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When did your "C5" Clutch Go Out?

When did your "C5" Clutch Go Out?

  • > 110K miles

    Votes: 3 21.4%
  • 70K - 110K miles

    Votes: 6 42.9%
  • 30K - 70K miles

    Votes: 4 28.6%
  • 0 - 30K miles

    Votes: 1 7.1%

  • Total voters
    14
  • Poll closed .
my clutch pedal has been sticking big time too! Its driving me nuts when i bang gears and the clutch pedal gets stuck to the floor almost. Scared the hell outta me the first time. Anybody know more or less how much it would cost to have a shop to repair that problem?
 
It has happened to me a couple of times at the dragstrip. C4C5 explained why that happens, but I did not fully understand what he was saying, so I cannot provide the details. Slow your shiftwork down just a tiny hair, and it does not occur (at least in my car).
 
MsSchroder said:
Not yet for me, but I only have 18K miles on it.

I'm curious to know what are the symptoms when the clutch begins to fail?

Tammy
Too much torque hehe. The smell and smoke out the back were my symptoms lol!
 
Hi Ryan,
I blew up my clutch, at about 37k. The clutch was removed to fix a rear main seal oil leak by the previous owner. Apparently the mechanic didn't know how to use a torque wrench and took out the clutch, flywheel, starter and both pieces of the aluminum bell housing. The dealer got GM to kick in for a percentage of the repairs. I think I got about $6000 of work done for about $3500. They had to replace the oil pan too, since that had been installed incorrectly.

Anyway I have had the same problem with going into reverse. I just make it a habbit to continue to push on the stick shift while i'm letting the clutch out. This habbit ensures no grinding.

Hope this helps.
 
schmaltzr said:
Hi Ryan,
I blew up my clutch, at about 37k. The clutch was removed to fix a rear main seal oil leak by the previous owner. Apparently the mechanic didn't know how to use a torque wrench and took out the clutch, flywheel, starter and both pieces of the aluminum bell housing. The dealer got GM to kick in for a percentage of the repairs. I think I got about $6000 of work done for about $3500. They had to replace the oil pan too, since that had been installed incorrectly.

Anyway I have had the same problem with going into reverse. I just make it a habbit to continue to push on the stick shift while i'm letting the clutch out. This habbit ensures no grinding.

Hope this helps.
Hey thanks for the tip I'll be sure to try it out from now on.
 
It went out it the straight away at Pacific International Raceway between 3rd and 4th gear at about 5500 rpm. Seriously, the car had about 38,000 miles on it, and the clutch failed when a bolt broke loose due to mechanic error. The destruction took out both pieces of the aluminum bell housing, starter, clutch, flywheel and about $3000 of my checking account.
 
1998, 57,000 miles, original clutch... All is good, no slipping!
 
99 with 82K highway, no track...on it's way out...no slipping as of yet, but I've got "0" travel up left on the pedal. It fully catches on release and thats all there is...not looking forward to the bill...oh well..
 
Paul, thanks for the reply, I did'nt even think of that! Must be getting old...In any case, I had the car towed yesterday to GM because the column locked failed! It had the reprogram done, however it was only a matter of time I find out that it was going to fail in anycase and I never put in a CLB...now GM is tellilng me they fixed the probem but the BCM if FRIED! Here I go again...

Thanks again for the info...
 
Rockauto doen't have it in stock so it could take a few weeks to get from them. You could also try to get one from Fichtner Chevrolet in Montana Call Bob Wendorff at 406-628-4121 Tell him you are a member of the corvetteforum.

Paul
 
Paul...thanks for the help and you're right..was quoted $600 for the installation of the replacement BCM. Wife gave an ok to do the work when she could'nt get me on the phone, knowing I need the car back asap. They already cracked it open and we're kind of stuck...oh well..Had vetts since 69, kind of expect every shop repair to cost me dearly. Stoped getting my hands dirty a few years back, may be time to wipe the tools down.

Best regards,

Ralph
 
Be careful about refilling the fluid in the master clyinder as I had one mechanic tell me that is the best indicator going as to how much life your clutch has left (unless you have a leak). When its almost empty engaged (and your brakes aren't worn) then its time to replace the clutch. He was saying that if you replace then or soon after it will save the rest of the transmission from needing to be replaced as well. If you try to stretch the clutch replacement he said you could damage the transmission which would double the bill. Don't know how accurate his suggestion is but he did great work on the car in other areas (at a very fair price) and he seemed to know his stuff so I'm inclined to believe him.
 
My stock clutch started going around 62K miles. As the second owner of the car I was disappointed to realize that the original owner must have been hard on the clutch because I certainly never was. Replaced with a Z06 clutch and aluminum flywheel.
 
Replaced mine at 45K miles. It was after I added the new heads, Fast LSX 90 intake and LS2 90mm throttlebody. Think that had anything to do with it? ;)
I put it on the dyno and the stock clutch would not hold at the torque peak @ 4800rpm, just fried it. It still made over SAE 440rwhp at only 5000rpm with it slipping. My replacement is a SPEC Stage 3+ rated at 850rwt. The new clutch has a sweet engagement, and no chatter. This is the only item I didn't install myself, I had my tuner at DEZ racing do the install, because he has done over 40 of them. The new flywheel is from SPEC also, slightly lighter and balanced. I'm happy with it. Now I need another dyno to see what I'm actually making for power. Regarding the clutch fluid, I was told not to bleed the system. I was told to syphon off the resevoir and replace the fluid with new DOT3. It takes a few outings to get all the fluid exchanged. Pedal effort is nice.
 
Changed clutch

My clutch started acting up from the early beginnings, any time I ran the car hard. By running it hard, I don't mean dumping the clutch or hard shifting, just running high RPM and putting the car through it's paces... I.E., how a Corvette was meant to be driven. The peddle would go spongy and would not disengage until jammed to the floor. I don't drag race, I don't do burn outs, and I avoid hard "jack rabbit" starts and dumping the clutch. I've run the car in 3 auto-cross events, but remained in 2nd gear the majority of the time. First slip was around 30k miles with hot tires after pulling over with a club caravan on the highway. Second was with cool tires after pulling over to talk on the cel-phone. Both times were on realatively decent asphalt. The clutch was replaced under warranty due to the bizzare scenarios and slipage. I paid the difference and had a Z06 clutch installed. MUCH better clutch performance! Better than new in fact. No slippage or odd peddle feel when run hard.
 

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