Help! 2013 427 Convertible: Removing and replacing the clutch slave cylinder.

[t0madams]

At this point I'm not able to purchase the service manuals for my car. If someone can share the section I need to safely remove, inspect, and reinstall or replace (including proper torque specifications) the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder on my 2013 427 Convertible I will in turn take step by step pictures and post them to this forum so the next person that must tackle this task will have some helpful photos. I'm new to this forum so please forgive me if I'm not posting correctly.

 

[Hib Halverson]

Replacing the clutch slave is not a DIY job unless you have intermediate-to-advanced mechanical skills a lot of serious shop equipment.

The general instructions are below, however, to do the work you must have the Factory Service Manual.

Install jacking pucks then raise the car on a twin post hoist which lifts from the side. You can also do this on your back but the jack stands need to be really high.
Remove the rear tires, rear drive axles and rear suspension.
Support the transaxle and torque tube assembly safely and properly then remove the transaxle and torque tube as a unit. This assembly weighs about 800 lbs so be careful and use equipment designed to support that much weight. The best bet is using the GM shop tool designed for that purpose but resourceful DIYs can find other ways. The important part is to not damage the torque tube.

The concentric clutch slave is at the front of the torque tube. Once you have the transaxle and torque tube out and properly supported the concentric clutch slave is fairly easy to replace.

Provided you have the proper shop equipment, hand tools and experience, you ought to be able to do the job in a weekend.

You can buy Factory Service Manuals from CAC sponsor Zip Products.

I have to ask...why are you replacing the clutch slave on a 2013?

 

[t0madams]

Because the slave cylinder appears to have failed.

The slave cylinder may need more than bleeding and I want to be prepared for the worst once I get started with it. With a less that 12000 miles the clutch is not functioning so I have repeatedly tried the add fresh fluid, pump the pedal, repeat, with no success. The car is under warranty but unfortunately I no longer trust the "mechanics" at the dealerships. The last time I let a dealership have my car they only managed to change my oil and did not fix anything I asked them to address. However, they managed to scratch my finish, get shop grime in my floorboards, and grease on her windshield,,,WINDSHIELD!

I know how to get the service manuals I just don't want to spend the money until I have seen an example of what they will contain. Honestly I thought the instruction I requested would start with bleeding the clutching slave cylinder not jump to tearing it all down. I should have been a little more specific about my request. I expect that I would have to remove some items to access the slave cylinder, bleed it, add a tube to allow me to do it in the future without disassembly, and put it back together. For that I need proper torque specifications if nothing else. Kinda hoped someone on this forum would already have that information.

Thanks.

 

[Hib Halverson]

You asked about replacing the concentric slave so, that's what I posted.

To bleed the clutch slave you can search the web for the "Ranger Method" which I'm told works ok.

To bleed the clutch the factory way, you remove the exhaust mid-section, remove the tunnel close-out plate then bleed the clutch using the bleeder fitting accessible though a hole in the clutch housing.

If you don't want to spend the money to buy a set of Factory Service Manuals then you'll likely not be able to do much service work DIY. Hard for me to understand someone who spend tens of thousands of dollars for a 427 Convertible but won't spend the hundred or so necessary for comprehensive service information. In any event...

Good luck with the bleeding. Hopefully that will solve your problem.