water leak

[bbp]

I have a water leak down by the kick panel on both sides. I have new rubber around the doors, new weather stripping. New windshield seal. I even sealed around the windshield with silicon. I don't know where the water is coming from. Any ideas? Thanks Brent It's on a 66 coupe

 

[stepinwolf]

That's a no no

Brent,

From the scant information you supplied, I can't guarantee that the windshield area is where the water is entering your car, but if that is the case, you made a very bad choice of sealer. :ugh

Silicon should never be used to seal out the weather, especially around the windshield weatherstrip. I have seen windshield frames completely rotted away because of the humidity that collects in and around this type of sealer.

Also you mention " around the windshield " well in a lot of cases, water enters between the rubber, and the glass, not the rubber and the metal windshield frame. Check with your local parts store, and get some sealer that is made for sealing windshields ( tip, it never hardens, stays soft forever ) and after cutting a small portion of the tip, insert it forcibly between the rubber and the glass, and while holding it at a 45' angle, run a bead completely around the perimeter of the glass. This will completely eliminate any chances of water penetration in this area.

As far as the frame itself, it is also very important to use the same type of sealer, to cut down any water penetration before installing ( you didn't mention if it was in place or not ) your stainless trim. I have seen restorers use a hardening type sealer ( an example would be urethane ) and later, the trim was completely destroyed, when it became necessary to remove the trim.

Once your stainless is completely removed ( it has no sealing properties BTW ) partially fill the gap between the rubber, and the frame with a generous bead of sealer, making sure that there is plenty of sealer in and around the stainless trim retaining clips, and then carefully re-install your trim.

If you are not comfortable in doing all this yourself, for God's sake stay away from the modern glass shops who in most cases, have not installed or sealed any of our 40 year old cars. Try to find a restorer, or installer, who has experience in these type of windshield installations.

Good luck, call or e-me if anything is not clear

regards
Bob

 

[67HEAVEN]

Have you used dum-dum to seal around the base of the wiper rods, under the wiper vents. This can be an easy entry point for water if not sealed properly.

You'll have to remove the wipers to get the screens off -- be very careful when removing the wipers so as not to scratch them or the paint.

Good luck.

 

[stepinwolf]

How much does a scratch go for these days

Have you used dum-dum to seal around the base of the wiper rods, under the wiper vents. This can be an easy entry point for water if not sealed properly.

You'll have to remove the wipers to get the screens off -- be very careful when removing the wipers so as not to scratch them or the paint.

Good luck.

67heaven, With all due respect ( and you deserve a lot ) I feel compelled to ad the following to your very informative post.

No one, should be permitted anywhere near a wiper arm with out having the proper tool. Most restorers are still at the screwdriver stage on this, and it's not really the way to go.

Screw drivers are for " hello " driving screws, and not wiper blade removal. Most of the Corvette resellers are now offering the correct tool ( see below ) that will guarantee a safe, scratchless, removal, and it will also be of help in the re-installation of your wiper arm.

As a side benefit during installation, it's use is indispensable in order to correctly adjust the position of the blades. With this you can achieve enough precision to be able to seat your arm on the wiper transmission, one rib at a time, so the proper position is always achieved.

O, by the way, that thing about the cost of a scratch, most probably a hell of a lot more then the cost ( 6$ ) of the tool

 

[JohnZ]

Damp/wet carpets below the kickpads are also frequently a result of the drain holes at the bottom of the side air plenums being plugged; there's a drain hole about 2" rearward of the #1 body bolt on each side, which is usually plugged with old leaves and other crud, which is there to drain rain and wash water that enters through the wiper grilles. When those drains are plugged, it doesn't take much water to rise in the bottom of that chamber and leak through the joints below the kickpad grille - then it "wicks" down the carpet and soaks that area.

Remove the carpeted kickpad and the plastic vent grille and clean out the crud and open the drain holes in those chambers; most are plugged with debris.