U Joint replacement

[Dcalebaugh]

What would be a reasonable cost for a shop to replace the u-joints on the drive shaft of my 86? I am assuming that's my problem as it clunks pretty bad when I put it into drive. I can't get under the car well enough to see if it's something else. I did notice that the u-joints on the other drive shafts(to the drive wheels)have grease fittings, so they have been changed once already. When I purchased the car the idle was high(1000 rpm)maybe that took its toll on the joints.

Dave

 

[Alloydude]

Hey Dave. I got quoted about $600. just for labor and another $140 for the parts to replace all 6 of the U-joints on my 84 so I elected to do the job myself and it's really not that difficult. Took me about 7 hours including a half hour beer break. Having access to a press or a good vice is very helpful as well. Good luck.

 

[Dcalebaugh]

Did you have to remove the exhaust to get the drive shaft out? It seems to be right smack dab in the way.

 

[Ken]

Did you have to remove the exhaust to get the drive shaft out? It seems to be right smack dab in the way.

Yes, you must first remove the exhaust in order to remove the driveshaft.

 

[jsinga]

A lot of clunk is just loosness in the carrier. It you have vibration you can't get rid of at high speed you can bet you need new u-joints in the half-shafts.
The u-joints in the drive shaft don't move since they are inside the C-beam. I changed the ones in my 200k mile 87 and couldn't see anything wrong with them! I don't think changing them made any difference at all.
To get the driveshaft out of the C-beam is a pain even if you take the exhaust pipe out.
The only reason I did change them is I had the ehaust off the change a plugged Cat.
Like everybody has said it's not anything you can't do at home in a Saturday. If you don't have one it's a good excuse get a floor jack! They decent big enough ones for way under $75.

JS

 

[Ken]

This will sorta give you an idea of what's in the way (click 'em to view larger):

You can see that obviously, the exhaust system must be dropped to remove the driveshaft.


Here you can see how once the exhaust is off, there is still stuff in the way - notice the e-brake cable:


A closer look at how I installed a safety loop (for drag racing):


As stated by the others, it's nothing you can't do yourself if one's health permits.

_ken

 

[Alloydude]

I only had to remove the Y-pipe after the cat. then snaked the drive shaft out leaving the C-beam in place. Installing it was a little more tricky. I used the C-beam to help me guide the slip yoke back into the tranys output shaft. I got lucky and nailed it on the first try. Individual results may vary

 

[Moonunit 451]

;stupid Probly the carrier or maybe some slop in the gears in the pumpkin. The U-joints frequently will sound like a chirp with each wheel rotation. I found that you really can't tell if the joints are going by checking for slop in the drive shafts in the conventional manner. Mine were tight and bad.

Don't let these guys fool you, this job is no picnic for a novice. I did the propeller shafts on a lift and it was fairly time consuming and you need some pretty heavy leverage to get them in and out as I recall. There are also some difficult angles getting on those 10mm(I think) bolts that secure the halfshafts. Tools, including 1/4" wobly's are needed.

Then, once you get em out, the proceedure for changing U-joints if you haven't done it before is quite specific and you can cause damage if it's not done correctly.

I'm certainly not trying to discourage you in any way, but I think it is important for you to have a clear idea of what's involved. If you can't get under your car, I'm thinkin' this could be over your head a little. I don't think the price is unreasonable if you have, say, more money than time. Some people do.

I will tell you this, these cars can easily break the bank, if you can't work on em yourself. Even then, they can sure be a challange on your heart and your wallet

Good luck to you and enjoy that Vette

Thanks for the pic's Ken, I need to install one of those safety loops while I've got everything torn up here:BOW

 

[Dcalebaugh]

Thanks for the replys. As I stated earlier the half shafts have grease fittings on the u-joints so they have been changed before. The clunk sounds like it is coming from the area of the rear of the tranny but it's tough to tell. I definately have a vibration that I have tried to get rid of through tire balancing, but it's still there. It starts at around 70. Under that it's smooth. I did notice a slight amount of movement in the right hand side rear wheel when off the ground and hands at 12 and 6. So I may have a wheel bearing issue as well, but the clunk is down right nasty. It seems much less pronounced when shifting into reverse for some reason and if I place the car into drive immediately after starting it up for the first time for the day it's almost silent.

Dave

 

[Ken]

If you plan on doing any kind of (repeated) hard launching of your Vette, it would be in your best interest to get rid of the u-joints with Zerk (grease) fittings and substitute those without fittings - they're stronger.

_ken

 

[Eagle85C4]

Due to excessive movement I had to replace the half shaft u-joints....1.5 hr per side. I found an easy way to remove them with the car on jackstands. Used a rubber mallet and sockets to remove the bad joints and install the new ones. I can elaborate on the removal and installation if you want...

Eagle

 

[TerryD]

hello all,
who sells the Spicer brand of u-joint? Are these the factory replacement(GM Part)? I have not been able to locate any vendors that sell the Dana Spicer brand

 

[Eagle85C4]

NAPA auto parts, a division of Dana Corp As well as Spicer.
Actually they started as Spicer...then became Dana...HQ in Toledo

 

[TerryD]

Thanks for the help guys!!

 

[Moonunit 451]

This will sorta give you an idea of what's in the way (click 'em to view larger):

You can see that obviously, the exhaust system must be dropped to remove the driveshaft.


Here you can see how once the exhaust is off, there is still stuff in the way - notice the e-brake cable:


A closer look at how I installed a safety loop (for drag racing):


As stated by the others, it's nothing you can't do yourself if one's health permits.

_ken

Thanks for the idea and the info Ken I was able to find the safety loop locally and did the fab work and install on Sunday. I did it a little differently than you did. placing both welded parts on the outside of the cage.

Then I put the driveshaft with the new Spicer U-joints in. Thanks for the info on those Eagle:BOW . They were around $30 for the set I believe.

As for the tranny, well that was a little more difficult, and off topic, but I will say for anyone doing the safety loop, the way that I did it requires some excesive forces when bolting on. I think I tightened the cage a hare in the process, making it quite difficult to mate the tranny with the cage again. Lucky I didn't get hurt when it came off the jack. Maybe that's why Ken did his the way he did

Had to wack one of your pics to get the post up Ken, Sorry. How do you get the thmbnails and link them to the larger photo's in your posts?

 

[Ken]

When you use the "Quote" function, take a look at the vbulletin code (similar to HTML </> code).

Try it by doing the quote thing again with mine, only this time cancel instead of posting a reply.

Of course, you could always follow our instructions. :L

_ken

 

[Moonunit 451]

Wow, that's a lot of info:crazy Thanks Ken, I'm gonna have to let that sink in a little:bash Well maybe a lot