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Need a brake expert!!!

T

tdr1919

Guest
My original problem seemed to be the power booster, after about 500 miles on new pads & rotors, my pedal got hard and it was difficult to stop the car.
there was also this loud woosh sound of vacuum leaking from the power booster, after removing the the booster I noticed brake fluid weeping from the M/C, so I changed both with "remanufactured" booster & M/C. I bled the
m/c and the system, all new dot 3. I jacked the car and rotated each tire testing for caliper lock and made sure when brake applied each wheel would
stop (engine off). when I start the engine the pedal will drop far enough to
turn on the brake lites, when I goose the engine the pedal rises and the light
goes off. BUT when I apply the brake pedal It will go down and rise slowly sometimes not all the way up (brake lights stay on). Engine vacuum at idle
is a steady 18". An ex-mechanic stated when I described the problem he said it has been his experience that remanufactured boosters are about 50% good, and that this one is probably bad. HELP!
Tom
 
I'd say that the air is not all out of the system!!:upthumbs junk!!
 
Thats what it sounds like to me. Start bleeding the lines starting at the wheel furthest from the M/C and work towards it.
And jack the Rear of the Car as Far Up as Possible!!:upthumbs
 
A vacuum bleeder would be nice. With ABS it can be very difficult to purge the air.
 
Guys Thanks for all your help - I pulled the M/C and started the car, i noticed
the booster extended all the way out as if some one had their foot on the brake, I temporarily connected the old booster and it remained at a neutral position, when i pushed the brake side it extended (but I could hear the vacuum leak) I returned the new booster and got a replacement. Before I installed it I tested it with the vacuum connected, it stayed in a neutral position, when I pushed the brake side it extended as it should. Put everything back together and it works fine!
Thanks,
Tom
 

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