First of all, what you read above about mixing water with brake fluid even in your bleeding container. Those who offer that advice have misguided ideas about brake service.
Also, I would avoid using a hand vacuum pump to bleed brakes. While that works in some cases, it also can cause more problems than it solves.
As for your task at hand....the first thing to do is change the brake hoses. When you go to buy a set of braided-stainless-steel-covered Teflon brake hoses, the best stuff meets FVMSS 108. These days, most of what's sold in sets for use on road vehicles meet that standard. The most recent set I acquired was for my 2012 and I got them from CAC sponsor Zip Products.
Click here for C4 braided hoses.
In most cases, you'll need some metric flare nut wrenches to break the fittings loose from the chassis end of the hoses. I got my flare nut wrenches from the GearWrench people and they're
reviewed here.
Connect each new hose to its calper, first, then connect it to the brake pipe on the chassis.
Once you have the hoses in place then flush the system and bleed.
I start by sucking the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder with a "turkey baster". Then I fill the reserviour with clean fluid.
Next, I install my pressure bleeder and pump it up to 25 PSI.
Then, I crack both fittings on the master cylinder for a half or second or so each.
Now, move onto the the brake calipers. I start at the farest one away from the master the RR. Now you need a container designed for bleeding brakes. I use a special brake bleeding "bottle" whch has the submerged hose built in and a wire loop I can hang on the suspension. The soda bottle "thing" works ok, but fill it with the brake fluid you sucked out of the master cylinder and not water. Submerge a clear plastic hose in the bottle, install your 10-mm bleeder wrench then open the bleeder. Watch the fluid flowing though the hose for bubbles. Bleed the RR caliper until the fluid "runs clean" and is bubble free. I usually rap the caliper at least once with a plastic hammer while the fitting is open.
Repeat that procedure at the LR, RF and finally the LF brake.
Now check pedal feel. With the brake booster bled down, it should be pretty firm. If it's spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure.
To flush the inside the modulator valve for the ABS you'll need to perform the Autobleed procedure discussed in the Service Manual. This requires a professional grade scan tester with chassis software. If you lack that, you'll need to take the car to a dealer or service facility with the right equipment to run Autobleed.
You can, also, bleed the base brake system, but not the ABS, manually by having an assistant pump the brakes while you bleed the master and calipers, however, most people misunderstand how to "foot bleed" the brakes. You don't pump the brakes rapidly and aggressively. You stroke the pedal slowly and firmly once or twice then hold moderate pressure while the bleeder fitting is opened. The fitting has to be closed while the pedal is still on the downstroke rather than when it bottoms. Wait five seconds between each stroke. Check the master cylinder level when you finish each caliper.
I usually pressure bleed because it's easier, more efficient and less prone to allowing air or contaminated fluid back into the system.
If you need more information on flushing/bleeding the brakes, see the Factory Service Manual.
