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Timing chain change

  • Thread starter Thread starter max
  • Start date Start date
M

max

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Hello everybody ! As winter is outside , plans are to get busy .
Vette has a bit over 200000 km on the odometer , guess that
equals to 120000 miles . And the engine never been touched .
And it still has singlerow timing chain (TPI L98 ) , Dunno the right
name of it , but hope you understand what I mean :)
Gonna put "two row chain" in along with a appropriate gears .
Just thought maybe somebody can spare some advice on which manufacturer
to choose . Quality and cheapness are the key words , although it's pretty vital
component :) so to say , so I need something good .
I think it has gone exsessively long , especially after ZR1 11-inchers started to push the engine :)
And maybe some advices or nips on the process :) ?
 
I got a Rollmaster billet steel double chain with adjustable crank gear. It was $80 from Competition Products, PN CP1001. They claim it's race-strong (used in some Winston [Nextel] Cup engines).

Hint: You WILL have to remove the oil pan to do this job right. Be prepared. I wasn't...
[RICHR]
 
Max: Cool, I have my Vette in Lithuania... Not sure about the roller cam chains but check out Summit Racing or why not take a trip over to the speedshops i Stockholm?

Take down the oil pan is not a big deal, last time I did it it took maximium 1 h (pan down, new pump, pan up). The balancer is a bigger problem. To do it right you need a puller and a tool to put it back again. They are worth the money and you do not risk to damage the balancer (which might need a check up anyway after that driving distance).

BR

MN
 
To rrubel : Thanks , man . I'll be ready . I heard to pull off the gears you'd have to take the whole engine out. That's because of that frame beam in front of the gears .
To m nordin : wou , man, that's cool . Basically
neighbours.
I'll have to come some time , visit you , talk shop :)
 
Cool to see an Estonian and a Lithuanian exchanging tech help. Truly world-wide, this CAC...
When do you have to change this chain out, on average?
 
I am not sure about the interference with the frame problem. However, I have always removed the crank gear by taking a chisel and smacking it once. The gear shatters or splits and then you can pull it off by hand without having to use a puller. Doesn't take much to get it to split so don't get crazy with the size of hammer. Just a good solid smack should do it. If you have interference problem you should be able to raise the engine slightly by disconnecting the motor mounts and jacking up the engine. Don't jack directly on the pan. Put a 2 x 4 across the pan and jack against it. You might want to remove the Dist cap before moving the engine just to be sure it doesn't crack against the firewall. After the gears are off , let the engine back down on the mounts. You shouldn't have to remove the pan, just loosen the bolts to let the front drop enough to clear the tangs on the timing gear cover. Before you reinstall the timing cover, I always file the tangs down till they are square and then using new gskt, silicone the point at the tangs where the pan bolts up to the block. Roller timing chains are great and suggest you get it from SUMMIT. Just make sure it is a true roller chain. That means the individual rollers actually turn and are not solid. Some of the cheapy chains have rollers that do not turn on the roller pins. Also, your crank gear will come with three key slots, one is to retard the timing, one is straight up (stock) and one is 4 degrees advance. Be sure you install it correctly as to how you want the car to perform. I would also suggest you use new cam gear bolts and lock plate. They are cheap and it is good insurance. Do not under any circumstance use one of those chrome replacement timing gear covers unless you like oil leaks. I always soak the new timing chain in a coffe can full of engine oil prior to installation just so It is prelubed. On a stock chain and gears I use white lithium grease sparingly to prelube. Once you are done and everything is buttoned up, reset your timing. In about 500 miles check it again as chains do stretch sometimes and it will affect the timing by a degree or so. Have fun and hope I haven't confused you too much.


Randy:w
 
No , man . This is by far the best reply I could get . That's what I usually looking for when ask something . Good thing someone has a desire to help :)
thanks .
SUMMIT ? how to ctc them ?
 
vette-dude said:
I am not sure about the interference with the frame problem. However, I have always removed the crank gear by taking a chisel and smacking it once. The gear shatters or splits and then you can pull it off by hand without having to use a puller. Doesn't take much to get it to split so don't get crazy with the size of hammer. Just a good solid smack should do it.
Use a cold chisel and line it up with the keyway on the crank gear. Not much room to get a good swing but be persistent and you will line it all up. One good blow and it should split right at the keyway. As far as interference with the frame I had some when removing the balancer. I went to NAPA and got a bolt the same size as the one in the puller only about an inch or inch and a half shorter, make sure its a good quality bolt though, the one I got was grade 8.

:w
 
I went and borrowed a generic gear puller that worked in tight spaces. Didn't have any trouble taking the pulley off, though I did use an extension on the socket wrench that slipped through a loop in the power steering line (where it sits on that brace). Almost looks like it was put there specifically for that reason.
[RICHR]
 
Checked out Summit catalogue . Nice .
Just one question popped up :
Edelbrock EDL 7800 Chevy 262-400 ... except for the factory roller cam ..?
Does it mean camshaft with rollers ??
Means then not for me ...
And price is 46 bucks versus ,for ex , Lunati's 80$ for standard and 122$for billet ?
Billet , I guess is lighter ? I always thought that Edelbrock are pretty high end parts .
Also Cloyes offers for only 20 $
I always hated those catalogues :) so many stuff , feel yourself like a chick choosing clothes:)
Can anybody spill some light ?
 
Oh , I found Cloyes' "small chevy with factory roller cam " (CLO-9-3145) 80 bucks ...Is it for me ?:)
 
max said:
Oh , I found Cloyes' "small chevy with factory roller cam " (CLO-9-3145) 80 bucks ...Is it for me ?:)
I always like the Cloyes products. You might email Summit and ask them if they have a Summit brand Roller Timing chain at a lessor cost. They normally do and the part is usually a reboxed new popular brand item.

Hey Hrtbeat 1, Thanks for correcting the location of the chisel splitting technique. I completely left that out. Nice catch!!!

Randy:w
 
When I did mine I used the Cloyes Double roller I'm not sure of the part number but I think that is the one (CLO-9-3145).

When you go to crack the crank gear try to only hit it once you don't want to stress the crank bearings any more than necessary. Also make sure you don't gouge or nick the crank snout. So be careful, You will be really surprised how easily the gear will crack. I think mine took two whacks. The first one I didn't make a good strike on the chisel. The second one .... POP. It just slid off with finger pressure.

RICHR yea that little loop in that line must have benn put in for exactally that reason.

Vette-Dude No problem just trying to help.

:w
:pat
 
Max: I am actually not Lithuanian, just an expat Swede working here for the last 4 years. I do pass Estonia a couple times per year. Will let you next time or feel free to come here any time...

BR

Morgan Nordin
 

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