Trailing arm

[Whiteshadow89158]

So does anyone know a secret to getting the trailing arm bolt out? i'de rather not use heat and the thing wont come out. I thought the cotter pin was goin to give me more trouble. ;help

 

[rgtrough]

Hey Shadow, what bolt? The one that holds the front of the arm to the frame? Mine was not a problem just tapped it out. Make sure you note the number of shims on each side.

 

[72VETTE454]

This is what I used:

Seems a bit brutal maybe, but I couldn't see another good way to do it. I didn't like the torch idea, especially since the passenger side is so close to the fuel line. Plus it worked pretty well.

 

[Curtis]

not much a good sawzall wont take apart.. my favorite power tool

 

[Whiteshadow89158]

ya i figured i would have to resolve to a sawzall. so there werent a set amount of shims on each side? shouldnt it be the same amount on all the cars?

 

[JohnZ]

ya i figured i would have to resolve to a sawzall. so there werent a set amount of shims on each side? shouldnt it be the same amount on all the cars?

Nope. The shims were provided to get the front of the trailing arms in position for correct toe-in on each side, compensating for production dimensional variation in the frame and suspension components. Most were generally in the same range, but the shim pack on each car was different in order to set rear toe precisely.

 

[74bigblock]

I used the Sawzall method also..... worked like a charm. Be prepared for it to take some time. There is a hardened steel sheath you have to cut through, plus the bolt.

 

[Whiteshadow89158]

I used the Sawzall method also..... worked like a charm. Be prepared for it to take some time. There is a hardened steel sheath you have to cut through, plus the bolt.

o great, how many blades did you go through?

 

[Art Jett]

Get the carbide blades and you should be able to get through each bolt with just one. Worked for me. Art

 

[Whiteshadow89158]

So i got the whole rear end out yesterday. i have to say thats one of the worst projects i have done haha. i went through 5 blades and it took hours. I got most of it disassembled today anticipating the arrival of the new parts next week. i'm having a problem taking off the shock mount that connects to the control arm. i;ve tried heat and a sledge and it wont budge. is this like the trail. arms where i have to cut the pieces off? i also tried a puller with no luck. anyone have a good technique? i'll try to load up pics this weekend. it cleaned up nice after being pressure washed.

 

[Art Jett]

There is a tool similar to the spindle knocker you can buy from the aftermarket vendors--Zip, Eckler's etc. etc. Screw it on the threaded end and pop it with a BFH.

 

[Whiteshadow89158]

i was going to order new mounts anyways so do you think i could get away with just cutting them at the bushing and knocking the tips out?

 

[Art Jett]

Don't see why notArt

 

[Whiteshadow89158]

Sweet:cool , sick car btw have you've put it on the dyno? How bitchen was the car after you put on the charger?

 

[Art Jett]

Thanks for the compliment! Don't have any dyno figures and to tell the truth--I would probably be dissapointed. It has way more power than it has traction so that is plenty good for me. What are you referring to as charger???

 

[Whiteshadow89158]

The intake manifold. It gives the engine a stout look to it.

 

[Art Jett]

Oh that. It is a tuned port system made by First Fuel Injection in Michigan. The runners and throttle body are quite a bit larger than stock for added performance, however, the computer system they sell with it is super basic. It is OBD1 from a 90 model Camaro. I had so much trouble out of mine I finally ripped the computer and all the wiring back out of tha car and purchased the Accel Thruster DFI system. World of difference. It's laptop programmable so you can program it real time while your driving the car. The elbow and hose from the throttle body are running down to an 85 C4 air cleaner assy. that I modified so it has a scoop coming out right in the middle of the spoiler under the front valance. That way I'm not getting hot air from the engine compartment and the faster I go, that much more air is pushed into the intake. "Ram air" I suppose?

 

[Whiteshadow89158]

sounds like a badass setup, get it on the dyno!

 

[Art Jett]

Naaaa. I really don't feel the need to know. It probably has less HP than I think anyway and that would be kind of a let down, you know? It has way more power than it has traction, so that's good enough for me. Thanks, Art

 

[Bolisk]

I know this is an old thread. . .but I have a question.

Where do you cut? Did everyone go throught eh rubber bushing between the to metal parts? This would mean that I have to cut through the hardened bushing tube, and the bolt. I've been going at this four what feels like hours. . .and I don't seem to be making a dent.

Also does anyone know if the factory origional shims were slotted or drilled? I was wondering if I can bang the shims out with a slide hammer.

Regards,
Jon