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Rear defogger mystery.... When does it activate?

Thanks LL. You are always there for me. It's 15 degrees F in the garage right now so I doubt I'll be chasing this repair today. I hope I don't need new cables, especially the upper one, as they do look buried under a lot of work! Still got my Ridgeline, and did the timing belt at 107,000 miles.

Hi Supertechs, My C5 coupe is now at 122,000 miles, and has been running well for many years. I did a beer run this afternoon and while at the retailer, I set the parking brake as per usual, and it worked fine. When I got home a few minutes and 4 miles later, I pulled on the emergency...

Need advice on Radiator drain plug locking I have had a leak in my drain petcock of the radiator for about a week. I had put in the Dorman wing-nut drain plug years ago without problem. A year ago I did a water pump replacement, and in so doing drained coolant out of the petcock. Not until this...

While trying to repair my climate control main illumination bulbs, I popped one of the smaller bulbs that light up the amber "on" indicator lights. I have searched for about 1 hour and have not found what they are. Any body know the number on that much smaller bulb? Best, Bluemill

Did you try LED's I'm kind of disappointed that the bulbs on the climate control have cooked already- I really think I did all 16 bulbs like 2 years ago, and they are popping this soon? Maybe the LED's are the way to go. Thanks Dad!

What I got was a 79505-SNAA01. LL, First I put it in "naked," but because it looked so yellow compared to the other instrument lights, I pulled it and scraped off the blue coating from the stock bulb, and put a little model glue on it to keep it in place. It still looks yellow. A T4 neo...

First night driving my car home from work after the time change and I notice 2 dash bulbs out. The Climate control again... only did about 2 years ago, and the one that illuminates the fog light/trunk release switch. The latter is easy to pull, did, and found a neo wedge bulb, with a blue...

The Krylon one step stuff worked fine... Finished it off today. The satin Krylon was just a bit too black and shiny, so I roughed it very lightly with a scrunge. The leather imitation texture of the plastic is forgiving and that looked very good, but other dash pieces still looked a bit...

Painting the GM parts to match... So the GM replacement part now is molded in SHALE- or that's what it looks like, not gray but not tan either. So I do the painting with satin black Krylon-one step, no primer necessary, thinking it will be duller than semi-gloss. It still is a bit shinier...

I have to replace my steering column covers because of brittle snapped parts, snaps gone, etc. The only part you can get now is in a shale like color- not gray but not tan either. I don't know why they couldn't come in Black -like the original?? I can deal- just get some good semi gloss black...

I think it's fixed or soon will be with new parts..... The pics above show first the back side of the cancel cam/horn brush ring. It's hard to see but you might detect a groove down the middle of that brass ring from 100,000 miles of wear and lack of recent lubrication. Next to it is the GM...

I finally get all the new parts I need, and then realize the OEM lock plate is indeed a lock plate for the infamous column lock fiasco. I do like the part though in that it will give back bone to the nylon cancelcam/brush ring. I'm attaching pictures of the parts. A nice auto trans specialist...

Yeah, I should do some pics, it's hard to visualize unless you see it.... My old column lock was working fine 7-8 years ago when I brought it in after 6-12 notices from GM. I did want to remove it, but they finally got my attention when they said you could be driving and have the column lock...

First I got the membrane, replaced it and that did not fix my no horn situation. Then I have a hell of a time pulling my wheel, which is likely my fault from over torquing the steering wheel lock nut before. I have new found respect for the strength of a tapered spline connection, and might...

So Daderoo, you still think it's the clockspring huh? Well that's good because I ordered a new one. Just in case, I'm going deeper so that I can get the the spring and the cancelling cam off to check those out too. The other 2 parts were short money, so why not. I have gotten to removal of...

Battle with the wheel finally won..... I had to get "invasive" in order to get the wheel off. The KD wheel puller was still by best option, but it needed a good bite on both sides to do the job. It had torn through the original 3/16ths of aluminum on the right side, and today I tried pulling...

Got the new membrane- for the horn- it did not work. Instead of dwelling on the failure, I went to really testing grounds and juice repeatedly. Ground is solid all the way around, all the time. I was wrong about the power. Turning the steering wheel left, voltage kicks in at as little as 45...

Thanks LL-C5 So it sounds like I'd be better off it were that membrane. One is in the mail now. I just don't know where the grounds would be. The clockspring I find is described as being for the airbag, and runs for $110-150. Maybe there is a big prominent ground strap under the hood I can...

That's what I suspected ... but I ordered the membrane. Most are saying, it's the whacko membrane, so that's the way I went. So, I'll put that in, and likely be in the same boat, then I'll try the clockspring. The factory manual talks about a "horn brush ring" as a component of the steering...