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LT4 12.19 - New best with the LT4

1996 LT4 Topic

jonecap

Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2006
Messages
15
Location
Raleigh, NC
Corvette
'96 Collector's Edition LT4
I posted this in the C5 tech LS1/LT4 thread for kicks as well. New best with the LT4 last weekend at Fayetteville Motorsports Park. I only got one pass in, but it was a good one. The car has 4.10's, a Magnaflow catback, Meziere electric water pump, K&N & open lid, descreened MAF, Nitto drag radials, and it's been dyno tuned...that's it. It has 81,000 miles on it. I will post the timeslip, but can't at the moment.

60foot 1.76
1/8 mile 7.85 @ 89.95
1/4 mile 12.19 @ 114.21 mph

This car still has the stock exhaust manifolds on it and it is screamin'. My goal is to get it into the 11's at a Corvette Challenge event in February without headers.

LT4's rock!
 
Hey did you run that number with a stock clutch?Thanks Kevin.
 
12.19 is damn impressive for a near stock LT4 with drag radials.
 
Sweet fancy Moses, that is one quick LT4! :eek

B17Crew
:w
 
Thats one clean 96 ya got there!!! and :beerto ya 12.19.Saw ya time slip in the C-5 section you could hit 12.00's if ya work on ya reaction time!!

ya want 11's

a. get that reaction time down.
b. a will help ya 60' time
c. longtubes/tune=
d 11.85-11.95 easy :_rock
 
Thats one clean 96 ya got there!!! and :beerto ya 12.19.Saw ya time slip in the C-5 section you could hit 12.00's if ya work on ya reaction time!!

ya want 11's

a. get that reaction time down.
b. a will help ya 60' time
c. longtubes/tune=
d 11.85-11.95 easy :_rock

definitely.....and beyond.........been there.......wait til' he slaps a 4:56 in it....minimal diff in rpm's used up....
put mine back on the shelf for now......but's a hoot at the strip....

since my agent orange/loss of arm and cancer fiasco.....i put the short/tall gear back in....i like top end....
 
Thats one clean 96 ya got there!!! and :beerto ya 12.19.Saw ya time slip in the C-5 section you could hit 12.00's if ya work on ya reaction time!!

ya want 11's

a. get that reaction time down.
b. a will help ya 60' time
c. longtubes/tune=
d 11.85-11.95 easy :_rock

First, that is a very fine pass. Congratulations.

Reaction time is independent of elapsed time. The et is the time between when the start line is crossed and when the finish line is crossed. The et does NOT start at the green light. It starts when your wheels trip the light beam at the start line. You can have a 20 second reaction time and still run a 12 second et. Of course, you will lose the drag race by 20 seconds. But reaction time is an independent number. It will affect neither the et nor the 60' time. The big key to that time appears to me to be the 4.10 gears.
 
That is a GREAT time!

Does not surprise me that much. The LT4s are screamin' engines.

I do not have headers either. I probably will not put them on. I am VERY satisfied with how mine runs!

SAVE THE :w


 
Great time. I have a 92 LT-1 with 4.10s and recently installed a Hurst Shifter. I rarely (never before) dragged the car, being more interested in setting the car up for road course. However, a few nights ago it was cold (49 degrees, which is cold here) and wanted to try it out with no A/C and the forced air. I waited for the clutch to be fully engaged and at about 10 mph, let the hammer down. I made very little forward progress, (felt like I moved less than 10 yards) and was just burning up the tires. Fishtailing went on through the shift to 3rd. I am running 315/35 Michelin Pilot Sports, which are just about in need of replacement. NOW the question, any tips for dragging, i.e. rpms for start off, ways to avoid just burning tires without forward progress, and replacement tires, or suspension set up. I still need to keep the car set up for road course, but I have another set of wheels that I could use for dragging. Thanks
 
Reaction time is independent of elapsed time. The et is the time between when the start line is crossed and when the finish line is crossed. The et does NOT start at the green light. It starts when your wheels trip the light beam at the start line. You can have a 20 second reaction time and still run a 12 second et. Of course, you will lose the drag race by 20 seconds. But reaction time is an independent number. It will affect neither the et nor the 60' time. The big key to that time appears to me to be the 4.10 gears.

I think that depends on the race conditions of the track. I know at the local track here for the test and tune day it is not, but I think under bracket racing I think reaction time is taken into affect. But I could be wrong. Agreed the first, and only time I had reactions time of like 6 hundredths of a second, my buddy was impressed to say the least.
 
From the NHRA home page:

By far the most popular form of drag racing is a handicapped form of competition known as "E.T. Bracket Racing." In this form of racing, two vehicles of varying performance potentials can race on a potentially even basis. The anticipated elapsed times for each vehicle are compared, with the slower car receiving a headstart equal to the difference of the two. With this system, virtually any two vehicles can be paired in a competitive drag race.
spacer.gif
For Example: Car A has ben timed a 17.78, 17.74, and 17.76 seconds for the quarter-mile, and the driver feels that a "dial-in" of 17.75 is appropriate. Meanwhile, the driver of car B has recorded elapsed times of 15.27, 15.22 and 15.26 on the same track and he has opted for a "dial-in" of 15.25. Accordingly, car A will get a 2.5-second headstart over car B when the "Christmas Tree" counts down to each car's starting green lights.
spacer.gif
If both vehicles cover the quarter-mile in exactly the predetermined elapsed time, the win will go to the driver who reacts quickest to the starting signal. That reaction to the starting signal is called "reaction time." Both lanes are timed independently of one another, and the clock does not start until the vehicle actually moves. Because of this, a vehicle may sometimes appear to have a mathematical advantage in comparative elapsed times but actually lose the race. This fact makes starting line reflexes extremely important in drag racing!
I added the red emphasis color. The et does NOT include the reaction time. It is a very common misunderstanding. In a heads-up race, an et of 12.10 with an rt of 0.1 (12.2 total) will beat an et of 12.0 and an rt of 0.3 (12.3 total). The slower et wins.
 
It is a very common belief.
Hmmm... I wonder where I heard that from :confused. Thanks for the correction.

It is a very common belief. I would even bet you that most weekend drag racers believe that it is true. You are not alone! :L
 
Hey did you run that number with a stock clutch?Thanks Kevin.
Yes. Stock clutch and I'm pretty sure it's the original with 80,000 miles on it. It's pretty sloppy and I can't power shift the car. If I don't lift between shifts the clutch won't hold. I suspect I could lose another tenth with a new clutch.
 
Great time. I have a 92 LT-1 with 4.10s and recently installed a Hurst Shifter. I rarely (never before) dragged the car, being more interested in setting the car up for road course. However, a few nights ago it was cold (49 degrees, which is cold here) and wanted to try it out with no A/C and the forced air. I waited for the clutch to be fully engaged and at about 10 mph, let the hammer down. I made very little forward progress, (felt like I moved less than 10 yards) and was just burning up the tires. Fishtailing went on through the shift to 3rd. I am running 315/35 Michelin Pilot Sports, which are just about in need of replacement. NOW the question, any tips for dragging, i.e. rpms for start off, ways to avoid just burning tires without forward progress, and replacement tires, or suspension set up. I still need to keep the car set up for road course, but I have another set of wheels that I could use for dragging. Thanks
Drag radials...especially since you have spare rims. It makes all the difference in the world. I can drop the clutch at 3,000 rpm and it won't spin. Just plants and goes. I'm running Nitto NT555r's.

Good luck!
 
Here's a link to a race video from a few months ago before I installed the Meziere. This is against my buddy on his '05 GTO 6 speed. Both cars are running drag radials. I think I probably ran a 12.6 on this pass...don't remember.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/10bfb56e-c14c-4401-8b65-984d018a45dd.htm
I'm headed back to the track tomorrow...looking for a 12.0. Hopefully I won't find a broken rear instead.
 
First, that is a very fine pass. Congratulations.

Reaction time is independent of elapsed time. The et is the time between when the start line is crossed and when the finish line is crossed. The et does NOT start at the green light. It starts when your wheels trip the light beam at the start line. You can have a 20 second reaction time and still run a 12 second et. Of course, you will lose the drag race by 20 seconds. But reaction time is an independent number. It will affect neither the et nor the 60' time. The big key to that time appears to me to be the 4.10 gears.

Good info.I kinda ran it together but by the time slip his reaction time could use a lil mo practice!! Question? so when stageing deep in the box you give your car a so to speak 2ft headstart on the clock?
 
Good info.I kinda ran it together but by the time slip his reaction time could use a lil mo practice!! Question? so when stageing deep in the box you give your car a so to speak 2ft headstart on the clock?
Shallow stage. Pull up just far enough to turn on the 2nd staging light. That will give you about a little bit of start before you trip the timing lights. Probably more like 6 to 8 inches, but it makes a difference.
 
Good info.I kinda ran it together but by the time slip his reaction time could use a lil mo practice!! Question? so when stageing deep in the box you give your car a so to speak 2ft headstart on the clock?

I agree with jonecap. Stage as shallow as possible. Just roll in far enough to trip the staging light.

The cars that I have seen stage deep do so for reaction time predictability. In a bracket race, only 2 things matter. First, that your runs are as predictable, consistent, and as close to your dial-in time as possible. Second, that the reaction time is as short as possible. The deep stage helps vehicles that are slow out of the hole hit the start line at the right time. For me, it is yellow, yellow, go on 3rd yellow, green. If I was slow out of the hole, a deep stage would put me at the line sooner, as I would not have as far to go. However, a shallow stage gives me a little bit more head start.
 

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