Thanks, Stevolwevol. I remember manually "shifting" the Powerglide auto tranny in my '68 Camaro for many years, and it took the beating and never failed me.
"You should get the lock on 4th... Which would be at that speed."
No lights or warnings, Kane. When you can please explain a bit about the Lock on 4th gear you mention, thanks.
It was the ECM and after-market performance Chip causing all the trouble. Replaced those two components and new distributor and cap, she cranked right up. Took her out on the highway today and the only thing I noticed was a very slight "miss", Ping or Stutter when going above 75 MPH. No sound...
I had my tranny shop pals rebuild the original tranny and have now put about 50 miles on her. For those of you that have this engine/tranny combo, you know that there is that ever-present "deadzone" when cruising roads at 40-50 MPH....the tranny slides in to fourth gear and the engine RPM drops...
That is a pretty pathetic comment, there Mikey. I've had many high performance cars over the years that had and still have high-quality aftermarket components installed, as have many other folks here on this website. You get what you pay for.
Nothing wrong yet, but I figure the assembly has 82K miles on it, and the rotor cap failed on me a few weeks ago. I prefer PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE as opposed to REACTIVE. ;) We aviation folks prefer to replace old parts before they fail.
I would like to hear any recommendations you all may have for replacing my Distributor Assembly for my 1982 Collector Edition 5.7 Liter CrossFire Engine. Thanks in advance.
That would make perfect sense, guys. The original owner converted the ignition coil and distributor to HEI, and the Tach Connector goes directly in to the Coil housing now. So, the stock filter was bypassed.
Thanks, Andy and all you others that gave info and opinions. Installed the new Coil and Rotor last night and she fired right up. After a 5 minute warm-up she was idling higher than normal (1500-1700) in park. That may be because I have the new ECM chip installed and the chip and the engine need...
While messing with the distributor last evening I noticed a clean silver capacitor mounted between the injector and the distributor assembly. Brown wire in, white wire out (or vice-versa). Neither end of the wires were connected to anything. I am assuming the original owner disconnected this...
Correct, its a HyperTech #4050 Power Coil and Rotor Assembly. I am hoping the replacement rotor is "idiot-proof" and can only be installed in one direction. That will keep me from having to realign the " #1 Spark Compression at TDC" method of installation. Hope so. Will find out tonight.
This is a new thread covering my Won't Start Up issues. Once we confirmed the ECM, fuses, and all relays were working, we verified there was no spark going from the Coil to the Spark Plugs. Last night I received the new Power Coil, and removed the top off of the old one. What I found was...
Re-installed the ECM with the original chip last night.....Check Engine Light went out. Grounded the connector plug for ECM diagnostics and there were no stored codes. Still turns over strong but won't run. Will re-confirm no spark to the plugs tonight and go from there.
Here is the ECM. The original owner replaced the "Chip" with an aftermarket Power Tuning Chip from Hypertech (Part #11722). I have the original chip and will install it tonight and see if that makes any difference. No obvious damage or burns on the ECM assembly.
Ran the ECM Test last night to see what faults might be saved in the computer......power-up went fine, got the three initial flash codes as described, then the same initial flashes continued endlessly. No fault codes stored in the computer.
Peter,
I agree, and am now researching pros and cons of installing the '82 ECM 1225550 or the '84 Corvette ECM 1226430. Folks here such as Kane suggest its a no-brainer to install the '84 ECM instead of finding a new '82 ECM. Thoughts?
OK, definitely confirmed plenty of fuel getting to the injectors. Replaced all fuses, now I guess next step is to pull a spark plug, ground the body of it and see if there is strong spark while cranking. If there IS positive spark, that means something else is telling the engine not to kick in...
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