u joints on half shaft

[crause]

I would like to replace all of the ujoints on my 75 just to know that they are all in good shape and how old they are. I have no idea about the ones that are in there now. My question is: can I remove the halfshafts by just removing the bolts on each end and taking it out? I really don't want to mess with the wheel/hub assembly unless I have to. Even if it should all be disassembled, is it possible to just remove the shaft part?

Andy

 

[GTR1999]

Put the car up on jack stands. Mark the strut rod position in case you have to move them out. Use the car jack to level the T arm and rremove the bolts from the rear end yokes and the french locks from the spindle flange,remove the 1/2 shaft. Buy new SS french locks they work better then the steel GM ones.
Use Spicer zerkless joints #5-799x. You can use a torch to cut out the old joints or a press. A vise might not have enough tork to pop them out.You have to use a backup plate for the joint flange or you will bend it.Look at it close as someone may already have bent it.

 

[crause]

Put the car up on jack stands. Mark the strut rod position in case you have to move them out. Use the car jack to level the T arm and rremove the bolts from the rear end yokes and the french locks from the spindle flange,remove the 1/2 shaft. Buy new SS french locks they work better then the steel GM ones.
Use Spicer zerkless joints #5-799x. You can use a torch to cut out the old joints or a press. A vise might not have enough tork to pop them out.You have to use a backup plate for the joint flange or you will bend it.Look at it close as someone may already have bent it.

I followed you up to the "put the car up on jack stands". Strut rod? T arm? french locks? where can I get SS french locks? does the dealer carry them or do I order them? Why do I want zerkless joints? don't I want to be able to greese them once installed as part of my pm. When I remove the half shaft do I need to support anything else that may drop down? I am not an idiot, just new to vettes so be patient.

Thanks,

Andy

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

can I remove the halfshafts by just removing the bolts on each end and taking it out?

I really don't want to mess with the wheel/hub assembly unless I have to. Even if it should all be disassembled, is it possible to just remove the shaft part?

Andy

The answer to both questions is Yes and Yes. I don't follow the other poster's idea that you may need to touch the strut rod and the need to jack up the spring. Both are unneccessary in getting the half shaft out.

The other suggestions to get zerkless u joints and the SS french locks are good ideas tho.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

where can I get SS french locks?

If they aren't in the catalogues, try Van Steel or Vette Brakes and Products.

 

[Robin7TFour]

CRAUSE, the zerkless u-joints will be stronger . the zerk fitting is a weak spot especially on hi-horsepower vehicles.
also, the stainless steel french locks will last longer since they won't rust on you.

good luck

ROBIN

 

[76okievette]

Crause, I plan on doing exactly the same thing on my 1976, the only difference is that I have a local Corvette shop that is going to replace the u-joints in the half shafts for me, I will remove and reinstall the half shafts and the shop will R&R the u-joints. It does not look to hard to remove the half shafts, be sure and make the location so that you can put them back in with the same orientation so that you don't throw the balance off. I have attached a pic form Corvette Central, its great for seeing all the parts and helps with discussion.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

be sure and make the location so that you can put them back in with the same orientation so that you don't throw the balance off.

Have the shop balance them while their off. I had the drive shaft joints replaced by a shop and the shaft balanced with the new joints. The whole thing was about $125 including the joints.

I'll do the half shafts next Winter when the car is down for the season.

 

[Ludigdrums]

How do you diagnose the condition of the current U joints?! I'm in the middle of putting on a Van Steel complete offset TA assebly, and had the outboard half shaft disconnected. It seemed to move easily in every which way...is that correct? Or should it be tight?

Thanks all!!!

- Jeremy

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Have the shop balance them while their off. I had the drive shaft joints replaced by a shop and the shaft balanced with the new joints. The whole thing was about $125 including the joints.

I'll do the half shafts next Winter when the car is down for the season.

Guys,

The half shafts were not balanced by the factory and there's no pressing need to have it done now (unless you believe that they have been Bubba'd in some way). Marking the position is also uneccessary as they were not specifically oriented one way or the other on the production line.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Good information. Is contrary to everything I've been told about drive shafts.

 

[GTR1999]

Hi Andy,
Just got back on and saw your questions to my post. Let me clear up my statements for you. I said to get the car on jack stands,you're ok with that. T arm is trailing arm= the part that the rear caliper is mounted to and bolts into the frame in front of the rear tire. The rear section of the T arm has the spring bolt in it.

Now the reason I said to mark the strut rods is sometimes you might have to move the T arm out a little,away from the differential side, if you do and don't mark the relationship of the strut rod the rear aligment will change. You might not have to do this but as least you'll be prepared for it. The reason I jack up the T arm is to level it so the 1/2 shaft doesn't bind when you remove it, it's just easier to remove that way. You do have to be careful that you don't pick the car up off the stands though.
The French locks secure the bolts the spindle flange at the wheel end of the 1/2 shaft.
THe GM locks are not as strong as the SS ones and they don't rust. THe trick I found to install them is to slightly bend the lock link(piece of the lock that goes between the bolts) so the head of the bolt clears the link. If you don't then the bolt will catch the link around 60 ft/lbs of torque and twist. They have to be torqued to 70 ft/lbs if I recall the spec correctly. Use some never-seize under the bolt head to help it slide on the lock.
The shafts do not need to be balanced,but do check for damage from the previous genius who tried to do this job like a regular driveshaft and damaged the shaft. The Spicer zerkless joints are better and the best you can use on your car. I had zerk joint crack in half under normal street driving-no racing. If you find the new joint doest line up with the retaining clips then it might be bent. Thats why you need to use a backing plate. If you find a bent one and you have to really hammer the clip in,don't use it. If the clip[ falls out driving the cap will follow and you'll be in for a surprise. I had it happen to a car last year,luckily the only damage was the joint.
You can all the parts from Bairs and great service too.
Lastly, I don't think you're an idiot. If you were you wouldn't be trying to work on your car without asking for help. I guess I just took it for granted you knew about the "terms" used on these cars. No offense was intended on my part.
Good luck and if you need soem pictures of things let me know your email address.

 

[crause]

Thanks Coupeman,

I appreaciate the time you put into your answer to my questions. It is because of great guys like you that this site is the best. I hope that I can be of assistance to others about the things that I have learned while working on my
Vette.

Andy

 

[GTR1999]

Anytime, I also just want to clarify after re-reading my post. The joint flange is what I was referrign to if the joint caps don't line up. The flange not the joint is what bends out of shape.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Good information. Is contrary to everything I've been told about drive shafts.

Note that I was referring to the half shafts only, not the main drive shaft.

 

[76okievette]

Great topic, it has made me think of one question, can I use the tire ramps and just drive the car up on them so its high enough to get under, or do I have to jack the car up and take the weight off the wheels to get the half shafts and the drive shaft out?

 

[Tom B Hargrove]

Crause, I see you are in Louisiana. How close are you to Monroe? If it's convenient, email me and come on over. I will be glad to help you with your u-joints. It's not too great a job, and we can do it in my shop. Let me know.

Tom

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Great topic, it has made me think of one question, can I use the tire ramps and just drive the car up on them so its high enough to get under, or do I have to jack the car up and take the weight off the wheels to get the half shafts and the drive shaft out?

For the driveshaft yes, you could do that. For the half shafts the answer is no, because they form the upper link of the rear suspension.

 

[76okievette]

Thanks, I plan on doing all three at the same time so I will just jack her up. I appreciate all the info.

 

[crause]

Tom Hargrove,

Thanks for the offer. You are 3 or 4 hours from where I live. I jacked the vette up this week and did a closer inspection. Somebody must have changed all of the ujoints in the very recent past because they all look new with new zerk fittings. Happy about not having to do that job. I will keep your offer in mind if i come on a really difficult job. My email is listed on this website.
Andy