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"whileyouareatityoumightaswellas" is a bad disease

CHL
you want pics?
here you go:
http://69.253.166.197/page1/page76/page76.html

that's the intro page on my site for this project. On the right hand side are other links to various sections for each area as I'm working on it or completed such as motor disassembly, exhaust manifolds, ignition shielding, valve covers, expansion tank, etc.
 
BarryK said:
CHL
you want pics?
here you go:
http://69.253.166.197/page1/page76/page76.html

that's the intro page on my site for this project. On the right hand side are other links to various sections for each area as I'm working on it or completed such as motor disassembly, exhaust manifolds, ignition shielding, valve covers, expansion tank, etc.

Hey Thanks for that link!!!!!!!!!!!:beer
 
Hey Barry.... Quit typing, get off the computer, and get back to work on the car! The more time you spend over here, the less time you have to get the car ready for the spring, or my visit for that matter...... Gotta be all back together before we get that A/C installed.

Have fun.....
 
I'm trying Paul, I'm working on it but just going slowly and taking my time to try and make sure I do it right. :)
 
Not to worry. I'm just bustin' your chops. Let me know when you are ready, and we'll be down.
 
Barry,
I would not pull the motor out. Too much potential for collateral damage. Having done the paint thing, you know the drill, I tend to minimize my chances for "little incidents." Too much money in that 3mm covering.

As to your rad problem, just take it to a local shop. Most local shops have seen the usual consumer foul-ups. Shipping it will just do further damage.

BTW, why do you want a clear-coat paint job buffed? It will dull the surface and in extreme circumstances get down to the base colour coat.

Saw this with a local GM dealer and product/new vehicle. It was not a pretty sight. A good clear-coat finish should need just a good wash. I haven't touched my paint since May 2005.

If you remember back to your bumper days - and advice from John Z - don't use a chrome polish. It removes a layer of chromium each time you use it. I believe the same is true with paint.

Now I am ready to be flamed from the detailing experts. No problem.
 
Paul

the motor is not getting pulled. no way.

the rad is already packed and shipped back to Tom DeWitt. He gave me a price on the repair that was more than fair!! Also, this way i know it's going to be repaired properly and not some "bubba" repair.

buffing makes the paint shine like crazy. Besides, after it was painted and clearcoated it was wetsanded and after wetsanding it HAS to be buffed out to bring all the gloss and shine back. wetsanding makes it look like crap and there is zero shine to it until it's buffed out but the combination of the wetsanding and the buffing makes it look a LOT better than if it wasn't done at all - the only downside is the extra labor involved. He's not charging me for the buffing this winter as it's still part of my original job. there are some areas such as some edges, curves, etc that didn't get buffed out thoroughly the first time simply because he was being extra careful since the paint was fresh and he didn't want to risk burning thru an edge which is easy to do. Now the paint is much more cured and he can buff it out again more thoroughly as the paint is cured and harder.
I'm not worried about him cutting thru the clear coat to the color coats as he sprayed 4 coats of clear knowing he would be wetsanding and buffing. It does take a bit of the clear coat away but that's what the wetsanding is designed to do but we still end up with approx 2-3 coats of clear left which is plenty.
 
and if you pull the motor and get started on the other stuff, you might begin thinking...."top flight, top flight, top flight....":D
 
Barry,

You made a good decision not to pull the engine or you could end up here.:D

IM001167.jpg


IM001746.jpg


Dave
:beer
 
Barry,
OK, you're a braver man than me. I wouldn't let anyone with a grit buffer anywhere near my new paint job. But I wish you well! I have never understood the need to grind down a polished, urethane surface.

BTW, freezing rain here tonight. New high efficiency natural gas furnace being installed on Wednesday to get off fuel oil. Then we head down to the really cold temps for December. I have seen -25F at Christmas. These old houses do take away $s from Corvette repairs. But quite frankly, I love this old house, and my $s are in that direction. Hence I have not been here much lately.

Keep up the restoration work and posts. I enjoy them. Reminds me of what I did in 2003. You have seen my engine pics.
 
Paul
it doesn't bother me in the least. I look at the wetsanding and buffing as just part of the painting process. what would scare me is if I had to do it - not someone who is a guy that has specialized in painting old vettes for over 30 years. :)

yes, i have seen your engine pics and YOU and your engine pics are one of the main reasons and one of the main people I blame for me getting in this deep! ;LOL Seriously, everytime I would see a pic of your engine I couldn't stand to open the hood of my car for weeks on end
 
ZRGator said:
and if you pull the motor and get started on the other stuff, you might begin thinking...."top flight, top flight, top flight....":D

Go for it!!!!!!! :D

You will feel better.:D
 
paul67 said:
Barry,
OK, you're a braver man than me. I wouldn't let anyone with a grit buffer anywhere near my new paint job. But I wish you well! I have never understood the need to grind down a polished, urethane surface.

BTW, freezing rain here tonight. New high efficiency natural gas furnace being installed on Wednesday to get off fuel oil. Then we head down to the really cold temps for December. I have seen -25F at Christmas. These old houses do take away $s from Corvette repairs. But quite frankly, I love this old house, and my $s are in that direction. Hence I have not been here much lately.

Keep up the restoration work and posts. I enjoy them. Reminds me of what I did in 2003. You have seen my engine pics.


Paul Make sure you have a quaility carbon monoxcide dedector installed in the home. Gas is very safe now as long as its installed correctly In our area probably 98% have been using gas for the last 40 years or so but I still recomend a CO detector to every one I meet with gas in there home.If you had a problems with the chimney and oil you would have an odor and some smoke. If you have a problem with gas and a chimney youll never know as CO is oderless and colorless.

Good Luck with the install
 
Larry,
I hear you re the CO detector. I have done a lot to the house since we moved in late in August. One of those jobs was to have it hardwired for security, smoke and CO detection. The attached garage has security detectors in the same loop although the Corvette is only there from May to October. When my car was reappraised in October and I upped the agreed value the insurance company asked me about the garage and its security. They had not done that in previous years but of course I was now able to say yes to that question. I believe 67heaven ran into that question as well many months ago. So the classic car companies must be tightening up. (BTW the unit is a York Affinity V, two-stage variable speed ECM. The gas fireplace is Vermont Castings.)

Barry,
You will be pleased with the results. I rather enjoyed the cleanup and how the engine turned out. Once done it is easy to maintain, especially if you drive only occasionally as I do. My comment on buffing stems from an incident at a GM dealer when a new Grand Prix was being prepared and buffed for delivery. The rookie doing the job ground right through the clear and colour coats. But as you say, a professional would not commit such a foolish error. But it made me think.
 
paul67 said:
Barry,
You will be pleased with the results. I rather enjoyed the cleanup and how the engine turned out. Once done it is easy to maintain, especially if you drive only occasionally as I do. My comment on buffing stems from an incident at a GM dealer when a new Grand Prix was being prepared and buffed for delivery. The rookie doing the job ground right through the clear and colour coats. But as you say, a professional would not commit such a foolish error. But it made me think.

well, the final results of my work are yet to be seem, but I hope it comes out looking better than I started anyway!

as for the buffing, I'm not sure if buffing makes much of a difference or not if the car was not wetsanded first, but I do believe that with the combination of first wetsanding to eliminate any orange peel that occured during painting followed by a good buffing really makes a difference. Any orange peel in paint just really bothers me but for other people it isn't as offensive I suppose and they accept it as normal. From a factory paint job some amount of it seems to be normal and is accepted by most people but if I'm going to go thru what I did and be without my car for almost a year for new paint than I see no reason to have to accept it and I expect the paint to look as good as possible. To me that means wetsanding to get rid of any orange peel and than a good buffing to bring back the shine and gloss to a high level. It's not NCRS acceptable but I don't care one little bit, it's the way I want it and it's MY car so I can have it done however I wish! :D
 
Hello All.....Just to show you all what a great guy BARRY is, my car is in his garage and he is helping me out with my interior renovation..new carpet, seats, new front stereo speakers. etc....
What a great guy, but we all know that....I just came back from his house and his car is up on the jack stands..He won't pull the motor this year, I can tell you that and probably the only reason why is because MY car is taking up the spot where the engine would have been!!!! ( sorry buddy)......

Barry has also become our Corvette Clubs Newsletter editor..a task he will do a dynamite job with ...........!!!

Andy:D





BarryK said:
well, the final results of my work are yet to be seem, but I hope it comes out looking better than I started anyway!

as for the buffing, I'm not sure if buffing makes much of a difference or not if the car was not wetsanded first, but I do believe that with the combination of first wetsanding to eliminate any orange peel that occured during painting followed by a good buffing really makes a difference. Any orange peel in paint just really bothers me but for other people it isn't as offensive I suppose and they accept it as normal. From a factory paint job some amount of it seems to be normal and is accepted by most people but if I'm going to go thru what I did and be without my car for almost a year for new paint than I see no reason to have to accept it and I expect the paint to look as good as possible. To me that means wetsanding to get rid of any orange peel and than a good buffing to bring back the shine and gloss to a high level. It's not NCRS acceptable but I don't care one little bit, it's the way I want it and it's MY car so I can have it done however I wish! :D
 
Andy

keep saying things like that and you can take your car home right now! I'm an a**hole and a crappy guy and don't say other. :D

BTW, the reason the motor isn't coming out this year is not because your car is in the way it's because i have more than I can handle on my hands with the amount i've already gotten into and don't need more headaches.

In addition, the only reason i'm letting you have you car in my garage is so I can walk out and look at two vettes instead of only one. Besides, yours is a '79 Greenwood and you know I have a sentimental place in my heart for '79's. You know that history.
i'm only being selfish about it, not being a nice guy. ;LOL
 
Pull the motor

Call Shafiroff and live a little


The ONLY mistake I made in working on my cars was to keep the small block engine in the car. :cry
 
Kid_Again said:
Pull the motor

Call Shafiroff and live a little


The ONLY mistake I made in working on my cars was to keep the small block engine in the car. :cry


Kid

I do plan in a couple of years when the budget allows to pull this original motor and store it to preserve it and keep anything from happening. Not sure I want to go thru all the hassles of a BB conversion, so right now i'm thinking about a 383Stroker. Maybe a 400 SB converted to a stroker also. i'll do a Keisler 5-speed at the same time.
A SB stroker should be a drop in conversion, keep the weight down, and have plenty of torgue. I'll be able to get rid of my 4.11 rear gears too to make highway driving much more pleasant.
I'd love a BB car at somepoint, but on this car it's too original to start having to do a major conversion or a lot of fabrication (which I can't do anyway) that can't be easily reversed and allow the original motor to drop back in again at some point if needed.
 

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