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Does anyone have suggestions on how to remove the differential and rear spring while the body is off the frame? I understand that without the weight of the body, it could make the process somewhat challenging. I'm a bit confused. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Ralph

The body is pretty stout, but the nose will need to be secured. I used two tie-down straps - attaching them diagonally-- one side connected to the hood-release spring and the other side connected to a radiator core support bolt (criss-crossed). My biggest obstacle was removing the two #4 rear...

With a limited time-frame yesterday (son had a hockey game), I started on the chassis prep - soda-blasting followed-up with a power wash. It started to look like a winter wonderland in my driveway. I was only really able to get to the drive-train, and leaf spring. Ralph

As long as it runs well, and there's no serious rust/damage, I would go for it... Ralph

Thanks Mike and Hib, Thank you -- that did the trick! Ralph

Another genius move of mine! I have the body off the frame, but forgot to release the parking brake. The brakes are 'loose' enough to roll the chassis, but too tight to rotate the rear wheels by hand when on jack stands. Yes, these needed to be adjusted beforehand - but I never did it. I...

I got the body completely off the frame and onto the body cart. I managed to do this by myself - whew. I built the body cart from the design provided in the Noland Adams body lift workbook.

Mike, So 337 is the job number? Interesting. Is the consecutive unit number the last part of the VIN? If so, my number is 10859.

Hi Peter, No, I had to stop a few time and un-hook a couple items. When I finally went to transfer the body to the dolly, I found I had also missed the ground cable from the battery box! Frame appears okay. I do have one area that needs to be repaired. It's that common area at left rear...

Gerry, I wish! I suppose the main treasure would have been on top of the gas tank. Nothing there but dust...

It's been nearly a year since I did any bodywork on my Vette. Since I have the car pretty-much stripped down to nothing, I decided to go all the way, and do the off-frame resto. I was able to remove 5 of the 8 mounts without problems; the other three had to be cut. Some final disconnections...

John, Thank you - very helpful info as always! I can now order a new clutch. Since I'm going pretty much stock with the rebuild, I'm ordering a Sachs as I understand they're pretty good. Progress has been slow... but had a perfect evening.... got home painted the final coat on the...

Hi Everybody, It's been a while since I've posted - busy life. So here's my question: What size clutch, flywheel, and damper do I need for a 427/390? I see there are 10.4" and 11" clutches. I pulled the 350 out of the Vette and installed it in the Camaro. Since I blew 2nd gear in the...

Yep, I still have the hood. I haven't been online in quite some time - so sorry for this late reply. Ralph

I have a q-jet on my Vette and an Edelbrock 600 on my Z-28. Both have been fine carburetors; and relatively easy to adjust. My q-jet was rebuit from a vendor I found online... works like a charm.... Vette79 (Jeff) also used this vendor to obtain his q-jet. I believe he's been satisfied as...

Lookin' good... I've also been restoring doing a frame-on resto; not quite as extensive as yours. Last week I purchased a replacement rear exhaust panel -- did you replace yours too?

That piece is part of the front lower valance. The valance is held in place by two bonding strips on each fender. I replaced mine last summer. Yours looks like it's in relatively good shape and can be repaired.

Thanks Paul...

Ok....

Hello All, I am building a 427 with "6223" forged crankshaft. However, I will be using a mid-late 70s Mark IV block and "781" heads. I want to convert to power steering when I install the big block. In the Zip Corvette catalog I noticed they offer different conversion kits for the 427 and...