Winter Storage

[jimmers]

I know I still have some time to drive the vette before it snows but I would just like one question cleared up. This will be my first winter storing the car and I have done alot of reading on the matter. One thing i'm not clear on is the fuel tank. I have read that it should be full with fuel stabilizer or ran dry. Apparently it should be ran dry to avoid deposits in the injectors. Which should i go with?
The car will be stored indoors for about 6-7 months.

 

[6 Shooter]

Here's a good read . . .

http://corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/care/storage.htmlhttp://corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/care/storage.html

 

[jimmers]

Thanks, but I read that one already. In there it says to have a full tank of gas so im kind of leaning that way because I trust the information on the site. Just curious to see what others think.

 

[C4VetteGuyOKC]

You need the full tank of gas to prevent condensation from forming. Fill it up, just as full as you can get it. 6 or 7 months isn't that long of a time for a car to sit. Next spring, dump a can or 2 of Heet in it before you start it, and you shouldn't have any problems. You'll propably want to start it, and let it run till it reaches operating temp. about every 3 or 4 weeks.

 

[Vettefan87]

I start mine up once a week to keep the seals from drying out. My car usually doesn't sit the whole winter, if it is a clean day and no snow im out driving it. Sitting is hard on the seals.

 

[vetteboy86]

Yes, I fill my tank, and start the car every two weeks or sooner. I occasional will move the car, from getting flat spots on the tires.

Now a days, that is not so much of a problem if storage is just for 5 or so months. THe tires are better, However I have seen places that will get really cold, in which this could be a problem. Most times that will come out anyways when you drive it.

 

[BarryK]

as mentioned, fill the tank as full as possible to avoid condensation.
Unless you are going to take the car out and drive it for at least 20 mintues I would NOT start it during winter storage - your best bet is to buy one of those Battery Minders to keep the charge up. By starting the car and not DRIVING it for at least 20 minutes you will have and retain moisture in the exhaust system and rust it out in a few short years - just letting it idle in the garage will not be enough to clear all the moisture out of the system before you shut it down again plus you are also lowering the fuel in the tank inviting condensation in. 5-6 months is not that long to have to worry about dried out seals, gaskets, flat spots on tires, etc.
I have a article on my website about winter storage you are welcome to read and download. It mainly was written about C1/C2 models but the info is perfectly fine on your C4 also as the basics stay the same
The link to the tech section of my website is:
http://69.240.140.212/page1/page65/page65.html
The article is called: Winter Storage.PDF
click on it to read it or right click on it if you want to download it.

 

[vetteboy86]

I was under the impression that you should start it every once in a while, to keep the motor lubricated. If the car sits over two or three months you have to prime the oil system. Is this not correct.

 

[BarryK]

not needed or desirable. only start it if you plan on taking it out and driving it. Starting a motor is the biggest single wear on an engine. For the relatively short time of winter storage (4-6 months on average depending where you live) letting the motor sit will not harm it at all and the act of starting it just to "lubricate" things will cause more wear on it than any benefit of lubricating it will gain you.
If it's a year or less just prep the car as the paper discribes, fill the fuel tank, keep the battery charged and leave it alone until spring time

 

[Edmond]

I start mine up once a week to keep the seals from drying out. My car usually doesn't sit the whole winter, if it is a clean day and no snow im out driving it. Sitting is hard on the seals.

That's the same thing I do. And if the roads aren't good enough for me to drive it, I'll at least run it up to operating temp in the garage so get the fluids flowing.

 

[vett boy]

I'm from Maine and got tired of watching the car sitting in a heated garage with snow piled up to the eves.6mons. is a long time.So i store mine in a very nice secure spot in Orlando.I fly down once or twice per month and away we go.I'll do a post next month on how i do it . Me and the car talked it over we're leaving Nov 11th.We're all done with this winter crap !

 

[tnovot]

not needed or desirable. only start it if you plan on taking it out and driving it. Starting a motor is the biggest single wear on an engine. For the relatively short time of winter storage (4-6 months on average depending where you live) letting the motor sit will not harm it at all and the act of starting it just to "lubricate" things will cause more wear on it than any benefit of lubricating it will gain you.
If it's a year or less just prep the car as the paper discribes, fill the fuel tank, keep the battery charged and leave it alone until spring time

Barry -
I totally agree. If you are not going to drive it for at least 1/2 hour, leave it sit. Startups, especially on a cold engine, cause the majority of wear.
Put a battery tender on it to keep a full charge.
I recently rebuilt a 4 bolt 350 that had been sitting in my garage for over 2 years. The main and rod journals still had an oil film. Of course all seals and gaskets were replaced but I certainly would not worry about lack of lubrication of an engine sitting for several months.
Priming the oil system would be required only on a new/rebuilt engine but not to an engine during or following winter storage. On an engine that has been previously run, the filter will stay full during storage and the oil pump pickup screen is sitting in oil if the crankcase is full so that should not be a concern either. Oil pressure will come up almost immediately upon restart.
And yes, condensation in the oil itself and in the exhaust system could be troublesome and is something that a lot of guys don't think of.
Is it possible that some guys are so fanatical about caring for their cars and love their cars so much, they take unnecessary action(s) that can actually be harmful? Na-a-a, that couldn't happen. Could it?

 

[vetteboy86]

I dont think we would do that, just perhaps mis informed as to what to do. I am going to research it, and if I have to let it sit, then that is easier for me.

 

[steelblue75]

I agree with BarryK only i pull the battery & store it in the basement, giving it a top-up charge once a month. also put fabric softener sheets thru out the interior to keep the little critters out.

 

[BarryK]

And if the roads aren't good enough for me to drive it, I'll at least run it up to operating temp in the garage so get the fluids flowing.

you are doing more harm than good that way.......
unless you plan on DRIVING it for a minimum of 20 minutes or so don't start it.
bringing it up to operating temperture means nothing as it's not enough to eliminate all the condensation and moisture from the exhaust system and you will eventually rot it out not to mention the wear on the motor just from starting it.
You are creating more wear on the motor than any benefit you are gaining (which is none at all) by starting it up.
Winter STORAGE is just that - STORAGE.
If it's stored, LEAVE IT ALONE, otherwise, take it out and drive it.

 

[BarryK]

I agree with BarryK only i pull the battery & store it in the basement, giving it a top-up charge once a month. also put fabric softener sheets thru out the interior to keep the little critters out.

pulling the battery and keeping it in a warm place and keeping the charge up is fine also. For a lot of people this would be a better option so they aren't tempted to just "start it up to keep it lubricated" :eyerole

On the older cars like my C2 it's a PITA to pull the battery so I leave it in and keep a battery minder on it.

 

[Steve Calvin]

I guess I'm in the majority for a change! Boy is that unusual! Don't start it.
I learned that from riding motorcycles.

Add gas stabilizer to the tank, fill it up and run it for around 15 minutes.
Change the oil and filter, put mothballs around the engine compartment to keep mice at bay. Put a moisture absorbing bag inside. Ball up some aluminum foil and put it in each tailpipe, then cover the tailpipes with a sandwich bag and secure with a rubber band (again, for mice). Connect a Battery Tender Plus, put the cover on it and that's it until spring.

This article is for motorcycles but a motor is a motor so those aspects of the article still apply. http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

 

[jester]

I also give mine a fresh oil change so any accumulated gunk isn't sitting in there all winter and I run the tire pressure up to the maximum rating to help keep them from getting flat spots.

 

[BarryK]

I also give mine a fresh oil change so any accumulated gunk isn't sitting in there all winter and I run the tire pressure up to the maximum rating to help keep them from getting flat spots.

excellent things to do and also happen to be listed on the list i referenced to look at on my site. also, the "life" of fresh oil does not run if you change it just before storing the car so it also saves you having to do it in the following spring when it's time to take the car back out of storage.

 

[jimmers]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Your responces really helped. That article was very useful BarryK, thank you!