im running Bosch rapid fires
se the 4+ makes sure u get a spark each time, whre the rapid fires will fire twice as fast,, sparking more rapidly im not sure which one is better, but im thinking of buyin the 4+ cause i think the rapid fires are messing up my idle
Yes, the manual is correct....stay stock! Here are a few problems using a washer.
1. The plug tip is now recessed (using a washer) and hampers a good spark to begin the "flame front."
2. Recessed plugs expose threads. Carbon build-up will occur. When you, or the next person installs the plugs correctly, (i.e., as per-manual) the now carboned aluminum threads will take the brunt of the spark plug being sent home. Not only will the threads be damaged by the plug, but now, the plug's threads at the tip will become flat. When it's time to pull the plugs out, there goes the rest of the undamaged threads at the higher end of the aluminum plug hole.
3. Using a washer under a tapered plug and/or hole, creates slight combustion loss.
Hope these variables help you to understand why it's so important to stay stock, and stop trying to out engineer the engineer.
or just any spark plug, and u put them in yoru self, dont' forget to space them
corvette needs to be at .3500 well for the 85, that is,, i think it is for 84 to 96's
anyways, answer this for me,, my spark plugs keep geting crap on them,, itsnot oil, i didn't hink it was carbon,, its just black dust like stuff,,
so i just stick it in my sand blaster, sand blast it and stick them back in,,,,, also,, for u 85 to like 91 models out there, not sure what models this applies, too,, but,, on my model,, "85",, my D cap kept collecting,, white stuff on each contact,, i neverknew why,, so after sevearl times,, i kept buying new,, caps cuase its a pain to sand those off,, but then i finally,, boguth brass tips,, and its life time warenty,, as well,, hehe,, so then it won't get white stuff on it,,,, then i notice why,, when i replaced my ICM chip one day,, whre the wire goes into the D Cap the little plastic there was lightly cracked,, letting moister into it,, sigh,, so i sliaconed it, hehe,, its the side of the passenager side, guy's,, ,, just wanted o mention this, fo those,, that have this problem
There is a constant presence of air inside the D cap. Nature tends to keep things at 14.7 psi most of the time. No matter what you do, short of vacuum sealing the D cap, you cannot eliminate nature and her wet air. The reason you see the "white powder" is because of the arching process, during it's 360 degree cycle. The spark creats the powder from the wet air. This is the result from arching the damp resedue inside the distributor cap.
Most spark plug failures occur (fouling) inside the center electrode... where sand blasting cannot reach. The fine grit lodged in between the spark plug's threads are a matter of concern! You could possibly damage the head's plug thread when installing. Electricity tends to find the shortest path. And if a plug's center electrode sparks before jumping the side electrode, as designed, sand blasting will not help.
hey, was that comment on the rapid fire to the 4+ on bosche,, dude thats how it works,, 4+ has 4 points,, and rapid fire, has wierd looking tip,, that will sit there and stagard the spark,, or something,, if im wrong, ,then how does it work, i may be wrong,, its my guess,,,and so far its th eonly answer i have,, rapid fires are more epensive then 4+ i think,, min ewa slike 7 a piece it was like a dollar differance
and yeah i know why the white stuff is there, i have bras tips now though the white stuff, won't get on it as easy