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Window just quit

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ghfun

Guest
On my 99 corvette convertible, one day the window went up and down fine, then one day it would not. I had to warning, no symptons, no noises or smell. Any thoughts? Thanks, ghfun@aol.com
 
Do you have any error codes on the DIC? That's the first place I would look.. After that have you checked the Fuses? I believe it is number 31 for the passenger door at least on a 03. Your owners manual should tell you which one. That's how I would start looking...

Good Luck
 
I checked the error codes and got b2282, 83,84 and 85 which are battery faults on both doors (nothing wrong with the passenger door) and that is it except U1064. Also I poped out the control panel and it looks fine, pulled the plug and replugged it. Is there a fuse for each window? I thought there was only a fuse for both windows combigned. Thank you



RedLdr1 said:
Do you have any error codes on the DIC? That's the first place I would look.. After that have you checked the Fuses? I believe it is number 31 for the passenger door at least on a 03. Your owners manual should tell you which one. That's how I would start looking...

Good Luck
 
According to my owners manual there is a fuse for each door... In a 2003 fuse 31 is the passenger door and 34 for the drivers door. There is also a comment that are Circuit Breakers protecting the power accessories but no specific listing of which one would cover the windows.. I would make sure they are all snug and seated all the way..
 
Window problem.

Geez, I just wrote a reply to this thread, my first, and when I sent it got a message I wasn't logged in and lost the whole thing. I'll try again.

I read a post where the writer said since the passenger window gets little use it gets stuck. He suggested closing the door while depressing the window button. He also recommended activating the windows frequently to keep them going.

I just experienced the driver side window stuck. I could hear a relay clicking when I pressed the button but no movement. The above suggestion did not work. After removing the door panel and Bose speaker I could view the window motor. I could also test it got both positive and negative voltage when pressing the up/down switch. So with the above suggestion in mind I hit the motor with the handle of a screwdriver. Bingo, it now works. Who knows for how long but for now I don't have to buy a motor.

DWW
 
Wow, How difficult is it to get the drivers door and speaker off to get to the motor? I can hear the same click, but nothing just like you. Would be great if it were just that. The windows do get used all the time though.



DWW said:
Geez, I just wrote a reply to this thread, my first, and when I sent it got a message I wasn't logged in and lost the whole thing. I'll try again.

I read a post where the writer said since the passenger window gets little use it gets stuck. He suggested closing the door while depressing the window button. He also recommended activating the windows frequently to keep them going.

I just experienced the driver side window stuck. I could hear a relay clicking when I pressed the button but no movement. The above suggestion did not work. After removing the door panel and Bose speaker I could view the window motor. I could also test it got both positive and negative voltage when pressing the up/down switch. So with the above suggestion in mind I hit the motor with the handle of a screwdriver. Bingo, it now works. Who knows for how long but for now I don't have to buy a motor.

DWW
 
Here's a great web page on how to remove the door panel.

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instructions/door_handles/door_handle.html

But before you do that...........they don't show you how to remove the switch assembly which should be done first and is really easy. Just pry it up from the bottom as you view the writing. Its just a pressure type clip. The top is a tab so pry up the bottom and pull the assembly away from the top. Now you can unplug it and put it aside. I never disconnected the battery throughout this whole process.

I didn't have the benefit of the web page at the time. I bought a door panel removal tool from a parts store that helps reach behind the door panel and pry away at the plastic pins. It would have helped if I knew where they were. I broke the metal clip on the reflector and one pin came out with the female half broken. Door panels are always a bear for me. I ordered a metal clip ($4.40) and a pack of ten plastic pins ($7.80). Once the door panel is removed disconnect the wire harness connector to the speaker assembly. The whole speaker assembly comes off with five or six screws. Look for the screws that appear to reach back to the door wall otherwise you'll be disassemblying the the speaker unit. Now you have a big hole where you can view the motor. My window gets used too but at this point I thought about the post I had read and thought, I wonder if a good rap would make it work. So I reconnected the switch assembly, put the keys in, put it in ACC, pushed the down switch and hit that sucker. Bingo. It's still working today. Hopefully it stays that way but at least now I know how to get to the motor. Replacing it can't be all that much harder. :)

DWW
 
Thank you so much for that site referance. IT is great. I will pop that off as soon as I get back in town and let you know.


DWW said:
Here's a great web page on how to remove the door panel.

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instructions/door_handles/door_handle.html

But before you do that...........they don't show you how to remove the switch assembly which should be done first and is really easy. Just pry it up from the bottom as you view the writing. Its just a pressure type clip. The top is a tab so pry up the bottom and pull the assembly away from the top. Now you can unplug it and put it aside. I never disconnected the battery throughout this whole process.

I didn't have the benefit of the web page at the time. I bought a door panel removal tool from a parts store that helps reach behind the door panel and pry away at the plastic pins. It would have helped if I knew where they were. I broke the metal clip on the reflector and one pin came out with the female half broken. Door panels are always a bear for me. I ordered a metal clip ($4.40) and a pack of ten plastic pins ($7.80). Once the door panel is removed disconnect the wire harness connector to the speaker assembly. The whole speaker assembly comes off with five or six screws. Look for the screws that appear to reach back to the door wall otherwise you'll be disassemblying the the speaker unit. Now you have a big hole where you can view the motor. My window gets used too but at this point I thought about the post I had read and thought, I wonder if a good rap would make it work. So I reconnected the switch assembly, put the keys in, put it in ACC, pushed the down switch and hit that sucker. Bingo. It's still working today. Hopefully it stays that way but at least now I know how to get to the motor. Replacing it can't be all that much harder. :)

DWW
 
This happened to me on the passenger side on my '03 Z06. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet, but will try the 'shut the door and hit the window switch trick' first.
 
When I bought my 99 the window did the same thing during the test drive. The dealer fixed it at the tune of over $800.00 to a Chevy dealer. A relay was bad as I remember. I know they had to disassemble the door to fix it. Good luck
 
Good lord $800.00. They told me at the dealer to replace the motor it cost like $450 plus labor. Then When I told them no, they charged me for taking the door panel off and putting it back on. I have never had a dealer charge me like that, for an estimate. I keep thinking it is not really the motor at all. If it is, that is a pretty poor piece of equipment to go out in 30K miles.


elsberry said:
When I bought my 99 the window did the same thing during the test drive. The dealer fixed it at the tune of over $800.00 to a Chevy dealer. A relay was bad as I remember. I know they had to disassemble the door to fix it. Good luck
 
Glad I'm still in warranty. I ass-ume it's covered under the factory warranty.
 
The chevy dealer said the motor is bad and needs to be replaced for like $450.00, and my mechanic friend, took the door panel off tapped the motor (as some of you suggested) and it is working great for a month now. So the motor was not bad and this problem is solved.
 
My driver side door became "stuck" exactly as you guys described....There were no DTC's displayed to indicate there was a problem with any module.....I could hear it "clicking" when I pressed the switch, but the window wouldn't move......I took it to the dealer, and they replaced the motor assy, under warranty....

Now, 7 months later, my passenger window is doing the SAME EXACT THING!......Still no DTC's popping up.....everything appears good!......Some days it will work, then others, it won't move.....Lately, it's stuck tight, and hasn't moved in 2 weeks.....I'm taking it to the dealer for warranty repair, again!.....
 
The only "real" way to verify the motor is bad is to put a voltmeter on the motor leads. If there is voltage to the motor, then the motor windings are open. If there is no voltage, then the relay is not powering the motor.
There are limit switches that stop the motor at the up and down position in the motor that could be sending a false disable signal to the control module that would keep the motor from running too that can only be fixed by replacing the motor assembly.
 
ghfun said:
On my 99 corvette convertible, one day the window went up and down fine, then one day it would not. I had to warning, no symptons, no noises or smell. Any thoughts? Thanks, ghfun@aol.com

I recently had that problem and read that slamming the door might break it loose. I did that and it has been working ever since. Maybe this was as good as "rapping on the motor"?
 
rwpeders said:
I recently had that problem and read that slamming the door might break it loose. I did that and it has been working ever since. Maybe this was as good as "rapping on the motor"?

What ever you do wont fix the problem its going to get worse.
 
ghfun said:
Good lord $800.00. They told me at the dealer to replace the motor it cost like $450 plus labor. Then When I told them no, they charged me for taking the door panel off and putting it back on. I have never had a dealer charge me like that, for an estimate. I keep thinking it is not really the motor at all. If it is, that is a pretty poor piece of equipment to go out in 30K miles.
My 03 has been doing that since new!! Rt Side!! Only when 80 + out side!! after I ride with A/C on 20-30 min. it start's Working!! Oh well It's at Dealership Now With a Grocery List to get fixed before Warranty Run's Out!! Been there two week's Now!!:W :W junk!!
 

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