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350 Engine Rebuild NEED HELP!!!

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andrewmckernon

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Hey, I just bought an enourmous amount of stuff for my '69 350 SB. I purchased the following:

Edelbrock Hydraulic Cam and Lifters
High Output Oil Pump
Forged Pistons
Hardened Pushrods and Guideplates
Edelbrock Aluminum Heads
Comp Cam Roller Rocker Arms
Edelbrock RPM Intake


I have all the necessary parts for an engine rebuild, but not the tools and knowhow.

Are there any vette enthusiasts in the DFW area that are willing and able to make this a summer project with me. I'd be willing to dish out a FEW bucks for help, but not much. If there's anyone you know, or a good cheap mechanic, that'd be great too.

Thanks all.
 
Wow, I wish you were close to me. I would be more than happy to help out . . . and I wouldn't want your money. In this case, a job well done would be the reward. Good luck finding someone to help out . . . :m


Ron
 
thanks

thanks for the thought. I hope to make a road trip out to california when all is said and done.

-andrew
 
Cheap help

andrewmckernon said:
Hey, I just bought an enourmous amount of stuff for my '69 350 SB. I purchased the following:

Edelbrock Hydraulic Cam and Lifters
High Output Oil Pump
Forged Pistons
Hardened Pushrods and Guideplates
Edelbrock Aluminum Heads
Comp Cam Roller Rocker Arms
Edelbrock RPM Intake


I have all the necessary parts for an engine rebuild, but not the tools and knowhow.

Are there any vette enthusiasts in the DFW area that are willing and able to make this a summer project with me. I'd be willing to dish out a FEW bucks for help, but not much. If there's anyone you know, or a good cheap mechanic, that'd be great too.

Thanks all.
I did the same thing you are about to do. I had a friend
to help my out in exchange for parts and some money. See if you can barter
with someone.
 
Since you are tight on cash(who isn't these days?) invest in a David Visards "how to rebuild a SB Chevy" book and the video that Eastwoods sells. They will walk you through the whole job and you'll have a good reference for the future.

As for your parts, it's best to wait until you know the condition of your motor before buying. Psitons for example, did you get stock size or over size? What you need depends on the condition of the cylinders.Looks like you have some nice performance parts there so you should be able to build a nice 375-400 hp motor.

Good luck and don't rush through it.
 
Ditto on the Dave Vizard book !!! Also get his book on how to build high performance small blocks on a budget . Lots of good tips here plus info on how to be sure the parts you have should be matched up. Do an author search on Amazon.com and his books will turn up. I paid about $13.00 a peice. Email me anytime with questions. Building up a performance motor with your own hands is a blast. - Bob
 
Andrew
know what your going through, im in that same mode myself, got the motor but not all the knowledge, but I can read....hahaha.... so that's how im getting through my restoration/rebuild, plus I have friends who know more about this stuff than I do, so that's a big plus.....

any good books on how to build a Performance BB for my vette.....

Dave
 
First Rebuild

Hey Andrew, welcome to the CAC. This is the first time I have seen your postings. It is fairly simple to pull, take apart, have machined, put back together, reinstall a 350 cu. in. out of an early model shark. A Haynes manual and the search mode of this forum will get you through any problems you may encounter.

Please remember there are no dumb questions!!! I have just finished my 2nd rebuild and have never had to go outside of this forum for help. Just ask.

Good luck. peace Bud :cool
 
To Dave(70 454) - For books on the big block motor,just do a search on Amazon.com. You will turn up several choices that have info. on these motors. - Bob
 
Thanks Bob..... now i can find out what i need to do, the right way....hahaha...
 
Andrew

I went through this too winter before last, get a good book or video for rebuilding a small block. It also helps if there is a machine shop in your area that you trust. I actually took a day off and went and discussed my project with several shops until I found someone I liked and who seemed interested in my project.

Also use this forum, there are some members that will help a lot. For example I made a bad decision on buying some new small chambered heads. Jack took a look at the parts I had purchased and what had been done so far. His advise saved me hundreds and possibly the need to take my engine back apart to correct.

Enjoy the rebuild, I get a smile every time I get on it a little bit ........

andrewmckernon said:
Hey, I just bought an enourmous amount of stuff for my '69 350 SB. I purchased the following:

Edelbrock Hydraulic Cam and Lifters
High Output Oil Pump
Forged Pistons
Hardened Pushrods and Guideplates
Edelbrock Aluminum Heads
Comp Cam Roller Rocker Arms
Edelbrock RPM Intake


I have all the necessary parts for an engine rebuild, but not the tools and knowhow.

Are there any vette enthusiasts in the DFW area that are willing and able to make this a summer project with me. I'd be willing to dish out a FEW bucks for help, but not much. If there's anyone you know, or a good cheap mechanic, that'd be great too.

Thanks all.
 
I'm in the process of building a 383 stroker and the parts are streaming in :D

What exactly are you looking for as far as help? :confused I can be of some assitance, I think, but it depends on what you're doing. I agree with the book suggestions, a great place to start and strongly suggest you invest in some basic tools, like a good socket set, swivels and extensions ( you're gonna need them), ring compressor, ring removal tool, torque wrench, a good wrench set, a rubber faced mallet ( persuasion tool, known to engineers as a "tweeker") and most of all good vise grips ( Large and small needle nose).
Are you planning to pull the motor or do the work with it in the car.........I'm assuming you're pulling it? Buy an engine stand if you are $65 from Summit, well worth the investment or borrow one.
If you have specific questions, I'll try to help as best I can, if I can't there are mulitple others on here that have done what you are doing and will be more than happy to help out...................remember, patience is a virtue !!!!! and I've been told that you grow new knuckles in about three weeks ;LOL
 
rgtrough said:
.....remember there are no dumb questions!!!
.....only dumb answers.
 
The only thing id ditch would be the high volume oil pump all you need is about 65 psi max 40 50 is enough actually.Any way the HV pump takes more HP to turn and will suck a stock depth oil pan dry in seconds at high rpm.And I know you dont want that!!!
 
What about Pistons

I have been told from a friend that I need to bore the cylinders a bit to make clearance for the forged pistons i purchased (btw, they are stock bore size). Is this true, and how much machining is really necessary. There are so many machine shops around, I don't know who and what to believe. A good corvette source is my first choice, what do you guys think?

andrew
 
if you have a ridge inside of the cylinder bore just down from where the heads bolt on then you will need to get rid of that ridge.if you are not going to have any other machining done then you will probably have to hone the inside of each cyl.

good luck
 
I have been told from a friend that I need to bore the cylinders a bit to make clearance for the forged pistons i purchased (btw, they are stock bore size). Is this true, and how much machining is really necessary.
After tear-down and inspection is when you can make an intelligent decision. Before that, is just a 'guesstimate'...

There are so many machine shops around, I don't know who and what to believe.
You can possibly try talking to a few racers at the drag-strip or other local Corvette owners who've had their engines rebuilt;
they might tell you who to talk with...AND who to avoid...

A good corvette source is my first choice, what do you guys think?
Why bother with a "good Corvette source" to rebuild your engine; unless you're building an all-out motor (stroker crank, roller cam), while this motor is special to "you", it is, for all intents and purposes, 'just another small block Chevy', no different than those 350s offered in '69 Novas, Camaros, Chevelles, or Impalas, and requires no 'extra-special' tools or knowledge.
I'd think you'll pay WAY too-much to have a 'basic' 350 SBC re-built by a " good Corvette source "...
 
It's true ... forged pistons typically require 2-to-3 more thousandth's clearance than the usual cast piston ... but that's only one aspect of the equation. It's quite common for a stock/original motor to have routine wear that requires a thirty-thousandth's overbore in cylinder in order to clean up the cylinder ... then fit with 30-over piston. BEFORE any "wear parts" (i.e. pistons, rings, bearings) are bought by the builder or planner ... he/she must know with absolute certainty exactly what sizes those wear parts are ... and ... what sizes the adjoining parts ARE. You need to know exactly what sizes the rod and main journals are (had they previously been ground undersize?) and what undersize they are AFTER they've been machined-polished ... use bearings that fit the newly-sized journals. Similar for pistons ... BEFORE you buy ... you need to know exactly what size the bores are AND how much (if any) they may need boring-honing to straighten & clean them up. Without that sizing knowledge ... it's a crap shoot ... some guys win at craps ... most don't. Standard pumps are fine for majority of street machines ... but I also use Hi-Volume op's and will continue to. Regardless what pump-pickup-pan you use ... ensure your target clearance between op pickup and pan is 3/8" ... check & double-check that. Many HV pumps extend pu a bit lower ... possibly too close without checking-adjustment ... if pu is too close to pan the pump will cavitate and not lube motor ... can mimic "pan sucked dry" syndrome. I don't use Hi-Pressure pumps. I don't know what a High Output pump is. Any reputable auto machine shop can do the work ... the small block chevy is the most popular motor for rebuild or hi-po ... has been for many years ... sbc is bread & butter for most shops ... that'll be changing as newer designs establish staying power.
JACK:gap
 
HOW TO: dissassemble pistons and crank?

I have the entire engine torn down except for the crank connections to the piston rods and pistons. I don't know how to take this apart. Can someone run me through it?

Andrew

Thanks a lot guys for all the usefull info.
 
I asume you have the oil pan and pump off. If not ,take them off and you will see the bottoms of the con. rods bolted to the crank. Take the two nuts off of each rod bolt,take the rod cap off and then push the piston and rod out through the top of the cylinder. If there is a lot of carbon build up at the top of the cylinder,scrap or wire wheel it off before you try to drive (or push) the piston/rod assys. out. On a well worn motor you can sometimes push the pistons put by hand but you may have to take a piece of wood and tap the bottom of the con. rod to drive the pistons out. Don't forget to keep the rod caps matched with the rod they came off of. Any questions call 618 242-2628. - Bob P.S Your engine may have a windage tray bolted to the main bearing studs. If that is the case,you will have to take it off before you can get to the rods bolts
 

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