I've seen starter advertisments that say you could use "such and such" starter on SB motors with either the 150 ish or 160 ish flexplate. How can the same starter engage both a 12.x" flexplate and the larger 14" flexplate? This is probably a simple question:ugh
What are you guys that put crate motors in doing about a tachometer? Swaping a tach drive distributor in or running with an add-on unit on the steering column? Thanks, Fred
I hope I'll finish this project this year :W. I decided to put the 355 hp ZZ4 in her and keep (for the time being) the OEM 350/300 on the side for an evential rebuild. This way I can run the krap out of it and not worry about it - I guess;).
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:thumb:thumb Thanks buds for your help. What I did the other day following the KISS principal was the following:
I got into the car and "hit" the brakes hard about a dozen times with the motor off.
I jacked up one side and found out that :upthumbs the wheel spun OK. I jacked up the other...
I bled the brakes on the '67 the other day:cool. When taking both front wheels off to access the bleeder screws, I noticed an abnormal "resistance" when I tried to spin the wheels:ohnoes. Now, I don't drive this vehicle too frenquently and have had it a long time. Even with front discs, the...
or should I say, lack of:L. Things have been moving along, however slowly. Yesterday I (finally) finished cleaning up and painting the frame. That is a job I don't want to do again. The gas tank is out and awaiting replacement with a new one. New body mounts and brake lines have been put in. The...
I know it cannot be done with body on frame and body off is the way to go but I'm doing body mounts, the one side at a time way, so in the process could I raise the passenger side enough to get the lines on without cutting them? I've done the brake lines without too much cursing. Doing the lines...
I know this is an old post but FWIW, I've just done this while replacing my body mounts and thought I'd post my observation.
I don't think you can replace the brake line without at least raising the body up a couple of inches. This is because you cannot get at (2 at least) bolts that hold the...
Put the new f/r brake line in (well, almost 'cept for getting the rear junction block thru "that" hole). Now onward to the drivers side and the new fuel lines and those body mounts :ugh
Thanks Jim,
I still have to finish cleaning up and painting the D/S frame rails before I put the new f/r brake line in. Then, as you suggest, I'll put in loosely the bolts for #2 and #3 body mounts - then move on to the passenger side - clean up and paint those frame rails so I can put the new...
Mike,
Would that put undo stress on the body? I think I would have to get the whole body raised at once to do that. I'm only able to do one side at a time. That body isn't going to budge raising only that side.
Hi Mikey,
The holes on the frame and body are larger than the body mount hole - so I would be able to move the body mount to allow the bolt to go thru all 3 points.
Fred
After raising the D/S and cleaning up the frame, the line up for #1 isn't exact. In the photo below, the mount is positioned properly but the body hole where the bolt goes thru is off. Can I just move the mount to match the hole in the body bracket? But then the protrusion will be sitting on the...
:rotfl I'm gunna be needing a boat lode of stuff to get my princess done. How do I find out about those :thumb discounts. Do I come right out and ask ;shrug.
:thumb I sincerely appreciate everyone's input:beer.
I've put them out of the equation - so now it's rubber or poly. Suprisingly, after 90K or so miles and being in the car for 40 years, the original rubber bushings still don't look too bad. Nuts came right off. Biggest advantage of poly at...
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