Trailing Arm Job

[Whiplash]

Hey Bill,

I'm in the process of the same project on my 71. The picture you posted looks exactly like the way my car is set up. The bolts seem about an inch and a half farther forward than the spring when the spring is loose. I think what you have is normal.

Keep posting your progress. I'm following closely .

Not sure yet what I'm going to do about the bearings. I've got all the sandblast equipment to clean up parts and paint but not sure how I'm going to address the bearings and pressing in the front bushings yet. The rotors must have been serviced before because they aren't rivetted anymore. I think the spindle on one side must be new too because the wheel studs don't have the proper stamping on the ends.

Any info on assembly of the bearings and pressing of the bushings you can post would be great.

Your project looks like it is moving along. Good luck.

Whiplash

I've always wondered why the rear spring holes don't line up better with the spring bolts, the centerline of the bolt to the centerline of the hole in the spring measures about 1 3/4 out of alignment almost equally on each side of the car. I do know that the previous owner replaced the rearend cover and the spring but things look straight and the spring looks to be in the proper location on the rear end. It actually couldn't be made to go far enough forward to make these two things line up. Is this normal??? It sure doesn't look right to me but I can see any signs of any alterations in the car or any reason why this should be.

Bill

 

[Bill75]

Thanks for the tip on the French locks Gary, I hate impact wrenches for tightening stuff and won't use one unless I plan to cut the bolts off with a torch later! I have everything back in, it went pretty good. My daughter came over to help and we had a pretty good time doing it. Jacked the rear end assembly up with a floor jack and we balanced it to wheel it under the car. It goes up pretty evenly if the jack is in the right place. She put one bolt in the cross member while I balanced it the I put the other, crawled under the car and put the front hanger bolt and cushions in.
Getting the darn swing arm bolts thru the frame from the inside is not fun, her hands are smaller so she was able to get it thru, then we just worked the arm back and forth to get the bolt thru the other side, put the nut on loose and installed the shims.
I think the worse part was bolting up the half shaft flanges evenly so they would seat properly. With the shafts pulling on the rearend axles, the wheels don't like to turn freely. I had to put a bar across the wheel studs to turn them later with the spring attached.

Whiplash, I was glad you said something about your spring position being like mine, it's still the same after I reinstalled everything. I was a little difficult getting the bolts thru the swing arm and thru the spring on an angle like that but maybe when the weight of the car is on them they'll be better. Still looks screwey though. As far as assembling the bearings and bushings in the swing arm, I can't give you any advice, I had a Vette shop do it and was happy they did. Not knowing how to do this stuff and having to learn on the first one you do, usually is a problem; for me anyway. These guys spent several hours doing mine, assembling, then measureing the end play, then taking them apart and shimming them then reassembling and measuring again. Result was + - .001 end play. I'll be happy to take any photos you need whiplash.
More work tomorrow.

 

[GTR1999]

Glad to hear you have it back together Bill. It always helps to have an extra hand too. Now you need to get it aligned.

Whiplash,
If you need help, I've rebuilt several T arms and bearings.

 

[Whiplash]

Bill and Coupeman,

Thanks for the feedback and the offered help. I got the driver side half shaft and trailing arm assembly out of the car yesterday. Going to attack the passenger side today. Not sure if I'm going to go after the differential today or not. My wife got me a Kwiklift for Christmas and it's making the project a lot easier to access. The only problem I'm anticipating is getting the floor jack high enough to support the differential and cross member when I drop it, the bottom of the dif is about 40 inches off the ground right now .

I've been reading several articles on the rear bearings. Seems doable but I sold my press last year since it wasn't very good working on the front end. Part of me just wants to bring it to my local Vette guy and let him do it. The only problem with that is when I started working on this car I promised myself I would perform any/all labor possible and learn how to do things I hadn't done before. (you know the I did it myself syndrome)

Probably won't get into breaking down the trailing arms and bearing assemblies for another week or two. I'll keep following this post and drop you a PM if I'm stuck.

Bill, regarding the spring. I replaced the spring about a year ago just to make the car driveable. I was very surprised about how far off it was then as well. It doesn't seem to be that bad when the car is on the ground as the rear of the trailing arms move slightly back as they travel in their arch when you lower the car. It's nice to have a helper like you have. I'm pretty worried about how I'm going to get the trailing arm bolt in the frame with my fat hands and my 7 year old son is not quite there yet for complex assembly. Oh well, I'll deal with that problem when it comes.

Have a great weekend.

Whiplash

 

[GTR1999]

I can walk you through the job if you decide to tackle it. I'll PM you some info.

 

[Bill75]

Whiplash if you got the trailing arm out already that's pretty good. That was the worse part of the whole job, getting the bolt out of the bushing, had to cut mine out!!!!
I still think there's something fishey with one side of mine, the strut rod doesn't go into the arm assembly very good either, seems like it's on a slight angle. As far as the trailing arm bolt goes, I think you could use a long pair of waterpump pliers to reach in there and get it started.
Good luck

 

[Whiplash]

I can walk you through the job if you decide to tackle it. I'll PM you some info.

Thanks. I see I have a PM I'll read it later tonight. Got the second trailing arm out so I'm very happy. Can't get the rotor off however. It's been off before for sure since the rivets are already gone. Not sure if it's just frozen or if the parking break is holding it in.

Got real lucky with all the bolts too. Gave everything a good shot of penetrating oil last weekend. Seemed to be a big help. Even got the shock stud out. Turned the castle nut around and gave it a swift hit with a hammer and pop. No problem.

I'm pretty worried about getting the bolt back in for the arms when I go to reassemble. No way my fingers are going to make it in there and the break lines that are there need to be protected somehow. That's a problem for another day.

Next weekend is the breakdown of the arms. If I have time I'll sand blast them and paint them. Probably be another weekend first.

Thanks for your help. Slow but sure progress. I'll post some pics if I get a chance.

Have a great weekend.

Whiplash

 

[68Roadster]

Jon,
Call me if you need a hand......
No sense trying it if you think it can't be done by yourself.

Let me know and I can run over there.

Cee

 

[Bill75]

Speaking of the French.............What useful purpose do these Frenchlocks serve that a good lockwasher doesn't serve? I don't see them on my fanblade that rotates or my crankshaft pulley bolts or my alternator pulley!!:confused

 

[Whiplash]

Jon,
Call me if you need a hand......
No sense trying it if you think it can't be done by yourself.

Let me know and I can run over there.

Cee

Hey Cee,

Happy New Year. I may just take you up on that offer. I'm in research mode right now and if you've done this before the help would be great. You know me. I'm not afraid to tackle the job. I just like to have all the facts and the right tools.

I'm going to drop the differential this weekend, it's the only part left. I'm just trying to figure out how I can support it when I drop it. The car's up high on the Kwiklift and the jack won't reach for sure. Going to have to figure out some kind of platform to add to the jack to support the diff.

I'm going to tear down the trailing arms and sandblast and paint the parts that I can. I'll drop you a PM when I'm ready to reassemble.

Whiplash

 

[68Roadster]

Understand your problem....that chunk weighs a ton. I did all mine by myself, it was not fun.
I supported mine with a floor jack but I don't have the same problem you have using the Quiklift. Are you dropping the diff with the crossmember attached? If thats the case I would wrap the bigest cahins I could around it and the brace above it and pop the two crossmember bolts loose. Then we could manhandle it down. Also, don't be afraid to use a big crowbar when popping that x-member off. Mine took some good prying to pop loose. Sandblasted it and POR-15'd everything.
Don't hesitate to call, I'm getting tired of being housebound this winter.

Cee

 

[GTR1999]

You can remove it with the car on a Kwiklift. I use a tranny sissors jack from Harbor Freight works great. I have also used a wood box I made to fit under the differential nad on the jack. Diff weight 100 lbs so you don't want to drop it on your foot and have it crack on the floor.

PM your email and I can send you some pictures

 

[Whiplash]

Hey Cee,

Yes I'm going to drop it with the crossmember. Don't see how else to get it out other than the "trick" some mention about cutting the fiberglass in the trunk to get to the top bolts. Needless to say... NOT cutting the fiberglass.

The chains are a good idea. I also read about a spreader tool that can be used with your compressor. I think someone called it a duckbilled spreader?

I'm really hopeful it will break loose easily. Despite the general difficulty of this type of job everything has come apart nicely. I soaked everything in penetrating oil and nothing has given me trouble breaking free. The hardest part was the break lines believe it or not.

Not sure the plans for this weekend. It's going to be hit and miss with a bunch of projects. I'll drop you a line if I plan to work on it more than an hour or two at a time. I'd love the help/company.

Coupeman,

Sent you a PM. I agree 100%. Do not want to drop the diff on my foot or the floor Some people I know wouldn't mind if I dropped it on my head but that's another story .

Whiplash

Understand your problem....that chunk weighs a ton. I did all mine by myself, it was not fun.
I supported mine with a floor jack but I don't have the same problem you have using the Quiklift. Are you dropping the diff with the crossmember attached? If thats the case I would wrap the bigest cahins I could around it and the brace above it and pop the two crossmember bolts loose. Then we could manhandle it down. Also, don't be afraid to use a big crowbar when popping that x-member off. Mine took some good prying to pop loose. Sandblasted it and POR-15'd everything.
Don't hesitate to call, I'm getting tired of being housebound this winter.

Cee

 

[68Roadster]

I was able to get the top 4 bolts out and drop the diff and leave the crossmember up. I was able to get a ratchet and socket in there...wasn't easy but it was done. Then I safety wired the crossmember in place and popped it off with a huge crowbar.

Let me know.

 

[GTR1999]

Hi Guys,rather then highjack Bills thread here I suggest you start a new post.

You could cut out the floor to get to the rear end-seen it done a lot years ago,but it's better to drop it with the cross member. I use a pry bar and they come out without a problem. Norval uses chisels to act like a wedge this will work too. Gear puller will also work, Have a jack or support under the center to catch it.

 

[68Roadster]

Hi Guys,rather then highjack Bills thread here I suggest you start a new post.

No hijack intended......just a little rearend talk.

I'm assuming Bill has all his questions answered and we appreciate him sharing his experience with us. Others will benefit from our ramblings here as well.

To all a good evening!

 

[GTR1999]

I'm sure there was no problem. I figured if you started another post then others might see it better.

Good Luck

 

[like2drive]

It took me about 3-4 days seem like, to get the trailing arm out. What parts you can't get loose, forgetabadit! If you're sending it to somebody like Biars, or VanSteel, pack it up and they'll take care of it. If you're getting it done locally, let the shop use some cutting torch persuasion. Good luck, jim