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Torque Thrust

F

Fast Ed

Guest
After much time spent making my 76 worthy for the road. I find that I have a severe case of Trailing arm disfunction. At 40 MPH it takes a right turn Clyde, and I don't mean Mabey!! it goes

Here is the question:

I am able to remove everything except the bolt on the offending bushing.
Short of using blue wrench what is the "trick" in getting it off

I tried everything short of a 90 Lb Jack hammer. :bang :bang You cannot get a straight shot at it with a brass drift and heat (although I did get it slightly hot) that close to the fiberglass makes me nervous.

Fast
 
S

sac001

Guest
Are you talking about the bolt that holds the forward end of the T-Arm to the Frame in the forward part of the wheel well?

Are you able to get the nut off, but just can't get the bolt out or what? :confused

Give us a few more details and maybe we can help.

On my 80, they unbolted easily, but had to be pushed all the way out of the T-Arm before the T-arm would come loose. (I pushed them in with an allen wrench while working the arm up & down to loosen the grip on the bolt.)

Steve :w
 
F

Fast Ed

Guest
Steve
Sorry it took so long to get back. had a problem

It is the most forward bolt in the wheel well attached to my trailing arm. I have about 1000lb of force on it now. Every thing else is disconnected. It may be rusted solid. I've been soaking it in pennetrating oil too.

Guess its time for blue wrench (torch it)

Ed
 
S

sac001

Guest
Ed,

Can you get the nut off, but not get the bolt out of the T-Arm, or is the nut rusted in place?

If the nut is rusted in place, cut it off with a Dremel, you'll want to replace that hardware anyway.

I know its a pain, but you need to get inside the gap on the inside of the T-Arm (the cavity where the brake line is supported) and get a wrench on the bolt head. When it came time to pull mine out, after disconnecting the T-Arm from the shock, spring and camber rods, I then removed the cotter pin holding the shims, and by working the t-arm up and down was able to pry the shims up and pull them out.

Hint, when you get one side of the shims loose where you can see the hole for the cotter pin, zip tie them together and mark them so you can size up the replacement shims in the same way. Also spring for new stainless shims for the re-install.

With the T-arm disconnected in the rear, and the shims removed, the arm should move up & down freely. Work the arm up & down while you work on the bolt. You should be able to tap gently on the end of the bolt until it goes inside the t-arm. At that point you should have enough of the bolt out to get a pair of vice grips or a flat screwdriver under the bolt head to try to pry it out. You will need to work the arm up & down while working on the bolt head. This was the most difficult part of the whole job for me.

Another hint, when reinstalling the new bolt, run a piece of thin wire through the cotter pin hole of the bolt, then through the channel and T-arm, pull the wire out the other side and pull the bolt into position. I used aircraft safety wire which worked really well, because the wire needs to be very thin and strong.

Let me know if this makes sense, and naturally keep us posted.

Good luck,
Steve :w
 

Yoda

Well-known member
Administrator
Joined
Oct 12, 2000
Messages
4,884
Location
Amarillo, TX
Corvette
1981 UL5
hey Steve... great graphic description ;)
BudD
:w
 
S

sac001

Guest
Bud,

Thanks, I only wish I had had a digital camera when I did it. This seems to be so common that the pictures would have helped. ;)

Steve :w
 
F

Fast Ed

Guest
Steve:
That all makes sense! I have the nut off W/O a problem and everything except the shims have been removed. Gotta replace the spring anyway. I had a wrench on the head of the bolt but it will not budge, I feel that if it can turn it even slightly should go from there.

Will remove the shims and advise when I return. Will be out of town for a week or so.
Thanx again ;worship
Ed
 

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