norvalwilhelm
Well-known member
As a refresher I rewired by head light by installing relays next to the lights and run the main power cable directly off the alternator. This increases the voltage to the lights and at the same time takes the load off the light switch and the dimmer switch. They should last forever.
I controll my fuel pumps and twin fans manually so I can run either of them , both or none at all. I also have a very good voltmeter hooked to the fuse block monitoring voltage.
I found that running just the fuel pump I had slightly over 14 volts. As I turned on each fan the voltage would drop about 1/2 volt, same with the lights pulling voltage.
By the time the lights were on, both fans running along with one fuel pump in idle conditions the voltage was down to about 12 volts and while running with traffic as low at 13.
Since installing the relays and bypassing the lights through the fuse block I find my voltage much more stable at 14 volts.
If I pull on the lights the voltage gage doesn't move, flipping between high and low while watching the gage doesn't produce any movement in the gage whatever.
While driving down the road I turned the lights off and on while watching the gage and it is rock steady at about 14 volts.
I also find the fans seem to pull the voltage down less then before and the voltage never drops below 13.5 idling with the fans and lights on.
I do have a high amperage alternator but running the lights through the regular wiring did draw voltage down.
As for light performance it was not dark enough to notice any improvement.
I think it is a good modification that cost under $20 bucks and a little time.
The hood has to come off to do this.
This is a close up of the relays and fuses.
This is where I mounted it so it was close to the wiring harness and easy to splice into the existing harness without long extensions
I controll my fuel pumps and twin fans manually so I can run either of them , both or none at all. I also have a very good voltmeter hooked to the fuse block monitoring voltage.
I found that running just the fuel pump I had slightly over 14 volts. As I turned on each fan the voltage would drop about 1/2 volt, same with the lights pulling voltage.
By the time the lights were on, both fans running along with one fuel pump in idle conditions the voltage was down to about 12 volts and while running with traffic as low at 13.
Since installing the relays and bypassing the lights through the fuse block I find my voltage much more stable at 14 volts.
If I pull on the lights the voltage gage doesn't move, flipping between high and low while watching the gage doesn't produce any movement in the gage whatever.
While driving down the road I turned the lights off and on while watching the gage and it is rock steady at about 14 volts.
I also find the fans seem to pull the voltage down less then before and the voltage never drops below 13.5 idling with the fans and lights on.
I do have a high amperage alternator but running the lights through the regular wiring did draw voltage down.
As for light performance it was not dark enough to notice any improvement.
I think it is a good modification that cost under $20 bucks and a little time.
The hood has to come off to do this.
This is a close up of the relays and fuses.
This is where I mounted it so it was close to the wiring harness and easy to splice into the existing harness without long extensions
