Thanks so much. Just trying to see what the labeling is on the fuse block because mine is worn off in places. I am having a problem with my tail lights, brake lights. They don't work when I turn the light switch on in full mode or parking light mode, however my emergency and turn signals do work. The brake lights do not work when depressing pedal either. Fuse was checked and is OK. Any thoughts?'67 Fuse block photo below - also shown on page 55 in the '67 owner's manual.
Thanks so much. Just trying to see what the labeling is on the fuse block because mine is worn off in places. I am having a problem with my tail lights, brake lights. They don't work when I turn the light switch on in full mode or parking light mode, however my emergency and turn signals do work. The brake lights do not work when depressing pedal either. Fuse was checked and is OK. Any thoughts?
My thought process was some lights did not work, some did. This could be a circuit issue. Chris had already checked the positive side of the light circuit. Checking the negative side would be a logical next step. Checking from the ground at the socket to the ground cable clamp would test the current path through any connection in the frame/body. When the test result is good, on to the next step. If results indicate a problem with that ground path, it is time for research to find what could be the issue. The actual best testing procedure of that ground circuit would be a voltage drop test. The resistance test I outlined will work and is easy to explain and understand.
2 (exhaust hanger clamp to trans cross member 1 on each clamp)
1 Frame to left side engine mount
1 Frame to body (under left rear splash shield by body mount)
1 antenea to frame (rear left fender)
1 Throttle linkage
1 Front edge of the sill ( D/S ) attaching to the #1 body mount bracket
http://www.licorvette.com/pdfcatalogfiles/catalog.pdf section 53 for PIX
So it seems more DETAILED info from the OP is needed.. eh what Holmes?
It's a NYC car, read corrosion could be a big factor here.. What's it's history?.. Always garaged?... Bringing it back after X years slumber or recent purchase?
I love a good electrical puzzle....
And it starts here...
I am having a problem with my tail lights, brake lights ( Imply's rear only )
They don't work when I turn the light switch on in full mode or parking light mode, ( this needs more detail,what I get is the rear running lights do not work )
However my emergency and turn signals do work.( this imply's both sides front & rear )
The brake lights do not work when depressing pedal either. ( I assume in any mode they do not work.. ergo power to switch and switched output would be a help here as a data point )
Fuse was checked and is OK. ( how were the fuses checked?? )
So none of the running lights work in " normal" mode... aka the emergency flasher is off... seems to me the power feed for that circuit needs a look see..
Has the headlight switch been changed?
Do you have any history on the car?
Will you be doing the testing / work?
12 volt test light will be your friend at this point...
I assume you just aquired the car and it's your first C2?
With the emergency flashers off, and light switch on first click or full on the running lights both front & back don't come on. Headlights do work. Also brake lights do not work when depressing pedal.
No I don't have much history on car and yes I'll be doing own work. I can't tell if switch has been changed, but it doesn't look like it has. I did purchase a new OEM delco switch and will be trying that out. What puzzles me if it were a bad ground it doesn't make sense that the turn signals and emergency flashers would work. That tells me the ground is good. I'll also be checking the fuse block for power to the light switch. The fuse is OK after pulling it out and ohming it out.
Thanks for all your help it is indeed welcome. I'll do some testing and hope to find my problem. I've got both test light & digital volt/ohm meter to do tests. Well better get testing TTYL.If I have the situation correctly in my mind here are some suggestions to help you with this task.
The running /marker lights do not ever work regardless of the ignition switch or the headlight switch position. The brake lights do not ever work. The dash lights work. The head lights work in High and Low beam. Head light doors open/close. The 4-way flasher and turn signals work.
1st problem. The front running/marker lights have a stand alone circuit from the head light switch (PPL). The rear running/marker lights are a stand alone circuit (BRN) from the headlight switch. Both do not work. Possible cause is corrosion in the light switch. Try operating the switch out then in repeatedly (10 to 15 times) very rapidly. This may knock some of the corrosion off due to friction. If that fails you will need to try another switch.
The Dash lights (DG to fuse 4, GY after fuse) are in a stand alone circuit using a dimmer rheostat and fuse 4 in the fuse box. They work. No problem.
2nd problem. The brake lights do not use the light switch in that circuit. The 4-way flasher and turn signals work. The 4-way and signals do not use the brake light switch but do use the steering column turn signal/4-way switch. Check (with the key on and with the key off) for battery voltage at the orange wire of the brake light switch. If you have battery voltage on that orange wire, depress the brake pedal. While the brake pedal is depressed check for battery voltage on the white wire of the brake light switch. If you do not have battery voltage on the white wire the problem is the brake light switch. If you do have battery voltage on the white wire the problem may be in the steering column turn signal/4-way switch. Look for overheating/corrosion in the steering column turn signal/4-way switch connector.
I do hope that this will help you find your electrical gremlins.
You can check for battery voltage using a 12 volt test light, this car does not have any sensitive/fragile electronics that can be damaged using this equipment. I use a device called a Power Probe II. It uses colored LEDs to indicate whether you have battery positive (red) or ground (green). On the handle is a toggle switch that can supply B(+) or B(-) to test the circuit. A in-line 10 amp circuit breaker is incorporated to protect the tool from a direct short to ground. There is a 20 foot cord that connects to the vehicle battery for testing anywhere on the car. Very handy tool for troubleshooting electrical issues. BUT it costs a great deal more than a simple 12 volt test light.
Good luck Chris.
P.S. Nice Roadster!
Thanks for all your help it is indeed welcome. I'll do some testing and hope to find my problem. I've got both test light & digital volt/ohm meter to do tests. Well better get testing TTYL.