Yes, thats quite normal for a car that has no cooling modifications.
But you may have the space between the condensor and radiator plugged up with road debris, that would affect temps by about 10 degrees if it was really plugged.
Technically, the TPI system is a multiport injection system, both use a batch-fire setup. Its called "tuned port" because of the intake design being "tuned" for high port velocity at lower rpms.
Just call it an LT1/4.
Helm=GM, they are the same manual.
Chilton's and others may be good for a couple things, and pictures, however the instructions are best from Helm, 98% of the time.
Normal for an L98 would be 210-230 for coolant and about 15F hotter for oil.
Optimum would be 200-210oil and 15F cooler for the coolant.
Mine runs at about that range.
There are several tests, but none that I believe because each one i've read was done by a potentially biased party using methods that aren't strictly adhered to.
Usually they'll compare M1 in a 4-cyl and RP in an 8 and try to tell you something is better about one or the other.
http://www.superchevyperformance.com/brakes/c5brakes.asp
I have it, do not buy from Vettebrakes or Ecklers, buy from Superior Chevy. Its a real upgrade.
However, you will need a special adapter bracket, that I bought from Ed Salinas. Electro-dynamics charges too much for it...
If you want real high rpm power, then the MR is for you. It would require a cam change to ZZ9 or bigger, and then headwork or new heads to get all the potential out of the engine. It will cost you some low-end power, its a midrange/high rpm intake. Thats why alot of people end up changing their...
A bigger engine would need a cam thats suited to it and also to emissions, and then you'd need the right tuner to program the chip so that it would pass the sniffer.
GM crates usually come with carb setup manifolds, so you would need to change the manifold to something like Accel or TPiS BigMouth.
Then either put the Superram on it, which is what you should do if you want power.....or put the old TPI-style on it. Everything bolts up.
Usually the 383 is made by boring the cylinder .030" and adding a 3.75" crank, which comes factory in the 400 block with its large main journal.
Nowadays they make the larger stroked crank with the medium journal so that doesnt require machining, all that needs to be done is some block...
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