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Warming up car.

Well, I usually wait for the coolant temp to get out of the "LO"state, and take off around 105F-110F. From my understanding that is when the EGR temp goes into effect and is safe. Correct me if Im wrong
 
With the exception of my 71 BB Coupe, I fire the engines, let 'em run for 10-20 seconds then drive.

My 71, has a big cam and a four-barrel carb. Even with the choke, it takes a little idle time before that car will run reasonably well enough to drive. I let it run for a minute or so before driving.
 
Generally, I'm with Hib on this also as my normal get started and then go routine takes 10-20 seconds.
However, when the temps are below freezing, I switch to the oil temperature display and wait for it to come up to 40 or so before driving off - of course this is only if the car has been sitting outside in the cold for a long time and the oil is very cold.

Even if I do drive off shortly after start up, I really try not to hammer it until it's a lot warmer - oil pressure starts coming down at idle, etc.

Exception: my Volt which does seen to care.
 
I think it's recommended to drive the car slow till it gets warm, remember reading that somewhere.
 
I'm not sure I have to wait, but it gives time for the A/C to cool off the car! :)
 
What has EGR got to do with anything?
It is only operational once you get over a certain speed and other conditions are met; doesn't work at idle or WOT

I'm with Hib , start and drive off.Driving the engine will warm it up faster than idling

Lol the EGR has a lot to do with driving, If temps are not adequate, you may cause Cylinder head damange. Also heating up the viscosity of your oil does a better lubricating job for rods, pistons, cam, ect. they go hand in hand
 
EGR is not coolant temperature dependent, thus it makes no sense to wait until EGR enables to drive a car after a cold start.

I think the OP asked about warm-up time but if the issue is how soon can you run the engine hard, typically I wait until I see 150° oil temp. before I'll use wide-open throttle or high rpm

Also, "Tuna" mentioned cold weather, which I, also, hadn't considered.

I run 10W30 oil in everything and when the ambient is below zero, I also wait until I see the engine coolant temp come off the peg before I drive.
 
Once again EGR has nothing to do with the topic being discussed here ;engine warm up


If you understood how EGR works then you would know it LOWERS the combustion chamber temps

Some education
Emissions

I know how the EGR works. Some say you should wait 2-3 minutes to let your car warm up. And some say only about 30 seconds, but not to lay on the throttle until the fluids temps are in the low to middle 100's.
The EGR temp switch activates the EGR at 175F, so for some people, whom like to take extra care, like their car warmer so everything is functioning.
New Motor oil is so thin, you dont need to wait longer than 30 seconds for a warm up. But most are still starting and warming up like the old days, so they sit for 2-5 minutes.
 
IF above freezing I'll wait maybe 30 seconds and go, with easy driving until the temps. come up.
IF below freezing I'll wait maybe a 1min. or two. Then go.

At the track I like oil temps. above 150. I need my manual fan switch to keep the coolant temps. reasonable while waiting in the staging lanes. LT1's seem to like between 170-190. I've ran my best at those coolant temps.

Engines always warm up faster when driving them, with modern computer controlled engines, warming them up is a thing of the past. Unless you NEED a warm/cool cabin then NO reason to warm a car up.

I love how the new electric cars can pre-condition the air inside while still attached to the cord. Extends range, not sure if the Volt Hybrid does this but I know the Nissan Leaf does. The Leaf requires no warm up. :eyerole
 
I've always waited until 160-180 degrees of temperature for the coolant.


Then again, I'm usually not in a rush when I take the toy cars out.
 
As for me I start the car fasten seat belt put in gear and go. There are more things to warm up then just the engine so I drive with reason until I see about 125 to 150 on oil temp. That tells me the transmission oil is also warming up and the diff. along with the wheel bearings etc. As mentioned earlier the viscosity of the oil is important. If you live were it gets below zero like I do then use a 5w10 oil. I have one exception to not idling the car and that is if the temp is 5 to 10 below I will idle the car until the thermostat opens. The reason for that is with the air coming up off the frozen ground into the radiator I want to be sure to have heat in the radiator core so it wont freeze with the extreme cold air from the ground going over it.
 
The reason for that is with the air coming up off the frozen ground into the radiator I want to be sure to have heat in the radiator core so it wont freeze with the extreme cold air from the ground going over it.

Why would the radiator freeze?

I find this discussion interesting given that I live near Montreal where our definition of 'cold' is much different than you guys down south. Normal practice here is start the engine, seat belt on and go. Drive gently until temps are at normal levels. No sitting around wasting gas.
 
Why would the radiator freeze?

I find this discussion interesting given that I live near Montreal where our definition of 'cold' is much different than you guys down south. Normal practice here is start the engine, seat belt on and go. Drive gently until temps are at normal levels. No sitting around wasting gas.



Wind chill factor at 60 + MPH. Were I live If I am not going at least that when I leave my neighborhood(Less than a quarter mile) I will get rear ended. And I have not checked my antifreeze level since I burst a radiator hose on the road and replaced it. Probably should do that.
 
Wind chill factor at 60 + MPH. Were I live If I am not going at least that when I leave my neighborhood(Less than a quarter mile) I will get rear ended. And I have not checked my antifreeze level since I burst a radiator hose on the road and replaced it. Probably should do that.

The so called 'wind chill factor' does not apply to non-heat producing, living beings. If the ambient temp is (for instance) -10*F the coldest your radiator can ever got is -10*F irrespective of vehicle or wind speed. The air doesn't actually get colder- it just removes heat from heat producing sources (like mammals) faster.
 
The so called 'wind chill factor' does not apply to non-heat producing, living beings. If the ambient temp is (for instance) -10*F the coldest your rad
or can ever got is -10*F irrespective of vehicle or wind speed. The air doesn't actually get colder- it just removes heat from heat producing sources (like mammals) faster.

:cryUncle Just expressing my ignorant opinion. I am gone :w
 
I always let my vehicle to warm up until it idles down on its' own and then drive off. :upthumbs
 

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