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HOW TO REMOVE CATS FROM PCM

shulamite

Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
12
Location
south florida
Corvette
02 A4 Roadster
How can I remove the catalytic convertors from reporting codes. I receive codes 1153 since changing to a Dynamaxx long tube headers sys. I've tried everything, everyone has suggested on various forums over the last 18 months. I understand what this code means. I have the service manual and understand it. I know I can pay someone with LS1 Edit to remove cats from reporting. Is there any hand held retail programmer that can accomplish what I need? All the shops want 4-5 hundred to do a complete tune. The 02 LS1 A4 runs like I want it to now. I not a fan of letting someone else work on my car. Any ideas will be appreciated. ----- air intake screens--dual KN air filters--Dynamaxx long tube header, high flow cats, Y-pipe--02 ZO6 Titanium exhaust--ZO6 size LS1 chrome wheels w/ Michelin ZO6 size Pilots
 
Hi there,
You remove it by having someone with intimate knowledge of tuning reprogram the PCM accordingly to do this.
Yes, your paying for the knowledge and the equipment to do this correctly.
Personally, Callaway headers are the only true emissions 50 state legal system and even those headers COME WITH A COMPLETE PCM RETUNE.
Allthebest, c4c5:hb
 
There's no hand-held programmer which can disable any portion of the on-board diagnostics.

You need someone who's good at programming work or you need to buy HP Tuners and learn yourself.

If you're interested in programming services, the one I've used for years is Z-Industries.
http://www.z-industries.com/
 
How can I remove the catalytic convertors from reporting codes. I receive codes 1153 since changing to a Dynamaxx long tube headers sys.

The installation of the long tube headers will give you a rich +/-12.5:1 A/F ratio. If you take it in for a dyno tune, you could get the A/F back to 13.1:1 and realize the full power of your LT installation. At the same time have the codes permanently deleted. Otherwise, you are going to be running rich and have a car that can't pass an emissions inspection.
 
I not a fan of letting someone else work on my car.

Unfortunately you are at the point where you will need a tuner.
You will also need to pull the air pump fuse from the fuse center located in the engine bay on the passenger side. With long tube headers, you need to block off and blind flange the air pump tubing fitting. Remove all the associated air pump tubing. This will make changing sparkplugs a 15 minute job. These are all the other to do items if not done already.
 
Hi there,
You remove it by having someone with intimate knowledge of tuning reprogram the PCM accordingly to do this.
Yes, your paying for the knowledge and the equipment to do this correctly.
Personally, Callaway headers are the only true emissions 50 state legal system and even those headers COME WITH A COMPLETE PCM RETUNE.
Allthebest, c4c5:hb
ahh, yea but, I put Dyna Tech LT's on my 98 and within 3 weeks had to car the car in for its annual inspection, which includes emmissions test. Passed with no problems. So, personnaly, there are other LT's out there that are emmission compliant. IMHO
 
Mine passed too, but I have FLP headers. They no longer do the sniffer tests in my area, now it's plugging into the OBDII port (which works for me because I have EfiLive and can fix/tune out the codes ;) ).

The only problem with the headers is if you put in the off road pipes (test tubes), then you've got to delete the rear 02 sensors in the computer.
 
Actually, No.
Here is why.
The fact of the diagnostics that the PCM runs for converter checking is ONLY under certain conditions. If you do NOT drive in those conditions, the codes will NOT set.
Diagnostics is very specific.
Also, if the converters are NOT hot enough, codes will set, because the converters are NOT HOT ENOUGH to catalize the exhaust gas emissions.
If you are starting and jumping right on the highway or WOT stop light to stop light, you may not EVER set these codes.
Shutting off the diagnostics is a patch for headers that do NOT meet specs.
Plug and play emissions test are now common place.
You can mask and PASS if you drive your vehicle a certain way.
Allthebest, :hb
 
You might want to check your install for exhaust leaks as they can trip a code too. If you still have the cats on, you don't delete the cats, you turn off the rear 02 sensors. These sensor thell the ECM that the cats are working correctly. If the cats weren't good, it'd smell like rotten eggs and you'd know they were bad anyway. I have no idea if this'd fix your problem or not. Just giving some suggestions. Good Luck!:beer
 
there is more!

I have installed 02 simulators at the rear sensors, and have moved rear sensors to the forward position with the help of LG motorsports adapters. The car could runs extremely well since adding all the breathing apparatus listed elsewhere. Major seat of the pants improvement. The bosch platinum 4 tips show perfect color after 12 months of driving with the code 1153 set. There are no leaks. I reset code and about the third time the ignition is fired up the code resets. I hate mysteries!
 
I have installed 02 simulators at the rear sensors, and have moved rear sensors to the forward position with the help of LG motorsports adapters. The car could runs extremely well since adding all the breathing apparatus listed elsewhere. Major seat of the pants improvement. The bosch platinum 4 tips show perfect color after 12 months of driving with the code 1153 set. There are no leaks. I reset code and about the third time the ignition is fired up the code resets. I hate mysteries!

Could your sims be bad? It's been known to happen. Why exactly did you put the rear 02's up front? I heard that they are a little quicker reacting, but don't know if that's true or not. I'm just curious.
 
1153 is right rear 02. I must have a bad sim. No way to tell. I did have 1133 which is right front, so LG said many people moved the rears to front and they sold me converters. What I need is some one close who has LS1 Edit. They can remove the 02's from the program and get the last little bit from the car. I live in Delray Beach and the closes tuner is in Dania. If it wasn't for the irritating "check engine" light, I would be extremely happy with the way the car runs.
 
First I was using the factory 02's. They almost worked as the ck eng light would come and go, and could be cleared for long periods. The I got the idea that maybe the right side had been damaged in the lth install, so I purchased Bousch replacements. That made things worse. I have not had the car tuned yet.
 
If you tune it using LTFT's/STFT's, that'll work alright until WOT, that's when you need the WB02 sensor. I did my part throttle using the trims, but haven't done the WOT part yet (which is actualy easier than make it driveable). My buttometer definitely says taht I picked up something. Mileage went up a mpg or two and throttle response is better. Now I need a WB02 or some dyno time to get WOT set.

Who's going to tune it for you? Your profile says you're in S. Fl. NLP is in in Florida and Mike Norris does good work, and so is Dino at Rev Xtreme, and if I'm not mistaken Jeremy Formato is too (but could be wrong). These are the guys that I've heard that do Excellent work. You might want to ask them about tuning it out. This is probably nothing for them. You Definitely want it done with a wideband though.

Good Luck
 

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