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what to do.......... what to do!

vetteKID

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 1, 2002
Messages
122
Location
ellicott city, MD
Corvette
74 L-48 coupe & 85 454 coupe
ok well i took the car to my mechanic and her gave me a list of thing that were wrong with my vette.

-power steering leak @ ram rod.
-lower control arm bushings.
-front shocks.
-upper control arm bushings.
-master cylinder loan :)confused)
-high beam indicator
-headlights do not come up
-horn not loud
-pvc system not intacked (becuase of edelbrock carb and manifold)

so how much is this going to cost me without labor ?(have some connections in the suspension buisness and can do stuff my self).
and how much with labor?
 
Power steering rod is an easy fix with a couple wrenches and a line wrench for the hose fittings.

Control arm bushings are not so easy but can be done. Get a suspension video from Van Steel for $20 and save a ton on labor.

Shocks are not hard to change.

NOTE: after you do the shocks and bushings you'll need an alignment.

I haven't a clue what a master cylinder loan is, but a master cyclinder is another easy swap, $20-25 at your local auto parts store. Ratchet and line wrench and 30 minutes of your time.

Hi-beam idicator is probably a burned out bulb in the dash, screw driver takes out the screws and pop in a new bulb, cost about 50 cents.

Headlights- probably the actuator seals are bad, $10 each and you need 2 inner and 2 outer. Easy fix but you have to take your time with it.

Horn- ? Check to make sure the connections are not corroded first.

PVC- is it all missing?


OK, I just saved you a bundle of money, figure out what I saved you and mail me 30% :D One of the best things you can get is a GM shop manual for your specific year, check ebay as I got mine for $10. Brand new they are $100.
 
BURGLAR said:
Scott- You sure made all that seem easy enough.:L

If only it was that easy, I'd sure like working on the Vette a whole lot more :D Actually though, a little time and effort and most of the things he needs fixed aren't all that hard to do....probably because I've done all of them more than once already :cry
 
Truthfully, it doesn't seem that bad...

... there appears to be nothing major, just your average 25 year old worn out items.
Silver
 
it was master cylinder is "low" not loan, and why is it low....beucase my back pass caliper leaks. looks like cross crilled rotors and new rear calipers are in order, or could i just fix the O ring on the brake piston (or whatever). and the the part of the pvc system missing is the one from the valve cover to the air cleaner.
 
Here's what I was told by someone that knows brakes, cross drilled rotors look cool but aren't really necessary unless you have a need for higher performance brakes, plus they seem to crack. The cracking problem might have gotten better with Vette Brakes new calipers but I haven't seen them on a car. I do know a guy with drilled rotors on another car and every hole has cracks coming off them. As far as the leaking caliper, it's an easy replacement or if you have the patience fix the seal. Either way you'll need to bleed the system as you probably have air in it now.

Your PVC is an easy replacement, run up to the local auto parts store and get a valve and some hose, plug it into the vavle cover and you're done :D
 
Regarding rotors...(I know I've posted this elsewhere 'round here...) Cutting to the chase, it breaks down like this....

Daily driving, occasional holeshots/WOT runs = regular solid rotors
A lot of wet driving = cross-drilled rotors
Racing = Grooved rotors

Cross-drilled are more fashion over function nowadays... I have cross drilled on my daily driver (which I drive as hard, but logs 100x the mileage). They haven't started to spider/vein/crack yet! It depends on the initial quality AND the proper break in. You don't break them in like standard rotors...nuh-uh...much more patience and time involved.

Why do I have cross-drilled on the daily driver? 1) In the winter, I didn't like how solid rotors after some highway driving would take that two-seconds extra before they started to grip. 2) I have thin-spoke rims on the car, which show a lot...Didn't want crappy, rusted, solid rotors showing with ma new wheels...

When I need to replace the rotors on the vette, I'll either stay with solid or step up to grooved.
IMHO, the only cross-drilled rotors one could really really torture would be the ceramic discs that Porshe uses now on the GT2.
 
the problem with the Pvc system is the air cleaner is aftermarket, so there is no plug in. and i have cross drilled rotors on my daily driver camaro, they seem fine.
 
vetteKID said:
it was master cylinder is "low" not loan, and why is it low....beucase my back pass caliper leaks. looks like cross crilled rotors and new rear calipers are in order, or could i just fix the O ring on the brake piston (or whatever). and the the part of the pvc system missing is the one from the valve cover to the air cleaner.

Replacing the seals on the brake pistons should cure the leaking calipers. 3 hours working time for each corner + $12.95 seal kit for each caliper.
I did my 71 big block last weekend. Shipped mine over to UK from Corvette Central in Michigan.
Corvette dealer in London wanted $30 per corner + shipping!!!

Maybe there's a better deal.

Cheers
Paul

There is a better deal - Zip Corvette parts $10.50

http://store.yahoo.com/zipproducts/brakes-disc-brake-system-calipers.html
 

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