383 vs. 396

[Edmond]

I've decided that at the end of this year; I'm going to tear the car apart and rebuild it. I'm going to go all out: cam, heads, intake, whole exhaust from headers to mufflers, gears, etc...

I have 101,xxx on the clock and I've wanted to do this for quite a while. It's a 4 speed auto and I want performance.

I was looking at TPIS's catalog and see that they have kits for 383's and 396's. I'm not sure on exactly what I want to do but I do know that an increase in displacement is for sure.

Besides for 13 cubic inches, what are the differences between the 383 and 396? It seems the most popular choice is the 350, followed by the 383, but I don't recall seeing 396 kits.

 

[CKA_Racing]

Go all out... http://www.theengineshop.com/engine.shtml
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0108gmhtp_motown/
Just kidding.


Call these guys up for info. They are pretty good and will take the time to speak with you. http://www.moreperformanceinc.com/

 

[Edmond]

Steve,

Have you bought from More Performance before? Any comments on them?

 

[RonRed89]

Generally, you're going to get more torque and HP out of the 396 combo. If you are on a tight budget, the 396 is not for you as generally all of the rotating assemblies are all forged parts. If you planned to build an all forged 383, then building the same motor with 396cid will only be several hundred dollars more in machining.

You can really make some terrific numbers with the 396 combo, so as with any other big inch combo, make sure that you have the rest of your driveline up to par (tranny, rear end) otherwise, you will blow them to pieces with the new torque.

As for MORE Performance, a truly class act shop. I cannot say enough good things about them. Give Mike Osucha (the president) a call and he will be happy to talk about your various options with you.

Good luck,

Ron

 

[vader86]

The real difference is in your budget.

396 is as far as you can go on the stock block, further would not be good.
They almost always use forged internals, but the thing is that a street engine doesnt really need a forged crank, so thats almost a waste of money. (unless you have something nasty in mind)

You also will have to pick the intake to go with it. Torque wont be a problem with a Miniram on a 396, and the MR can flow for it if you have the right heads.

Superram will need the right heads, but the actual runners MAY need some slight porting if you pick a cam on the bigger side of 219. (on a 396, on a 383 it shouldnt need porting)

If you plan on keeping the A4, plan also to rebuild it within a year after putting either in, the torque is going to really kill it. (though a cooler will prolong it) The rear may follow a year or so after, depending on how much you drag. If you only drag rarely, it might last a long time.

 

[Edmond]

vader,

I do plan on keeping the A4. I know that the A4 will have to be beefed up regardless. I also plan on doing the rear, possibly something in the 3.73 neighborhood.

As for budget, this is going to be a 5-6 month ongoing project so the money spent would be spread out.

I don't know if the Mini Ram will fit my needs because you're saying that Mini Rams are better suited for M6 cars. I do like the low end power of the Super Ram but I don't like the horror stories I've heard.


I really like this scenario:

• 

  Dart Pro One Aluminum Cylinder Heads- various intake runner and valve sizes available.
  ​
• More Performance valve job and blending.
  ​
• Also includes Stainless steel valves
  ​
• Comp Cams 7/16 screw in studs and hardened guide plates
  ​
• More Performance Custom Hydraulic Roller camshaft- various grinds to choose from depending on emission requirements, driving stlye and cubic inches
  ​
• 52 mm throttle body (exchange basis) with machined in airfoil
  ​
• Comp Pro Magnum 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms
  ​
• Hardened Pushrods
  ​
• Top End gasket set- includes head, intake, timing cover, valve cover, header, and throttle body gaskets
  ​
• Custom Computer chip package
  Price for above components: $3,100.00​

The car would be used for daily driving. I'm more of a low end torque kind of guy than a high HP guy. But I would like to take her out to the 1/4 and see what she can do.​

 

[-=Jeff=-]

Edmond good plan..

I would almost try to get a spare block for the build up so yours is not apart for the duration..

Also fo rthe trans take it to Chuck Johnson at Finish Line Performance.. He is the BEST in the area.. FLP is in Naperville.. www.flp2win.com

Also when you get ready to by the motor, find out what gear will work well with it. I would also not discount the Miniram either, it you go 396 the miniram will still have plenty of torque.

 

[UB2 SLOW]

More is an outstanding company. I have bought allot of stuff from them. There customer service is great. A word of advice. Get a Dana 44 if you dont have it already. The torque from a 396 is about 480-500rwtq or more. That will rip a D36 apart after a few runs.

 

[ShaneL]

I am also considering an engine upgrade and have the LT1/4L60E/Dana 36 2.59 combo and am upgrading to a Dana 44 with 3.73 gears from http://www.ikerds.com I emailed them about the swap and they quoted me $2500 for all of the parts that I would need. Here's a copy of the email. (No one will send me any spam right?, RIGHT? )

LEE PARRIS



YOU NEED 4 PIECES, DIFF, REAR COVER, SUPPORT BEAM, AND DRIVE SHAFT TO MAKE THE SWAP FROM THE D-36 TO THE D-44. THE SIDE TO SIDE PARTS WILL WORK OK WITH THE D-44 SWAP. IF YOU BUY A DRUM TO DRUM SET UP YOU WILL GET A USED DIFF AND NO COICE OF GEAR RATIOS, I CAN SELL YOU A D-44 EXC SET UP AND YOUR CHOICE OF RATIOS, FOR $2500.00 EXCHANGE IF YOU ARE INTERESTED.



THANKS PAT



-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Parris [mailtoarris@sc.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 4:47 PM
To: custserv@ikerds.com
Subject: Dana 44 Differential



I would like to know the steps involved in doing a swap on a Dana 36 differential in a 1996 auto vette to a Dana 44. I was going to buy the complete assembly and just get a shorter driveshaft. Is this all that is required? Thank you for your time.





Thanks again,


Nathan

I am also going to try to beef up the transmission but at the moment I am clueless as to what needs to be done or where I can go or if I can find another auto tranny that can handle around 600 to 650 Hp/Tq from the flywheel. I plan to get as close to 500 Hp/Tq at the rear as possible. The current engine I am running has 120,000 miles plus some change on it and I am concerned about using it again.

Saw this on http://www.beckracingengines.com/ under their engine options page. They also have others listed but it kept screwing up the format of the lists.

[font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]TCI 4L80E Capable of Handling 750FT #s of Torque w/an Overdrive. Kit Includes Tranny, Convertor, Computer & Wiring Harness. [font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Starting at $3995.00[/font]
[/font]

 

[Edmond]

I'm liking the prospect of More Performance. They see to customize whatever you want. I like the fact that they have the block and you pick and choose your intake with a cam to meet your emissions requirements.

 

[RonRed89]

$4K for that TCI trans is a lot. You could get your trans rebuilt with enough good parts to withstand the 396's torque as well as a new high-stall TC for much less than the 4K price.

Ron

 

[vader86]

vader,

I don't know if the Mini Ram will fit my needs because you're saying that Mini Rams are better suited for M6 cars. I do like the low end power of the Super Ram but I don't like the horror stories I've heard.

If you search enough, you can find horror stories on both intakes.

Only one problem comes to mind with the MR, and I havent seen it lately, is that they were having some type of fuel/air distribution to the rear cylinders, and ended up cooking pistons.