Bolisk
Well-known member
So, for the last couple of months. . .I was having trouble dignosing why my temp gague did not apper to be working. When I would turn the key to "run" the temp guague needle woudl move up slightly. . .indicating that there was power to the gague. Next, I checked the temp sending unit lead wire by connecting a volt meter to the lead wire, and ground. I got 12 volts. Next I noted that the previous owner had the wrong temp sending unit, and had wrapped the sending unit threads with plumbing tape. I have sence ordered a new "correct" sending unit and lead wire from Letric Limited, installed the new parts (without tape), and have retested the volts to the leadwire. The gague still never moved into the normal temp range. So, last time I let the engine run for 20 minutes or so. . .and noticed that I could still squeeze the radiator hoses. . .and they were never really all that warm. They were warm to the touch. . but not what I would expect. . .and there was little if any presure in the hose. . .I could easily squeeze them.
Now, it's been in the low 20's and teen's here in chicago. . .so I suppose that could be keeping the engine running cooler than normal. . .but not like this.
So now, I'm betting that my newly aquired car either does not have a thermostat. . .or it's stuck wide open.
So that brings me to the question at hand. . .
First some engine details: I have a 1970 350/350 11:1 compression engine. Currently the engine runs on 93 octane with no knocking. Now the fact that it's not knocking could be related to severl things. But I can tell you that the heatrisers on the intake manifod have been blocked via the gasket. I also suppose that it can run without knocking because the car never gets up to operating temperature.
So, taking into account. . .that i would still like the engine to run on 93 without knocking. . .(and I don't know if a working thermostat would make a differnence). . .what temperature thermostat should I buy for my car? ZIP has a 180 and a 160? What should I have? Also, any recomendations about thermostat brands (and hi performance. . .vs. low performance) would be great.
Now, it's been in the low 20's and teen's here in chicago. . .so I suppose that could be keeping the engine running cooler than normal. . .but not like this.
So now, I'm betting that my newly aquired car either does not have a thermostat. . .or it's stuck wide open.
So that brings me to the question at hand. . .
First some engine details: I have a 1970 350/350 11:1 compression engine. Currently the engine runs on 93 octane with no knocking. Now the fact that it's not knocking could be related to severl things. But I can tell you that the heatrisers on the intake manifod have been blocked via the gasket. I also suppose that it can run without knocking because the car never gets up to operating temperature.
So, taking into account. . .that i would still like the engine to run on 93 without knocking. . .(and I don't know if a working thermostat would make a differnence). . .what temperature thermostat should I buy for my car? ZIP has a 180 and a 160? What should I have? Also, any recomendations about thermostat brands (and hi performance. . .vs. low performance) would be great.