64 wiring issues..HELP PLEASE !!!!

[tbh dom]

:confused :confused c2 wiring issues
64 roadster,
-headlight problem..they always stay on (with ignition off and even after unplugging the headlight switch) only way to turn them off is to disconnect battery
- wiper motor doesn't stop when switch turned off, only when unplugged from fuse panel.
- rear brake lights out....fuse is ok, bulbs are fine..
I'm pretty good with mechanical, but electrical is not my strength. HELP PLEASE!!
If any of you c2 vette gurus could help me out, it would be greatly appreciated.
As i am at my witts end with these electrical problems.
Thanks to all in advance
dom

 

[Mikey1]

Seems that you are not facing only one problem....it might be some more...

For the rear brake lights check for bad ground first....also look for the switch just above the brake pedal....this routs the power through as the brake pedal is pushed and pressure from the switch is relieved....

For the headlights I would definitely check for the switch.....as you are not able to switch them of. I you had a long drive under lights it might have damaged the switch....GM in these days saved the money for a relay and routed the full amps over the switch....if you wanna do something good for a driver install a relay and let the switch just operate the relay...much better...if you use higher power headlights than the original T3's.

Well.....wiper motor...I'm afraid that this is the switch as well...I had some hassle with mine as well...if your motor is working this is at least positive ! Look for the switch as well...it might be a bad ground in the dash....or the switch is internally detoriated.

 

[Tempus_Fugit]

I Know this is kind of backyard, but I like to try to save old original parts if I can. I have had really good luck with WD40 and old switches. The wiper switch might be good candidate for this, because it has a mechanism inside for the washer. Just squirt a bunch of WD in it and see if that fies it. I would remove it first.

The headlight one is scarier, if it works with the switch disconnected, then somehow pwer that should be going to the lights is coming from somewhere other tan the switch. I would check thoroughly all the grounds. Pretty much any piece of metal on the car or any black wire should light up when a 12v test lamp connected to the + terminal on the battery. You can't hurt anything using this method. I would also look very closely all over inder the hood for melted, broken, or disconnected wires. I am always surprised at the problems I find using this method on old cars, I founf 2 problems on my '64 using this method. Many (most?) electrical problems show some sort of physical problem.

One other thing on the brake light is that they rune through the turn signal switch. Sometimes that is the problem. I agree to look at the switch near the pedal first. The little button should pop out when the pedal is depressed.

Let me know how it goes.

John