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TC-Torque Converter When it locks, all the power is sent thru the driveline, in 84-86 its set at 2000rpm, so the car wont jump until it gets to 2K rpm. It'll feel like its not responding. It wont shift out of your power band in a tight autox, leaving it in 2 wont do anything different.

Performance Friction Z

Leave it in D in both cases. Timeslips in the autocrosses dont really show any differences between manual shifting it and leaving in D. Tricky thing about autox with an early C4 is the TC, its at 2K and youll feel like the car isnt responding when you slam the throttle. You dont want to shift...

Ive seen one on a Group II car in NCCC auto'xing. Of course, his sprung a leak during a lap and the car caught fire and he lost it.Dont mean to scare you.:D But I have seen exactly what you describe.

32-35psi cold is what you should run for driving.

If I remember correctly, its 2.5 turns lock/lock for a Z51 car. Its something like 2.75 lock/lock for non-Z51. I used to know the ratio, but I forgot and I cant find it anywhere, someone will know. Yes its a rack&pinion power assist for all of us.

The D44 will handle that amount of power. They can handle slicks on cars running 9's, so I believe youll be ok. Cryo-treating would make it even a little tougher.

Neh, it doesnt do anything harmful on the L98, most people show gains with the screens removed. So they are more of a restriction than anything. It doesnt help the LT1 engine though, actually it can hurt the LT1.

Only downside is possibly hurting the element inside. Don't overoil a K&N and dont let it run without a filter, and you shouldnt ever have that problem.

You dont have to get taller covers, but the drip tabs need to be filed down for clearance. Get full rollers if you want the power gains.

Just remember to burp the system when you change thermostats, and be careful getting the thermostat out, the small screws on the housing get brittle over the years and can break while you pull them out.

If it goes over 240 you need to keep a close eye on it with aluminum heads. They will blow a head gasket with extended running if they stay over 250-260. So if it ever gets that hot, pull over and cut the engine.

I hope no one is dumb enough to believe they'll get 20hp from adding an inch between the plenum and TB. Do you think you could get 40 from 2"? Perhaps 60 from 3"? This thing will probably give 1-2 ft-lbs of torque and a corresponding LOSS in HP.

Yes its a D36. It will be fine for most street applications. Depends on how much torque you want to put through it, though anything in the low 400s 'should' be ok for any street driving. Just know that if you take it to the track, its gonna blow anytime it feels like.

Its probably the bushings somewhere. They all make some type of creaking noise.

If you search enough, you can find horror stories on both intakes. Only one problem comes to mind with the MR, and I havent seen it lately, is that they were having some type of fuel/air distribution to the rear cylinders, and ended up cooking pistons.

No the suspension geometry changed in 88, but is the same thereafter. GM decided to go a different route than they had the 84-87 years. They were using stiff springs to give handling, and in 88 they changed their philosophy to geometry changes and bigger swaybars and improved alignments to...

You need to pick a final HP goal and try to stick to it. That will determine the best course of action. However, I think a ZZ9 would work just fine for any of the 3 intakes (SR, MR, modded TPI), if youre on a time deadline on getting it together. It just may not work 'best' with SR or MR.

The problem is routing everything, Ive seen it done, but its expensive and theres hardly any room as it is. Easier to put a SC on it.

I'm sorry but you didnt get 12hp, not even close.