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Which C4?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Michel73
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Michel73

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I've been a Corvette nut for years. Owned a few C3's. But now thinking about a C4. Not that there's anything wrong with the 84' to 90' models. But I really like the 91' and up more. Is there anything to look for or look out for on the later C4's? Also is the fiberglass body pretty much the same on the C4's as on the C3's (seems like C3's are pron to stress cracks)?

Thanks - Michel :w
 
Michel73
On the C4 generation Corvette, the latter the model year, the more refinements have made their way into the car. Each new model year, GM had chiseled away at as many original flaws as they could. Everything from squeak and rattle control to adding venting to the infamous opti-spark in the 95 model.

Depending on how much you wish to spend is another factor. You could find a pampered 91, 92, or 93 for that matter and be totally satisfied with it. They may not have the latter refinements, but if cared for, they would make fine drivers.

I personally have never come across stress cracks in any of my C4’s, I’ve owned an 86, 93, 94, and now a 96. I put the most mileage on my 94, 66, + thousand miles, I had not detected any signs of cracks.

If I was in the market for a C4, I would look at 95’s and 96’s. Mainly because of the venting added to the opti-spark. Also, I think squeak/rattle quality control finally started showing there results. My 96 seems to have a quieter cockpit than the 94 I owned. Only on the cold mornings do I hear some “itching” from the rear hatch area. Not bothersome, but there at times.

One of my biggest gripes about the C4 is the weather stripping. It is bound to crack in the B pillar area on the sides . Even if maintained, the strips will give into the cracking at some point. No problem, there are plenty of weather strips available, OEM and aftermarket. I have yet to see a regularly driven C4 that does not have some type of degradation on the weatherstrip.

If the car comes with the transparent top, check it for cracks or delamination.

Seats were of similar design from 91 to 93. In 94 a newly designed seat was introduced. Personally, I find the 94 on up seats more comfortable, they seem wider and more comfortable. That is subjective of course.

Engines are a factor too, the L98 (250 hp) bowed out in 91, it was replaced by the LT1 (300 hp) on the 92. The 300 hp LT1 was used up until 96. Note that the 96 LT1 only came with an automatic transmission. If you wanted a manual in 96, you’d need to look at an LT4 (330 hp) car.

There are a few common oil leaks that occur on LT1 and LT4 cars, the intake manifold gasket, look your prospective cars over for these kind of leaks. If properly repaired, it should not haunt you for some time. Also, check out the front and rear main seals. I highly recommend having a knowledgeable unbiased Corvette mechanic/tech look the car over. Get it on a lift and have him go over the car, it’d be great if you were present so he could show you first-hand any problems.

Happy Hunting
B17Crew
:w
 
I agree with B17Crew.

After 12 years and 104+K miles on my 92, I agree. I've experienced the intake leak - fixed by a good dealer and no more problems. My weather stripping is showing cracks and I've had the hatch stripping replaced. I don't wash the motor for fear of getting water in the Opti - I recently changed it out to the later version with the vent when I had the Hot Cam installed.

I've owned a 96 LT4 Z51 car also and the comment about less squeaks, etc. in the 95/96 version apply.

At this point in time, any Z07/FX3 cars with the selective ride control system are probably going to need the shocks looked at. At $200 each and $300+ for actuators, they ain't cheap to replace - however, several people have installed regular shocks instead of the SRC ones. I replaced all my shocks recently and had 2 actuators bad. Bilstein will rebuild them for about $100 each - I'm going to do that and have the old ones updated with better valving when I get around to it.

A lot of people complain about the Bose stereos - if the speaker amps go bad, they can be really annoying. I've replaced 2 so far - not hard to do, just annoying.

I'm going to hang onto my ol' 92 for a long time - love it too much to get rid of it and I'm making if faster as I go.

Look for the newest one you can afford and you'll probably do okay.
 
I agree with both these post's, great stuff. I would like to add that I have seen stress cracks on the C4, on the rear QP right at the front bottom of the rear hatch, you know, where the water allways sets.
Also some people don't like the Low Tire Pressure Warning System option, the sensors are banded to the rim's, often broken by tire shop's and costly. I have LTPWS and I like it.
Good Luck... :w
 
Do you want to drive her or do you want to play with her?

I agree with all of the above for a driver. We had a 93 that was better put together than the 90. I bough the 90 to play with. The L98 is a tuner’s play ground.

The 93 had Opti problems but GM made it right in warranty.

If you can throw 20K at a C4 grab a Grand Sport or ZR1.
 
Show Me

Hey Spanish,
When you throw that 20K for a Grand Sport where does the remaining 5K come from?

Verts are 30K, coupes 25K to get in the game from what I've seen. Show me a low mile GS for 20 that ain't hot and I'll buy it today.
 
Michel73 said:
I've been a Corvette nut for years. Owned a few C3's. But now thinking about a C4. Not that there's anything wrong with the 84' to 90' models. But I really like the 91' and up more. Is there anything to look for or look out for on the later C4's?
The general rule, as other have said, is that the later the model the better because of ongoing improvements in the car and the way it is put together. But the main thing is to buy the best car you can afford. Get a '96 if you can swing it. But I would rather have a really nice 90 than an average 96. Get the best.

One thing about that later is better rule. If a major change is made then they are again starting as an introducty vehicle. For example the LT1 in '92 and its OptiSpark system. The Opti Spark got better each year, but... Would it be best to get a late Chevy L98 (say 90/91) or get an early GM LT1 (say 92/93)? Your call. Just remember to get the best you can afford.

tom...
 
I own a 84' coupe and have never seen a stress crack, on my 68' roadster, I had stress cracks around the fwd hood mount area, and screws pulling thru on the headlights, and the bonding strips showing trough the fiberglass, but they were addressed when I repainted it. I've driven/owned a C3 and a C4, the C3 was a hot rod, and the C4 is a refined hot rod , loved them both..Jim R :_rock :v
 
tlong said:
Hey Spanish,
When you throw that 20K for a Grand Sport where does the remaining 5K come from?

Verts are 30K, coupes 25K to get in the game from what I've seen. Show me a low mile GS for 20 that ain't hot and I'll buy it today.

Here you go 4 Collectors Editions and a GS. The Buy it now price on the GS is only $16,500.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2456314773&category=6168



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2457574972&category=6168



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2457896219&category=6168





http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2457896219&category=6168



LT-4
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2457086463&category=6168


Grand sport

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2457535328&category=6168

:upthumbs
 
E-Bay? Risky business unless you are local to the listing. I was really referring to a Grand Sport, the Admiral Blue variety. Low miles means under 50K to me.

The general marketplace for these is $25,000 + or - $2,000.

I would think LT-4s are run a bit harder than most and it would be quite prudent to take a personal look instead of a roll of the E-Bay dice. But it would be worth waiting for in the long run. Same for a ZR-1.
 

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