What extra parts needed for brake job?

[HB95Vette]

Doing my first front brake job on my '95 (13" rotors) and I'm replacing the rotors (with dba/Baer rotors) and will probably go with the Autozone Performance Friction pads. My question, after looking at the catalogs and my Haynes... do I need new retainer pins and circlips (and are they different on the HD version) and since I'm replacing the rotors, do I need new bracket bolts? Also I assume I'll need to get a set of the spring clips? Is this all necessary? Is there anything I'm missing?
Thanks for all the help!

 

[tlong]

New pins and clips are recomended, and are available at Napa. Chevy dealers sometimes, but they want gold plated price. New bolts are also recomended with new threadlock pre-applied. I used the old bolts. Careful to get the torque right on those, as well as the lug nuts. The 4 anti-rattle clips should be with the pads or on there already. They must be attached when seated. Do not overlook brake grease at critical areas or you'll have moans and groans and squeaks. I learned this the hard way. There was no mention of it in any books. Use it on the moving parts of the pads inside the calipers in the channels. It's obvious.

You may want to look into ss braided lines. The stockers work well, but it made a difference on pedal feel, more linear. Then you would have to bleed it. New fluid now too while she's up.

You mentioned pads...are they ceramic? Look into those for very little dust. I canned the EBCs for ceramic. Huge difference in dust with no difference in feel. This will be a great upgrade for you. I went Raybestos rotors and c pads all around. Terrific.

 

[c4cruiser]

Can't hurt to get new retaining pins and the C-clips. The bracket bolts can be reused. Clean the threads and chase the holes to get all of the old threadlocker out. Apply a light coat of Fel-Pro BLUE threadlocker and retighten to spec. These bolts are very tight so be careful when removing the old bolts. A big breaker bar will be needed and make sure you don't let a socket slip off as it may round off the bolt face!! The only reason that the manuals say replace the bolts is because new bolts already have a threadlocker applied. As long as you clean everything and apply new threadlocker, you will be OK. DO NOT use the RED threadlocker!! This stuff requires heat to remove a nut or bolt when using it.

When you pull the old rotors, check the face of the bearing hub carefully for any rust or corrosion. Any roughness should be cleaned off with sandpaper or a Dremel and wire brush. Clean the surface of the hub with non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner and wipe with a clean rag.

As long as you are doing rotors, at least flush the old brake fluid. Takes about a quart to do. Castrol LMA or even the Ford Motorsport Heavy Duty fluid will work fine. Stainless lines are a good improvement and certainly check the hoses for any cracks or wear.

 

[HB95Vette]

Thanks!

Thanks for the pointers! Think I'll do the brake job over Thanksgiving weekend...