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Traction for 500hp 383 stroker

  • Thread starter Thread starter fasterthanu
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fasterthanu

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Quick question to all you out there... F-bodies can use traction bars, to help with traction... What do we have? I am about to get my 500hp 383 stroker in my 76vette. I have a 700R4 trans, 4.11 gear, without 500hp I think traction would be an issue, but with it... I have a 2500 stallspeed convertor. Any tricks for traction besides racing slicks? I know, feel your car out, but, I don't know of any traction bars for us, so any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Without slicks, I doubt you'll get 'good-traction', and if you do, you'll go home on a hook.
I saw a guy in April '03 with a ZZ502/THM400/3.90 drive-train with 29" x 11" slicks run 12.03 @ 112. On his second run, his busted the ring-pinion, and a half-shaft, on the mild launch.
Our chassis are built to 'handle'; not handle high HP.
 
You CAN make our IRS hook up but its gonna cost ya. Traction requires slicks or drag radials. However, what you should really be concerned with is preventing breakage of: ujoints, axles, spider gears and spindles. All of these can be addressed at a cost. 31-spline axles inboard and at the wheel spindle work great as do carbon fiber half-shafts. Spicer 1350 solid ujoints are minimum requirement and requires appropriate flanges to match. Heat treated spiders are nice. Check out www.tomsdifferentials.com for more info. A 6-link assembly will certainly help maintain wheel geometry and prevent the tires from squatting out on acceleration. Vette Brakes and Products makes a traction bar for our Vettes but uncertain about its performance.
 
fasterthanu said:
Quick question to all you out there... F-bodies can use traction bars, to help with traction... What do we have? I am about to get my 500hp 383 stroker in my 76vette. I have a 700R4 trans, 4.11 gear, without 500hp I think traction would be an issue, but with it... I have a 2500 stallspeed convertor. Any tricks for traction besides racing slicks? I know, feel your car out, but, I don't know of any traction bars for us, so any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
you can use a torque arm made by vette brakes and products. It bolts to the rear spring mount under the differential, and then bolts to a bracket you weld to the frame.
I have one on a 1967 coupe.
 
Rubber?

you can use a torque arm made by vette brakes and products. It bolts to the rear spring mount under the differential, and then bolts to a bracket you weld to the frame.
I have one on a 1967 coupe.

Do you have all rubber bushings, both to the crossmember and the one in front of the differential? (Or have you solid mounts or welded the crossmember to the fram?)
How does the torque bar work, whats the benefit and idea of this on a Corvette IRS?
 
I went thru the breakage and traction issues in my 1968 bbc corvette for years, I had a full roll cage and it was basically a race only car that I rarely drove on the street, I never found an independent rear suspension that 13.5:1 cpr 496 BBC roller engine could not twist into scrap, within weeks,... I did solve the problem, I fully tubbed the rear and installed a dana 60, from a hemi cuda after having in shortened , adding, upgraded axels, disk brakes and having the brackets modified, with a custom moded 4 link suspension. it cost a great deal to do that back in the 1970s, but it worked and it solved the problem, and allowed the car to use 11" wide 30" slicks.
now IM sure todays metal treatments and parts are far better but the fact remains that a solid rear axle and a 9.75" ring gear will always be stronger and less prone to damage from sudden shock loads and torque than anything you can do with similar quality parts to an independent rear.
so before you go dumping a great deal of cash into what may prove to be a bottomless cash pit, you might want to think thru the options.
now by todays standards the car was not that fast , but look at the records for pro-stock cars in the early 1970s, I was certainly NOT running a legal pro car but I was running times that were just a bit slower in the very low 10.25/135mpr range and doing it on a severly limited budget, with far less high tech parts in comparison, at a time when 10 second cars were darn fast.
remember todays racers have far more options in parts available, to them an much better parts


NO! I don,t know the guys whos car it is, but it sure brings back memories of my 1968 race vette....I only ran very low 10s at 135mph but it launched and sounded similar, you might want to track him down and ask for advice

http://challengevideos.com/video2.ph...d+pass+in+Zona
 
Do you have all rubber bushings, both to the crossmember and the one in front of the differential? (Or have you solid mounts or welded the crossmember to the fram?)
How does the torque bar work, whats the benefit and idea of this on a Corvette IRS?

Uhhh...this thread is 4-1/2 years old - probably won't get an answer from the original poster.... :eyerole
 
faith....!

Uhhh...this thread is 4-1/2 years old - probably won't get an answer from the original poster.... :eyerole

I know, its a long shot, but maybe he has the same e-mail adress and gets a note when somebody makes a reply on his thread?:D

My car is only a streetdriven low 12's C3 that I will try to stay as "corvett'ish" as possible, just now I trashed my rearend and will built a stronger one, and next winter a friend will mount a 9" in his race-vette and I will buy his 12 bolt rearend!
I have also bought Dragvettes 6-link system that I will mount soon, and it will be fun to see if there is any difference!
 

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