Question: 1973 Steering Problem

[CAPNZ]

I recently re-did the front suspension on my 73 BB. The whole rebuild package. I took it in for the Front & Rear wheel alignment and the shop did a great job. The next day I looked under the car and it was leaking power steering fluid. I took the car back to the Chevy garage and the guy told me I need a new Steering cylinder/ram. So, I get a new one from ECKLER’S FED-EX’d to me and installed it. At first when I started the car it made a whining sound. I let the car sit to bleed the system and added some more fluid. The noise stopped and I was happy! I took it for a test drive and the cars all over the road. Bottom line, there’s about 3" play in the steering wheel in both directiions. I looked under the car and where the pitman arm connects to the Power Steering Control Valve is where the slop is. DO I NEED A NEW CONTROL VALVE or CAN I CORRECT THE SLOP? THANKS!

 

[petes74ttop]

Steering Wheel Play

Hi CAPNZ, since the excessive play just started you might want to bleed the system again and see if that helps.
The power sreering control valve will have a little play in it. With the car on jack stands have a helper turn the steering wheel. The ball stud will move about 1/8 of a inch before the control valve starts to move, more movement than that and it could be worn.
While your under there look at the steering box, while your helper turns the steering wheel, see if the pitman arm goes up or down before it goes left or right. If it goes up & down than the steering box is out of adjustment or excessively worn. PG.

 

[CAPNZ]

Thanks Pete. The pitman does'nt seem to go up & down. Just a lot a free play left & right. WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO BLEED THE SYSTEM???? The garage guy said just leave it sit. Thanks Again!

 

[wishuwerehere82]

The steering cylinder has to be filled with fluid for it to operate properly. Since it is already installed, I would suggest this to purge the air out of the cylinder.

Disconnect the rod end from the frame bracket.
Start the engine and turn the steering wheel until the steering cylinder retracts fully. Then turn it the other way until the cylinder extends fully. Do this a few times, watching that the fluid level in the reservoir is full. topping it up if necessary. Reconnect the rod end to the frame bracket. You're done!

I just did the same job on a 47' yacht yesterday.
Believe me, it drove like a boat! Now it drives like a Corvette!

 

[petes74ttop]

Hi again, here's a link with lots of information http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=4 PG.

 

[CAPNZ]

The wife and I just went out and did what you said. It seems a little better BUT THE CAR IS STILL ALL OVER THE ROAD. LIKE A SNAKE! CONSTANT CORRECTION ON THE STEERING.
THIS IS A MINT 73 AND I'M TRYING TO GET IT READY FOR IOLA,WI. I ONLY LIVE @ 12mi. AWAY. Thanks Guy!

 

[petes74ttop]

More things to check.

In your first post you said you heard a whining, you did top it up with power steering fluid right? Not Transmission fluid.
wishuwerehere82 gave you a good way to bleed the system, have you tried that or any that Jim Shea suggested?
Since everything worked OK before the cylinder change it may still have air which must be bleed before it will work correctly.
Reguarding the cylinder: you have the steel washer, then the rubber bumper, than another rubber bumper and then the last steel washer in place correctly?
Unlikely that the rag joint, idler arm, tie rod ends or ball joints just gave out at the same time so I would bleed it 1 or 2 more times before you change anything else. PG.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

In your first post, you said that the end of the pittman arm to the steering valve was where the slop is.
Is that still the area that you think is the problem?

The pittman arm connects to the steering valve by a short tapered shaft that comes off the steering valve. That shaft is pressed into the pittman arm and held by a castellated nut with a cotter pin in the shaft.
The valve itself has about 1/2" travel side to side as it slides back and forth opening and closing the valve to control the flow of steering fluid to the cylinder.
As you were bleeding the cylinder, the steering wheel only needs to be turned about 1" in either direction for the cylinder to start moving. You should visually verify that. One thing that might help is to jack the front wheels off the ground so there is no load on the steering. Then you can see where things are moving or not when they should.

Since it was good before you replaced the steering assist cylinder, that's where I would assume the problem is. But you might have some slop in the steering box before it connects to the steering valve, which would account for several inches of steering wheel movment before the valve is actuated.
With the wheels centered and the engine off, try to push on the wheels as if you were turning a corner. There should be no movement in all of the steering linkages(I.E. loose linkages) and the steering wheel should tilt in the direction you are pushing. But it won't move much because of the hydraulic pressure in the cylinder. If it does, there's air in it or the piston seals are bad.(yes, I know it's new, but sometimes a new part is bad.)
Also check for movement in the rod end bushings to the frame bracket. Old bushings can cause a whole lot of slop in the steering. And check to make sure the bracket is securely bolted to the frame.

As a point of interest, when I got my 82 the steering cylinder had just been replaced at a dealership. Not only were the bushings shot, but the bracket bolts were loose too. It was a crazy, scary, wild ride until I put new bushings in and found the loose bolts(4) on it.
Check it out and let us know what you find.

 

[CAPNZ]

The whinning stopped when I topped it off. I used the correct fluid. Rubber grommets and washers are on correctly. The whole suspension is new. Bushings, ball joints, tie rods,idler arm etc. I'd say there is @ 1" to 1 1/4" delay in the steering wheel before the wheels turn. I checked my F-150 and when I turn the wheel on it, even 1/4" the tires turn. I HATE TO SPEND MORE MONEY! Thanks.

 

[CAPNZ]

Thanks again Pete! Here's where I'm at on this fine Sunday afternoon......
I jacked-up both front tires.
Turned the ignition to on, as the steering column locks.
I pushed on the tires and the steering wheel moved quite a bit.
There didn't seem to be excess play.
I disconnected the steering cylinder shaft again.
Started the engine and moved the steering wheel far right and left several times.
How tight should I turn the nut on the shaft when I put it back? The new bushings are pretty much compressed but I got a spare set. What should I do next Pete? Thanks "Jeff"

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Thanks again Pete! Here's where I'm at on this fine Sunday afternoon......
I jacked-up both front tires.
Turned the ignition to on, as the steering column locks.
I pushed on the tires and the steering wheel moved quite a bit.
There didn't seem to be excess play.
I disconnected the steering cylinder shaft again.
Started the engine and moved the steering wheel far right and left several times.
How tight should I turn the nut on the shaft when I put it back? The new bushings are pretty much compressed but I got a spare set. What should I do next Pete? Thanks "Jeff"

I would put the new bushings on as long as you have them.
Then tighten up the steering rod as far as you can and see if that makes a difference.
And don't turn the steering wheel lock to lock without the steering rod attached unless the front wheels are off the ground. The valve is kind of delicate and can pop the seals without the steering rod providing the force to move the rack.

 

[CAPNZ]

PETE, update. With the shaft removed and the engine running there was @ 1" free play both ways. As soon as I felt tension on the wheel and I continued to turn the wheel the shaft would shoot in and out. After letting it sit I did this about 8 times. Now there seems to be @ 1/2" or less free play. SO, maybe I'm sneaking up on it. I'll hook up the steering rod and let the wife drive it. Maybe it's just me because I don't drive the car much. Only 39K miles. It's MINT and I hope to get around $39K for it. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks again.

 

[CAPNZ]

Well, NOT GOOD! Had the wife drive the car on a back country road and she had the same problem. CONSTANTLY fighting the wheel back & forth at 35 mph and above. She discribed it best by saying, "it's like driving on ice". When we first got the car she was driving it at 80 MPH and was amazed that the car drove itself. This is my 8th or 9th Vette since returning from Viet-Nam. And I'm sorry to say that after leaving the big city the closest Chevy garage here is @ 30 mi. away. GEEEEEEZ!

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Well,,

I would have to say since that was the one component you replaced that started the problem, and surely it's bled out by now, that the cylinder is probably defective.

 

[JohnZ]

Slop (play) in Corvette power steering that appears suddenly is generally a problem in the control valve (assuming the steering gear, rag joint, linkage, frame bracket connection of the power cylinder, and ball joints are good).

 

[CAPNZ]

OK,Here's what I did. I took off the NEW steering cylinder and sent it back to ECKLER'S. I ordered a rebuild kit from AMW. All the shipping was over $50.00. GEEEEEEZ! SO, I took my old unit and removed the seals. Polished the shaft and painted it Gloss black. the one I got from ECKLER's was grey and was leaking in the box when thec FED-EX guy delivered it. I'm waiting on parts and if this doesn't work then it's to the control valve. Thanks!

 

[Evolution1980]

I got rid of the slop in my car by putting in a rack & pinion conversion. *laughing* I know, I know...it's not helping you solve your problem.

Believe me, it drove like a boat! Now it drives like a Corvette!

That's redundant! A Corvette is a boat! :L

 

[CAPNZ]

Thanks Guy. But the car is MINT! Got to keep it original. I know what your'e talking about. @ $1200.00. My next one will have it and I'll drive the car. Sorry to say this Vette out of many I've owned is a trailer Queen. AND, I think that's why stuff is breaking. My good friend once told me, "if you want to screw up a car leave it sit". HAVE A GOOD 4TH!
"Jeff"

 

[GTR1999]

Chances are the control valve is the problem from simple balancing to flow issues. If you bought a rebuilt one then I really would suspect it.
You can check your box for free play when it's on center. there should be no lost motion on center.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Chances are the control valve is the problem from simple balancing to flow issues. If you bought a rebuilt one then I really would suspect it.
You can check your box for free play when it's on center. there should be no lost motion on center.

But there was no problem other than the leaking cylinder before he replaced it. Why would the valve need balancing if it was working fine before? He didn't replace the valve, just the cylinder.

Let's imagine that the piston seal in the cylinder was installed improperly, or broken in the new cylinder. It would manifest the same problem as an unbalanced control valve. Basically responding poorly, or not at all under proper control from the valve.