Of those, The oval. Not the C-2/3 air cleaner...... looks wrong on an older Hot Rod. Actually, 3 small round units would look the best IMO (more like the Hot Rods of the day?).
Another option is to weld small boss on the manifold, alum is really easy to work with, with a little work/skill it'll look factory. I've done that, as well as drilling a small hole and inserting a small section of alum tube and then sealing it with a small/neat fillet weld (cutting it flush...
maybe some day one of us with a stock engine will check it on the dyno and get some hard data....
however, i just talked to a stock 425HP drag racer last week....... he said the 2.5" core side pipes made a consistant 1.5 MPH difference in the 1/4 (over the original spec 1 7/8" core...
Why even consider synthetic? You'll change oil due to age/contamination long before the oil is "worn out"..... the only real benefit of synthetic (longer life).
I'd go with Rotella 15-40 for general use..... and Valvoline Racing oil for HD use with heavy valve springs and flat tappets.
BTW...
i noticed your post...........
i understand the leakage comes from cracks around the terminals. and the cracks are the result of over tightening, or, a design that results in cracks with very little wrench force (i.e. not a real sturdy design).
you can't be serious?!?..... you're talking about a 4 year old used car.
get the ring upgrade job..... it's not a big deal at all, you may have to pay for it out of your pocket though (since you waited so long to deal with it)
if you're not the type to do it yourself.... shop around and...
Tip:
Take a look at German Castrol Syntec 0w30 (actually viscosity is more like 0w40)
or
Mobil 1 European 0w40
Both are EXCEPTIONAL oils
If you do enough research, you'll end up there :-) .....you can buy both at Auto Zone
interesting....... after considering all the colors, i always end up with Black (the last 3 C'vettes i've bought, for general use/driving were Black/Black Leather). and i'd say I fit the above profile to a T.
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