universal joint replacement

[Key West Jack]

I have a major vibration in the rear end of my C4 when I accelerate that I attribute to a bad U-joint. Has anyone replace one? If so are there any particular things I should be concerned about? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[grumpyvette]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33497

you might want to pick up one of these for your garage, the first time I replaced the U-joints in my vette the local machine shop was going to charge me $20 just to remove and replace EACH u-joint PLUS the cost of the U-joints if I REMOVED delivered and replaced the HALF shafts and DRIVE SHAFT, thats 6 u-joints x $20 or $120, the damn PRESS costs very close too the same amount and FROM THEN ON I could replace them myself , have a press in the garage and not spend any more money, to me thats a TOTAL NO BRAINER

heres helpfu info

http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/index.html

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/december/u-joint/u-joint.asp

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/november/arms/arms.asp

http://www.micro-controls.com/article-ujoints.html

http://www.micro-controls.com/cartools-ujoint.html

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/faq.html

http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/index.html
first Ill point out that the U-joints made in china are JUNK, so get the AMERICAN MADE u-joints WITHOUT the grease nipples as that design is stronger
next , many machine shops charge $15-20 to remove and instal EACH u-joint with a press, thats 4 u-joints on the half shafts and two on the drive shaft (TOTAL 6) so it can EASILLY run you $90-120 in just labor IF YOU PULL THE SHAFTS and REINSTALL THEM (99% of the LABOR) and have a shop remove/reinstall the u-joints themselfs, thats INSANE if you are doing it on a regular basis, when you can buy a decent press for about the same cost as a single series of replacements

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=33497

this is a differant year but most of the info applies

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005...nt/u-joint.asp

http://www.micro-controls.com/article-ujoints.html

http://www.corvetteamerica.com/cf/di...ategoryid=X935


basically youll need a shop manual or similar instructions like the HAYNES manual,

you jack up the rear, place the frame on sturdy jack stands, remove the tires and youll need a long 1/4" extension with a universal and a 10mm socket to reach the straps retaining the u-joints on the inner ends and a shorter extention and box end wrench for the outer ends and the use of the floor jack to reduce the pressure on the rear suspension as you work on each side

BTW once you get familiar with the process you can replace ALL six u-joints in UNDER 4 hours, only need to do the 1/2 shafts, great youll complete that in under 2 hours with practice (WITHOUT AIR TOOLS) (under an hour WITH THEM)

 

[tyrel]

Grumpy has posted some great information, and I'd like to add that this is a fairly easy repair to do yourself. At a certain point, once you get everything unbolted, you just pull on the hub and the halfshaft can easily be pulled out. And as long as you're in there, might as well do both u-joints on each halfshaft.

I'd also like to say that I've had two u-joints go bad within the last five years, and each time there was no vibration as you describe, but there was a lot of squealing at low speeds, since the bearings were shot.

 

[davec0_17]

I agree with tyrel, I'm not sure the vibration is cause by bad u-joints. I would think some noise would be heard. I used a big vise that was donated to me to press the u-joints. Worked at good as the high price press.

 

[Key West Jack]

I think noise and vibration mine is from the pilot (drive) shaft universal joint (rear).

 

[Black Bart]

I had a vibration in mine about three years ago and it was rear wheel bearing
Check the bearing for play before you remove the half shafts.
I have changed a lot of U joints with nothing more than a large vice just find a socket that fits and push them out. If you have to remove the half shaft you will need a 55mm torex socket if you don't have one then buy it before you start because you will need it.

 

[Key West Jack]

I found out my problem was in the torque converter. Aparently it was cavitating do to the transmission being in overdrive at too low an RPM. I had the fluid flushed via a pruge and replaced. Bottom line the problem is gone. I don't know if this is a quick fix and the problem is going to come back. For now it runs great.

 

[badabing9]

......why would you need a press?....i have been puting in u-joints for years w/o one.

take an old socket, place it on the u-joint after supporting shaft ON a vice with enough of an opening to let the u-joint fall through the open vice jaws. after removing any retaining clips, beat 'em out. installation is basically the same way.

 

[davec0_17]

Glad you found the problem and are back to enjoying cruising!otfl