Trailing Arm Bushing Removal

[BLACK MOON]

Can someone walk me thru this process? I have purchased all new parts so damaging the current bushings isn't a problem.
Thanks all.

 

[IH2LOSE]

I ll explain if you tell me if you have purchased the tool to reinstall the bushing retainer

 

[IH2LOSE]

I ll explain if you tell me if you have purchased the tool to reinstall the bushing retainer

Do you have the trailing arm out yet

 

[67HEAVEN]

Can someone walk me thru this process? I have purchased all new parts so damaging the current bushings isn't a problem.
Thanks all.

Hopefully you'll find what you need here....
http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/htmlinstruct/41042.htm

Good luck. They can be nasty.

 

[BLACK MOON]

Yes the arms are out but I haven't bought any special tools.

 

[BLACK MOON]

Thanks Heaven. The instructions say do one at a time. I'd like to see someone do both at the same time.. Instead of drilling it out I think I'll use a sawzall and cut one end off then push the rest out.
Thanks everyone.

 

[68Roadster]

Eventually I will be doing this but every time you guys start talking about trailing arms the words "heat" and "sawzall" come up. Then I get a visual of Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor and another winter goes by and the trailing arms are still untouched.
I have reviewed my 68 Chassis Manual but there and here I have never heard of anyone putting antiseize on the bolt. Is this permissable?? I know you don't take these things out often but wouldn't it help come the next go-around??

Thoughts??

 

[BLACK MOON]

I guess that would help but I've never had a problem with the bolts. I refering to sawing the face of the bushing off. The bushings in the arms now only have 1,000 miles on them but I'm powdercoating the arms so some disassembly is required.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Thanks Heaven. The instructions say do one at a time. I'd like to see someone do both at the same time.. Instead of drilling it out I think I'll use a sawzall and cut one end off then push the rest out.
Thanks everyone.

:L I think they mean, don't pull both trailing arms out of an assembled car at the same time.

 

[JohnZ]

I've always put anti-seize on the trailing arm bushing through-bolt, to keep the bolt from rusting to the inner sleeve of the bushing; that's why so many guys have to resort to a Sawzall and ten hardened blades to cut the bolts out to get the trailing arms off. You only have to cut out one pair to remember that hassle.

You MUST use the special tool to compress the bushing and end washers in order to flare the end of the bushing sleeve on the retainer washer, or the bushing will be sloppy laterally regardless how hard you jam the shims in and tighten the through-bolt.

 

[68Roadster]

Sounds good....I understand about sawing off the bushing. Seems everyone else has a heck of a time getting the bolts out, I'm sure I will after all the time mine have spent in there.
Curious as to what powder coating of the arms goes for.....has to be better than the spray can.
Good luck!

 

[68Roadster]

Thanks JohnZ......we always use it on aircraft engines, don't really see it called for on the car's much.....

 

[BLACK MOON]

Thanks John. Is this tool expensive? Now I understand why the old ones are flared at both ends.

68Roadster. Powdercoating varies but I have an eone here and he is so reasonable. Shops wanted as much as $325 to sandblast and $300-500 to powdercoat my frameHe did both plus A arms plus blasted shafts and hinges, ALL for $300. Un believable price. I brought him a bushel basket today of brackets, clutch rods, brackets etc. Tomorrow Trailing arms unless I decide to leave them alone. That depends on this tool and how long it will take to get one.

 

[68Roadster]

www.volvette.com

$89.00 P/N TL15

 

[BLACK MOON]

Mid america has one for 49 and VPB has a kit for $60 that has poly bushings, sleves and tool. I'm sure about this tool though. Its different than others but looks like it would work.

www.volvette.com

$89.00 P/N TL15

 

[IH2LOSE]

Mid america has one for 49 and VPB has a kit for $60 that has poly bushings, sleves and tool. I'm sure about this tool though. Its different than others but looks like it would work.

Use the drill to remove the retainer Its the easeyest way.

I have the tool for loan for sure. the one that flares out the retainer.Purchase an extra set of retainer,s just in case. I messed up my first one.Do you have an account with UPS that you can send out a pick up tag? email your adress and I ship it to you and just refund me the shipping cost.

 

[BLACK MOON]

I really appreciate the offer. Where did you get yours. Is it the one with 2 plates that bolt together. I should have investigated this further before buying the bushing kits I have. The price for the VPB kit is good considering the tool comes with it. I'll email you.

What's everyone's opinion of poly vs rubber for the rear bushings?

 

[IH2LOSE]

I really appreciate the offer. Where did you get yours. Is it the one with 2 plates that bolt together. I should have investigated this further before buying the bushing kits I have. The price for the VPB kit is good considering the tool comes with it. I'll email you.

What's everyone's opinion of poly vs rubber for the rear bushings?

Ill post a picture of it tonight.I thought I paid just under $100.00 for it.I dont remember who I got it from.But unless your going to be using it all the time Dont purchase one.I used mine once and it now sits in the bottom of my tool box un-used

 

[BLACK MOON]

I'll take you up on your offer. PM coming.

 

[66427-450]

............I should have investigated this further before buying the bushing kits I have. The price for the VPB kit is good considering the tool comes with it. I'll email you.

What's everyone's opinion of poly vs rubber for the rear bushings?

With rubber bushings, you need to compress/hold the 2 halfs together, then flair the retainer (like John said), with poly you just press the 2 halfs in place, they don't "compress", then install and flair the retainer (no need to hold them while you flair like you have to with rubber).

I went with poly, because I'm trying to harness ~ 600 HP and am attempting to minimize geometery changes... during lanuch, etc., but rubber is just fine for an average street car (and it should be good for about 40 years, is that long enough for ya ?