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VATS again

Drjohn

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
119
Location
Bowling Green, KY
Corvette
1991 White Convertible
Okay, it happened again. I got a no-start condition and had to wait for the VATS to reset. I didn't think it was going to happen and had called for a rollback. I was within sight of the Chevy dealer too....

While waiting for the tow, I got it started.

The previous owner (who I increasingly have n urge to kick his a$$) apparently installed a VATS bypass, since the key has no resistor bean in it and starts without incident (except twice now).

I'm wondering if I get keys with the correct resistor and leave the bypass in if it will solve the problem, or make it worse. Anybody have an opinion?
 
Probably has a bad connection at bottom of steering column!! they'v by passed with a resister under pannal at lower dash!!:upthumbs junk!!
 
bypass is far more dependable than key/pellet, unless it was sloppy work.

with bypass installed, resistor(pellet) in key has no function
 
Thanks.

This is an annoying problem.

I'll need to crawl in there and track it down I guess.
 
speedmaster4 said:
bypass is far more dependable than key/pellet, unless it was sloppy work.

with bypass installed, resistor(pellet) in key has no function

My key has no pellet whatsoever, which makes me suspicious of the job they did on the install. I'm concerned that if I get a key with the pellet, it won't work anyway.
 
once you install bypass,any spare key you get wouldnt need the ultra-bucks resistor/blank...but new fangled key duplicating machines wont allow key with pellet into keyhole,so they cant make a $1.49 spare key even though they have blanks that will fit into car and otherwise work....solution=knock out the pellet....cant restore vats now but if it wasnt right before why go back.

some guys just cram the appropriate resistor into the connector and poor/unreliable contact is made....best deal is to get upper half of connector from junk yard (lots of gm cars use same connector and most are much easier than vette to get to the connector--look for key/pellet in igniton), get couple inches of wire above connector and solder (radio shack guy will do if you cant) the resistor to your "new" bypass..insulate with tape..plug &play
 
speedmaster4 said:
once you install bypass,any spare key you get wouldnt need the ultra-bucks resistor/blank...but new fangled key duplicating machines wont allow key with pellet into keyhole,so they cant make a $1.49 spare key even though they have blanks that will fit into car and otherwise work....solution=knock out the pellet....cant restore vats now but if it wasnt right before why go back.

some guys just cram the appropriate resistor into the connector and poor/unreliable contact is made....best deal is to get upper half of connector from junk yard (lots of gm cars use same connector and most are much easier than vette to get to the connector--look for key/pellet in igniton), get couple inches of wire above connector and solder (radio shack guy will do if you cant) the resistor to your "new" bypass..insulate with tape..plug &play

Thanks.

I AM having trouble getting any cheap keys made. I need to get one and punch out the bean.

I guess I need to sniff around all of my connections and see why this is happening.
 
the 'cheap' key wont even have the pellet to start with...just need to get the key guy to spend about 36 seconds of his 'valuable' time looking thru relatively few gm key variants for correct end and side profiles

the dummies at wal-mart probably cant handle it...but most hardware store key guys or any real locsmith will take one look at your key and grab the rite new one off th rack
 
I'll give it a try

I only have one key. that makes me nervous.
 

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