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1000 mile check

C

Colorado C6

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I am interested to know what work is done at the 1000 mile check and what is the cost to the owner? Does Chevrolet still use a break in oil?
Thanks for any comments.
 
Not sure whats done at the 1000 mile check, or even if there is one. I've got 2800 on my 07 and haven't had anything done yet. As far as break in oil, I don't think GM uses it in the vettes. I believe they're using synthetic right from the start. Just check the DIC and see how the oil percentage is.
 
Thanks for everybodys responses. In the 2009 manual, the maintenance is covered on page 6-5, 6-6, and 6-7. It appears that service is not required until 25,000 miles (Maintenance I) or until the change oil light comes on. I was just interested in knowing if any other new owner was told that they needed to spend $190.00 for a 1000 mile check. That's what the service manager quoted me for the 1000 mile check when I responded to his letter. Thanks C4C5Specialist for your valued response. I think I have the answer to my question. Thanks.
 
The 190-dollar, 1000-mile check is just dealer flim-flam.

If you plan to keep that C6 for a long time, what you really need to do to the engine at 1000 miles no dealership or even the Owner's Manual will tell you.

Change the oil and filter and switch to 10W30 Mobil 1 from 5W30. After that, change the oil at 0% on the OLM but change the filter at 50% and 0%.
 
5W30s are suggested primarily because of fuel economy regulation. The only engines that actually need a 5W30 are those that are operated in very cold weather...colder than you'd usually see even in Coloado. Places where a 5W might be necessary are the very north central parts of the U.S. and northern New England states and Alaska.

A 10W30 has less VI improvers and will better lubricate the engine.

In hotter parts of the country in cars that get driven in a sporting manner, I feel that a 10W30 is almost mandatory.
 
Hib,

I didn't realize the purpose of the lower viscosity was for fuel mileage.

I was always under the impression that with today's tighter engine tolerances a low viscosity oil was required to help lubricate the engine at start-up when most engine wear occurs.
chris
 
Thanks, Hib. I recognized ADP (additionl dealer profit) when I saw it, even after the sale. I will consider changing from 5-30 to 10- 30 Mobil 1 as I will not be driving this car in the winter. I assume you can change the oil filter without draining the oil based on your comment. Thanks again for taking the time to respond to my question.
 
Hib,

I didn't realize the purpose of the lower viscosity was for fuel mileage.

I was always under the impression that with today's tighter engine tolerances a low viscosity oil was required to help lubricate the engine at start-up when most engine wear occurs.
chris

Fortunately, with it's high-performance engines, GM Powertrain has not followed Honda's and Ford's lead and gone to a 5W20.

Unless you're starting the engine at temps lower than -20F on a regular basis, you really don't need a 5W. If you do start regularly when it's that cold, then stick with the 5W30 or even a 0W30.

The main reason GM usually specifies a 5W30 (there are exceptions) goes all the way back to the 80s when GM wanted to incrementally increase its CAFE. A 5W30 oil would make a noticeable improvement in CAFE...remember the FTP begins with a cold start.

For best durabiity in a Corvette engine, I suggest a 10W30.
Mobil 1 is good
Red Line is best

You can recover some of the cost of going to Red Line by extending your drain interval to 50% more than the OLM suggests, ie: change the oil, reset the OLM, go to 0% on the OLM, reset it, again, then go to 50% and change the oil. I change a filter at 50% and 0%.

I use Red Line 10W30 in every vehicle I own. One of them, a 99 Blazer, has had some short duration, severe winter use in the mountains of west central Wyoming with several starts at -20°F. While, I admit, this was not a long term situation, I did observe that after being parked outside overnight the engine started quickly and oil pressure built almost a quick as it does when I'm in normal weather. I'll admit that, had this been a long-term visit, I'd have changed to Red Line 5W30 for winter use.
 
I'm with Hib on this one also.

I changed the oil and filter after the first 1000-1500 miles just to get any break-in crud out. Then I change the filter only every 3500-4000 miles with the oil and filter both with the third filter.

Yes you can change the filter without changing the oil but you'll probably have to do it yourself as very few dealers or quick lube places will like the idea.
 
Hib,

I didn't realize the purpose of the lower viscosity was for fuel mileage.

I was always under the impression that with today's tighter engine tolerances a low viscosity oil was required to help lubricate the engine at start-up when most engine wear occurs.
chris

Fortunately, with it's high-performance engines, GM Powertrain has not followed Honda's and Ford's lead and gone to a 5W20.

Unless you're regularly starting the engine at temps lower than -20F on a regular basis, you really don't need a 5W.

The main reason GM usually specifies a 5W30 (there are exceptions) goes all the way back to the 80s when GM wanted to incrementally increase its CAFE. A 5W30 oil would make a noticeable improvement in CAFE...remember the FTP begins with a cold start.

For best durabiity in a Corvette engine, I suggest a 10W30.
Mobil 1 is good
Red Line is best

You can recover some of the cost of going to Red Line by extending your drain interval to 50% more than the OLM suggests, ie: change the oil, reset the OLM, go to 0% on the OLM, reset it, again, then go to 50% and change the oil. I change a filter at 50% and 0%.
 
Thanks Hib.

I'll give 10-30 a shot at my next oil change.

BTW-next time I'm in SoCal can I drive that 71' 454'?!!!!
chris
 
Thanks Hib.

I'll give 10-30 a shot at my next oil change.

BTW-next time I'm in SoCal can I drive that 71' 454'?!!!!
chris

Uh, well...I can't promise you a drive but I can at least offer you a ride. Funny you should ask about that car. This coming week is going to see it on the street for some more testing after a long period of my solving some little engine problems.
 
Don't be misled, use what the factory says to use.


(and this coming from a tribologist!)
 

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