WHom has assembled their motor, 1st time?

[LD85]

I am mechanically inlcined ( an ME actualy) and have bolted on heads but never installed a crank, flywheel, a distributor, degreed a cam, etc.

Words of advice? I am building a 406 and debating on if I sholud have the machine shop/builder assemble the crank, flywheel, cam and damperer or maybe just save the money. This motor is adding up quick.

Did you paint the block outside,,, inside,, etc ? I have most all tools required except cam degreeing kit & a piston ring tool.

 

[-=Jeff=-]

I am mechanically inlcined ( an ME actualy) and have bolted on heads but never installed a crank, flywheel, a distributor, degreed a cam, etc.

Words of advice? I am building a 406 and debating on if I sholud have the machine shop/builder assemble the crank, flywheel, cam and damperer or maybe just save the money. This motor is adding up quick.

Did you paint the block outside,,, inside,, etc ? I have most all tools required except cam degreeing kit & a piston ring tool.

I would have a Machine shop assemble the motor. When I had mine built it was only an extra $250 to assemble it and it even had a warranty

 

[jeepie]

I have done the entire motor before and I have also had the machine shop do the short block. My advice is that if you are not doing the short block stock I would have the machine shop do at least the short block, there are clearances to check that can get complicated. They should know what they are doing, and one of the worst things that can happen is to have to pull the motor twice to fix it because you messed something up.
Just my $.02.

 

[LD85]

thanks jeepie, I luv a challenge but I agree with you on the shortblock and I think since its a 406 with clearance issues I will have them put in the cam, crank, rods , pistons timing chain dampr and and balance the setup.

I have installed many a heads, trannys, clutches and intakes but your right, there are a lot of clearance issuses with the crank, rods pistons cams etc an I dont want to turn it on an have an OH CRAP! on my new 406.

 

[Jack]

since its a 406 with clearance issues I will have them put in the cam, crank, rods , pistons timing chain dampr and and balance the setup ... there are a lot of clearance issuses with the crank, rods pistons cams etc an I dont want to turn it on an have an OH CRAP! on my new 406.

LD85:
with certain combo's, stroker clearancing may be minimal or unnecessary. Shoot for about 0.050" cam-to-rod, rod-to-block and crank-to-block clearances. Too little and things may bang into each other when hot. Too much grinding on rods weakens them ... too much on block and risk of cutting into water jackets increases. Best to pressure test block after any clearancing on it.
Exactly which 400 block (? chevy or aftermarket?)
Have block's mains been line-bored? ... effectively raising crank & rods closer to cam? ... if so, how much?
Exactly which crank (?stroke, mfg pn?)
Exactly which rod (?length, mfg pn?)
Exactly which cam (?roller or not, lift, mfg pn?)
JACK:grinsanta

 

[LD85]

LD85:
with certain combo's, stroker clearancing may be minimal or unnecessary. Shoot for about 0.050" cam-to-rod, rod-to-block and crank-to-block clearances. Too little and things may bang into each other when hot. Too much grinding on rods weakens them ... too much on block and risk of cutting into water jackets increases. Best to pressure test block after any clearancing on it.
Exactly which 400 block (? chevy or aftermarket?)
Have block's mains been line-bored? ... effectively raising crank & rods closer to cam? ... if so, how much?
Exactly which crank (?stroke, mfg pn?)
Exactly which rod (?length, mfg pn?)
Exactly which cam (?roller or not, lift, mfg pn?)
JACK:grinsanta

Sorry for the late reply:


Block: 509 Casting GM std. to be bored to 406, no work done yet
Crank: Stock 509 400 std.
Rods: 6.0 Eagle 5140
Cam: TBD based on the intake of choice either a minram or Stealth ram w/custom plenum

 

[sscam69]

I would prefer to do it myself. I am mechanicaly inclined and an M.E. as well.

I love getting my hands dirty and learning something new. Being an engineer challenges shouldn't be new. Its an everyday thing! :L

I would just be a little cautious the first time around and check things twice and try and get as much information on clearances as possible prior to beginning.

What I have thought about doing is setup up a spreadsheet before I even start with all the clearances and proper dimensions. Having all the tools necessary is a good start.

I am almost as experienced as you. Removed heads, install springs in heads, swap cam, remove/install distributor (its easy trust me!), tune carb and install other stuff. In a few years I hope to be able to pretty much assemble a car from bumper to bumper literally.

Just take it a step at a time. You can't walk until you learn how to crawl. Mistakes are part of the learning process but if you take it in baby steps you should be alright.

I have learned that things aren't as hard as people make them to be sometimes

Frank

 

[sscam69]

and another thing

If you run into any snags just ask on the forum. There are a lot of people here who are experienced. Like Jack for example:L I am sure he won't mind you picking his brain.......just a little:L

 

[LD85]

I agree, I am in no rush and may just do it.

I have built million dollar automation assembly machines, a car motor can't be any harder.

I can operate a heli-arc welder, milling machine, and lathe. I have a full set of measuring tools, ID micrometers, Depth micrometers, essentially a full machinist tool roll around.

I have been reading dozens of books and articles and TPIS has been good enough to help me contruct my engine package, so I guess I will talk to my builder another time or two and see what happens.

 

[brew]

build it

Go to the book store and get your self one of those books on GM engine assemble manual. They havr them for small block or big bloke. It will walk you through tear down, cleaning ,and rebuild. It gives you all the steps and you can check off the steps as you go. Some times when rebuilding you take a break for a day or two and you may for get where you left off or( what timing chain you did not torque (this happened to me)). I paid about $15 dallors for one on my first engine it does come in handy. Plus I'm new to this forum but there are a lot of very knowledgeable people here that can help in any trouble you get into.