cali navy
Member
I really need some help with this one. I'm a little burnt out on this issue.
I'll start with the previous problem and my fix that might have caused the major issue.
I have had a lot of delay starts recently. The starter would extend the starter, but it would take half a second for it to completely engage and turn the engine over. Once it engaged, the car started immediately without hesitation. If the car was hot, it would not engage at all. Sounds like the solenoid, right? Well, when I run a jump wire or a push button directly from the battery/primary starter cable to the trigger terminal, it would start every time no problem. So, I figured that the issue would be the trigger wire. After inspecting it, I found that the last six inches or so were burnt and even exposed in a few spots. This was caused by having long tube headers and the wire falling out of where it was supposed to be. So, I cut the damaged section off and soldered in a nice new piece of wire with a solid terminal contact. Please trust me when I tell you the connection is solid. It's my job to do this kind of thing.
After I completed the repair and inspected everything else, I went to start the motor. This is the issue.
When the key is turned to "ON", everything operates normally. However, as soon as I turn the key to start, I hear a "pop" from the driver's side of the engine bay and I lose all power... EVERYTHING! The only way to get power back to the car is to pull the negative terminal and let the ECM reset. After I connect the battery again, all power comes back. That is, of course, until I try to start again. It happens every time without fail. The same thing happens with 3 different starters and the battery tests good. If I disconnect the trigger wire from the starter and try to start, I do not lose power. The car doesn't start (obviously), but I don't lose power.
It seems as if the ECM is detecting a high amperage drain and kills power to protect the system. That's good and all, but I need to find this problem. So, here are my ideas.
It can't be the starter. Three different ones and same issue.
Battery tests good voltage, but I don't have a load tester.
Battery cable corrosion? But wouldn't this cause hard starts? When the starter engaged (before) it spun up without any problem.
Trigger wire corrosion? Definitely possible.
One big thing I want to do is replace the primary battery cable and the trigger wire.
Unless I'm mistaken, the primary battery cable goes straight to the starter. Correct?
I do not have the FSM anymore. There was rain and leaking and it became pulp... I need the path for the start signal. I know the key to the allow relay (which is brand new) where it comes out as a yellow 10 ga wire. I know it has to go thru the firewall and to the starter. I need to know what plug it uses and which pin it comes out of. It's purple on the starter end. Does anyone have a diagram, picture or schematic with pinout for that wire? I haven't had much luck finding it online.
I appreciate any information or ideas for a fix. If you have had this problem before, I would really like to hear what your fix was.
EDIT ***********
I almost forgot. No codes.
1991 L98...well, it used to be an L98.....
I'll start with the previous problem and my fix that might have caused the major issue.
I have had a lot of delay starts recently. The starter would extend the starter, but it would take half a second for it to completely engage and turn the engine over. Once it engaged, the car started immediately without hesitation. If the car was hot, it would not engage at all. Sounds like the solenoid, right? Well, when I run a jump wire or a push button directly from the battery/primary starter cable to the trigger terminal, it would start every time no problem. So, I figured that the issue would be the trigger wire. After inspecting it, I found that the last six inches or so were burnt and even exposed in a few spots. This was caused by having long tube headers and the wire falling out of where it was supposed to be. So, I cut the damaged section off and soldered in a nice new piece of wire with a solid terminal contact. Please trust me when I tell you the connection is solid. It's my job to do this kind of thing.
After I completed the repair and inspected everything else, I went to start the motor. This is the issue.
When the key is turned to "ON", everything operates normally. However, as soon as I turn the key to start, I hear a "pop" from the driver's side of the engine bay and I lose all power... EVERYTHING! The only way to get power back to the car is to pull the negative terminal and let the ECM reset. After I connect the battery again, all power comes back. That is, of course, until I try to start again. It happens every time without fail. The same thing happens with 3 different starters and the battery tests good. If I disconnect the trigger wire from the starter and try to start, I do not lose power. The car doesn't start (obviously), but I don't lose power.
It seems as if the ECM is detecting a high amperage drain and kills power to protect the system. That's good and all, but I need to find this problem. So, here are my ideas.
It can't be the starter. Three different ones and same issue.
Battery tests good voltage, but I don't have a load tester.
Battery cable corrosion? But wouldn't this cause hard starts? When the starter engaged (before) it spun up without any problem.
Trigger wire corrosion? Definitely possible.
One big thing I want to do is replace the primary battery cable and the trigger wire.
Unless I'm mistaken, the primary battery cable goes straight to the starter. Correct?
I do not have the FSM anymore. There was rain and leaking and it became pulp... I need the path for the start signal. I know the key to the allow relay (which is brand new) where it comes out as a yellow 10 ga wire. I know it has to go thru the firewall and to the starter. I need to know what plug it uses and which pin it comes out of. It's purple on the starter end. Does anyone have a diagram, picture or schematic with pinout for that wire? I haven't had much luck finding it online.
I appreciate any information or ideas for a fix. If you have had this problem before, I would really like to hear what your fix was.
EDIT ***********
I almost forgot. No codes.
1991 L98...well, it used to be an L98.....
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