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:thumb Something that gives the solid aluminum mounted C3 an even rougher ride :beer. In all seriousness, I have to find out more about the product hopefully from someone who has installed them. Majority concensus at this point is to use rubber and accept its shortcomings. Thanks, Fred:w

Yup, the spindle is in the way and what a PITA job it is to do emergency brake shoe replacement with the spindle on:mad.

Hi Hib, Street

These are metal not aluminum. Thought these might be the best alternative over rubber or poly. It's a street car and any added harshness wouldn't be an issue with me. Anyone tried these? Thanks as always, Fred:) - Guldstrand Motorsport

Geeze 2006 this post started:chuckle, time sure goes by slow doesn't it:eyerole. Project was stalled till July of last year at which point I started stripping the paint (no chemicals) off the body. Spent about a month's worth of spare time on it. Got back into it in February or so of this year...

need complete setup except actuators for a 1969. PM with condition and price, Thanks.:thumb

Not sure about the '81's but with a '69 350, the hydralics are easily (but messy) adjusted. With a warmed up engine you take the valve covers off. Back off each rocker nut slowly (do the full adjustment for one lifter at a time) till it starts clicking, then the recommended procedure is to "S L...

Me either. After having the front end "done" in 1974, I returning it to stock (hopefully soon:eyerole)and a repaint. I have received last week the PM front surround and am waiting for the fenders. I do have 3" half shafts, VBP rotors, tie rod sleeves and heym rear camber adjusters, but other...

New lower hoses nowadays don't have the spring in many instances. I've read that they aren't needed cause materials are better than before. Possibly, but we're just talking rubber hoses and I don't know what technoligy they could have instilled that would make them better. In any event, I just...

Unless you entend to "keep it forever," I'd go original.

Painting is an exciting time. Good luck:cool

Holy smokes, is that every black:thumb

You have to be careful tightening. Just enough, not too much. You can always tighten more, but once you strip (and it's real easy to do) UR screwed. Start by having clean threads and hand tighten, they go with the flare wrench - but, just enough ;).

I want it, I want it, I want it, etc. etc :cool :thumb

****sucker(s):mad. I'll keep Long Island covered. Hope it's found unhurt.

I agree with going no higher than 3.70 with a 2.20 1st gear. I think from the factory with the CR box, it was either 3.70 or 4.11. I made a big mistake once with a '68 GTO and a CR box, going from a 3.90 to a 3.36 rear. Lost the whole performance with the car. I think the real solution is a 6...

Thanks muddy:thumb What's with the doors on this project. Do they have to come off:W.

IMO, but I'm talking with no experience;shrug, I was thinking a preassembled would be harder.

Any experts out there:confused. For someone who hasn't done it before;shrug, how long would you expect :chuckle this person to get the old front clip off and then how long to hang a press molded (3 section, top surround, + fenders) replacement. Exclude pre-prep and paint time on the new section...

If they had any experts, maybe they wouldn't have OP which to me equates to a bush league paint job. Sorry, no excuse for OP any way you look at it.:mad