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valve picture

baxsom

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 29, 2008
Messages
388
Location
Cocoa Beach FL
Corvette
72 454 convertible, 2000 C5 Z51
i saw a pic here once that the picture of a head and showed which valve was intake and which was exhaust. i cant figure out how i found it so i can take another look. will someone point me in the right direction as to which valve is intake and which is exhaust.

thanks
 
thanks
when you are just looking at the head which is the intake the left or right per cylinder
 
As you view the head from the top.
The valve order is:
1 Exhaust
2 Intake
3 intake
4 Exhaust
5 Exhaust
6 Intake
7 Intake
8 Exhaust

Small diameter valves are exhaust, larger ones are intake.
You can see from the side that the Exhaust ports are on the ends of the heads with two in the center.
 
As you view the head from the top.
The valve order is:
1 Exhaust
2 Intake
3 intake
4 Exhaust
5 Exhaust
6 Intake
7 Intake
8 Exhaust
It's early Pete,But I think if you flip the head and Look at it from the bottom it will be the same configuration!!!:boogie:boogie:boogie :D
 
It's early Pete,But I think if you flip the head and Look at it from the bottom it will be the same configuration!!!:boogie:boogie:boogie :D
It's TOO early to flip a head, unless it's Aluminum, and mine aren't.;):boogie
Besides that, they are bolted on.
 
More like you can go to a junkyard, look down at a rusty head and note two sizes and remember your basic physics.

Hot air travels faster so a smaller valve is only needed.
Cold air travels slow is why you need a bigger opening to move a slower thicker moving air.
 
wow
thanks for that.

i put new pushrods and rockers in my old ford and it was a lot different so now i am very glad i asked.

thanks again
 
just for what its worth.
if you go by the method of the exhaust valves line up with the manifold
my heads go
drivers front to back EIEIEIEI
passenger front to back IEIEIEIE

also apparently this bubba guy gets around because he attacked my heads as well.

i got to looking and the pushrods and guide plates are 5/16.
from what i understand 5/16 pushrods are for smallblocks.
they are the right length for the proper oem rocker ratio but too narrow.
summitracing recommended that i buy actual big block guide plates with the proper 3/8 pushrods.

Do I just unbolt the rocker studs and replace the guideplates.
looks easy enough but i am wary to unbolt the rocker studs.



just wow.
 
intake valve is the larger one if that helps

Erm, I'm sure this is correct as everyone else in this post has said that the intake is the larger of the two (and I haven't looked at the AIM yet)... but if you think about it... why?

You'd have thought that the volume of gas entering the cylinder would have been significantly smaller than when it is ignited, i.e. when that liquid fuel has been converted to a gas, and the temperature of the gas increases significantly - so should the volume.
Is my physics deceiving me... or am I missing something fundamental?? :W

:beer
 
Erm, I'm sure this is correct as everyone else in this post has said that the intake is the larger of the two (and I haven't looked at the AIM yet)... but if you think about it... why?

You'd have thought that the volume of gas entering the cylinder would have been significantly smaller than when it is ignited, i.e. when that liquid fuel has been converted to a gas, and the temperature of the gas increases significantly - so should the volume.
Is my physics deceiving me... or am I missing something fundamental?? :W

:beer

When the intake valve opens, atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi) pushes the cold ambient temperature intake charge into the cylinder. When the exhaust valve opens, the still-expanding super-hot exhaust gases, under extreme pressure, are pushed out by the upward movement of the piston. Essentially, the incoming charge has very little help, and the outgoing exhaust gases have LOTS of help. :)
 
I'll try an attempt on the physics of the cylinder fill. Say in the abstract, electricity is as fast as air. Say if lightening travels to earth as fast as lightening, well, it needs to travel at that speed in the air is the air can both keep up and is the fastest path is the electricity. Do we have that basic concept you can sorta see in the air?

So we are watching/listening to an F1 engine scream at 18,000rpm down the streets of Monaco. How fast do you think that air can travel? You know how much pressure is in that chamber when the intake closes? How about 14.7PSI is all there is on the close.

Slow down the speed of the engine and stop the crank positions. The piston is at TDC (top dead center). What is the cylinder fill at this point is the crank is at TDC remember. You better act like the speed of electricity to be on the same page as me is my physics ride in the absolute. I cannot change a thing no matter how many people you read and their theory to the way a 4-Stroke Otto-cycles.

You call the ball on your physics is how I work my 4-Stroke engine is call the ball on mine is thank you very much. I am going to ask you now how many pounds per square inch is the crank at TDC is as dead as a door nail? If you said, 14.7psi, I am going to say I agree with you.

I am going to physically spin the crank as fast as I can and like think like this is that piston is going to suck the full volume of air to that cylinder as fast as 18,000rpm and say we hold that crank at BDC. Do we agree at some point it stops at BDC? Is all that volume she wrote is at the bottom?

What is the pound per square inch of that cylinder being filled is now at BDC? If you said 14.7psi, I am going to agree with someone out there and say, "Absolute BDC Yes it is 14.7as if I could pee in my eye PS Eye slipped up, sorry. Back to serious....

Stand on the piston and look up at the big intake valve cause we are going to close the deal on the cylinder fill. Now you are heading fast as gas is light me up not yet. Have we closed the valve? No. Are we still climbing and now are we moving all that we sucked on the volume fill at BDC is we are on the way up to empty it out?

Wait.. If say that valve opened and there was either a vacuum or a pressure going on, isn't that intake valve still open? OK, so if we are on the electric stroke on the choke me for saying this to quantify over and over is did we not agree about BDC and TDC being both at 14.7 with the intake valve still open? So if the piston is heading up and is going to pump out what it sucked in? Could we agree that if at bdc and tdc that the valve is open no matter what is that cylinder is still at 14.7 on the move is no pressure changed is the valve is still open and now there is a push of air heading out the cylinder? or did the valve close on a constant vac/press remains constant till closing. Could you start the first stroke to the 4 strokes is the intake?

We did not compress anything is the intake is still open and that is a neutral balanced fill is stable at the speed of air if it travels at 18K and stops dead on those strokes too, are not all the fills no matter the speed, 14.7? That sorta makes sense to me if not to you is I might be on the physics side and you might have your own theory how you come up with fuel ratios as a baseline.

So, are we back to agreeing about the physics that the valve did not change at closed or open (is still open) is we still are at 14.7psi (open valve) is now you better think this one out or you become the racing back marker, adjusting those push rods and taking advantage of moving air speed faster on either valve opening is the fundamental basic bottom line is this is it in a nutshell is we are almost done.

Now, take a breath and stop. Did you take a suck in? Did you stop (closed the valve is stopped) breathing and is that now 14.7 is you are not pushing air out, nor breathing air in; so did that valve close on 14.7 is you better sleep on it. :ohnoes :boogie


:bash ;shrug << I do not make the physics up. I just follow it and work off the valve setting now is play with the timing once the cams are dialed in on the lobe split settings is base valve open/close. Now open the intake sooner so the 14.7 speeds in quicker is all you are doing to that one 14.7 ambient side.
Yeah, and you want those big rockers like they suggested is they open quicker is the bigger size is the old Smokey Yunick trick with the 409 rockers on the 350 heads.

So, say we are up in elevation and there is less air and we need less fuel for less air. When the valve closed up in elevation... What was the final pounds in fill was that mountain is either down at sea level is name that number :confused ;shrug

Yeah, and I sure am a Poser at whatever vette site is the same as speedtalk site my ride... HA! :cool :puke

Rob? :w From, The Enveloper who is 17 websites Trophies strong. I'll speak the way I want is thank you very much is password anytime. :chuckle
 
just for what its worth.

i got to looking and the pushrods and guide plates are 5/16.
from what i understand 5/16 pushrods are for smallblocks.
they are the right length for the proper oem rocker ratio but too narrow.
summitracing recommended that i buy actual big block guide plates with the proper 3/8 pushrods.

Do I just unbolt the rocker studs and replace the guideplates.
looks easy enough but i am wary to unbolt the rocker studs.
just wow.

5/16 pushrods are standard with a big block Chevy that has a hydraulic cam.
 

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