67 C2 Convert, what's the right way to CLEAN the interior?

[bobmanx]

What's the "correct" items to use to clean the interior of a C2? Door panels, carpet, leather seats, dash pads, Painted console and glove/instrument areas, convertible top headliner, plastic "wood style" sterring wheel, chrome trim, ETC?

Trying to rid my 1967 Convert of cigarette smoke smell, yellow film, years of dust and dont want to damage any of the original interior pieces(my uncle was a HEAVY smoker). What works and will help rid the car of that ashtray smell. Been driving it with the top down, and it is slowly getting better, but when the top is up and it sits closed, anything left in it (jackets etc) smell. What will help and not destroy the interior? Any suggestions?

Vigman, did you get those beers on your birthday?

Thanks Bob

 

[JohnZ]

I've always used "Lexol" leather cleaner and conditioner (two separate products) on all my leather interiors; Lexol has been endorsed by Connolly and othe premier leather suppliers for generations. They also have a companion product called "Vinylex" for use on vinyl that works great, and it doesn't have any greasy silicone in it like Armorall products do. Some major auto parts store chains carry it now, and Eastwood sells it too.

 

[IH2LOSE]

I am a smoker my self.

When ever we purchase a car we get out the 409 cleaner and wash/wipe every thing down,I mean every thing that is not made of fabric.Any thing that is made of fabric we also clean,Then I spray every thing made of fabric with febreeze.Lastley we then treat all of the surfaces with there proper treatment,Mostly armorall.

We once did a mustang that smelled like mildew,The car only had 14,000 miles on it so I wanted to keep every thing I could because it was original stuff,We cleaned evrything and it still had an odor.I went to the pet store and they had a special cleaner we used on all the fabrics,I mean I actuall took the seat covers off and treated the burlap under the seat.Once we were complete the car smelled as new.Good luck remove the heat ducks and clean the inside of them chances are that is a source of some of the odors

 

[6T7Redvette]

Interior Clearner

I used a product from florida call leatherique. It is a two step process but it work like you can't believe. My original 67 leather seats were ready for replacement. This stuff cleaned them and softened them beautifully. Since then I have used this stuff on my BMW's.

 

[bobmanx]

6T7Redvette, IH2LOSE, and JohnZ

Thanks for the suggestions, I did not want to use something that would damage the older surfaces of the interior, and was looking for products that C2 owners had tried, and would recommend. I havent had good results with Armorall in the past so I will try to find the other suggested items local, or thru mail order.

Thanks for the info on the product trials that worked, and the suggested places to clean, (according to the workshop manuals there is not a filter in the AC/Heater unit, but the ducts are a good bet). Isnt the 409 to strong chemical wise for the older painted parts and plastic door panels of a C2 (wouldnt use it on the leather)?

I was thinking about diluted Simple Green to remove the yellow film, Rinse, Rinse with water, then a vinyl treatment to protect what was cleaned, but if the 409 hasnt damaged any C2 vinyl/painted/chrome interior parts then might consider it (original from factory).

Has any one tried a carpet cleaner that worked and did not destroy or shrink the original carpet?

Thanks again, Bob

 

[bluestripe67]

Bob
409 is very strong and unplesent to the noise. Simple Green is easier on the noise and cleans just as well when used per directions. Learned from experience. How about filling us in on the progress of the car.

 

[bobmanx]

Bluestripe67, well since you asked............ I will appologize for the length of this post, right up front! Lol

The car is now California licensed, insured, appraised to get the insurance, and all without a lot of hoops to jump thru! It does not like the "any new and improved" supposedly high octane pump gas, but not sure if its just still getting used to seeing the road again after its nap. It learned a new trick while it was napping, seems that something in the horn button is loose/broken with age, and liked to honk the horns when turning right. Kept looking to see who was upset with me. They did not stay on but would honk in a particuar spot when turning. They have been disconnected until I get time to study the factory shop manuals that I found in the garage at my uncle's house. Has anyone had a telescopic steering/horn button apart on a 1967? Clues, hint-hint?

All five of the Michelins radials on the car were holding at 24 lbs.

Seems to run warm, plan on replacing the "green" coolant and flushing the system, and new hoses ASAP.

Sorry, not as fast as Vigman! But to my defense the car is in Orange Co. and I live in Ventura Co., approx. 80 miles, one way and have had to make two more trips to Beautiful Tucson Az. to finish the off the uncle stuff.

Iam collecting parts to do the clean/repair/replace things when I get down there and get to play. New front parking light assy's, upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat, ETC, ETC,ETC..... like Vig, the list is added to after each visit. It still needs a bath and the interior scrubbed, thats why I asked what wont harm the interior, but will clean it and allow the originality shine thru!

Its a 327/350 hp with 139,000 miles on it, never been apart and what type or mfg of gasoline, other than triple grade Z jet fuel, does anyone recommend to help make it happy. Its got the 336 posi rear end with the M20 4spd trans., and it sounds like its idling at 40mph, on city streets, sounds better in third with the rpm a little higher. LOL What kind of mpg is average for a 327/350 hp, it always seems to be thirsty? Trying not to keep the tank "full" as it doesnt get driven very far yet, and no sense ending up with 20 gals. of bad gas to get rid of.

All new mufflers and pipes from approx. the middle of the car towards the rear exhaust. Could use new taillight housings and exhaust bezels. The passenger side rear bumper is been peeling chrome for quite a while, based on the rusted metal. And there appears to be a spot in the middle of the rear, above the rear bumpers that has been tapped and repaired incorrectly but isnt real noticeable till a close inspection. Basic driver that with time will be improved, (not as fast as Vigman's) but improved, not cut or bastardized or Bubba'd! I want it to be a nice clean drivable Corvette!

Thats the latest, Congrats to Vig for putting the rest of us to shame for not trying to keep up with him and his project. But I think he just want to drive a reliable Corvette and has more spare time than the rest of us here. I applaud his efforts and progress! Go Vig, Go!

Thanks Bob

 

[bobmanx]

And now we return to our original post, on cleaning the interior of a original 1967 C2 Convertible!

After trying the Simple Green on a sunvisor, it looks like it WILL remove the dirt, the smoke yellow stuff and the smell, and does not leave the vinyl sticky to the touch. Should the vinyl and plastic parts be treated with any conditioner/protectant after I clean it and rinse it with water (Please, not Armorall)? What about the painted interior parts (console and glove box door)?

And now for the next strange question, has anyone tried cleaning the headliner of the convertible soft top. Its black and a fabric type of material. Any suggestions or cautions so its not ruined or spotted by the cleaning process?


Thanks everyone for all your help and educating us new guys!

Bob

 

[6T7Redvette]

Interior Cleaner

bobmanx,
Stop fooling around with the crappy stuff. Try the Leatherique. My seats are original. I was ready to replace until I used this stuff. Use it on a hot day. It work great. All that other stuff is doing more damage than good.
http://www.leatherique.com/prod03.htm

 

[bluestripe67]

Bob, Congratulations on the major progress, I'm sure it shows. About the gas consumption...have you done a major tune up? Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser, air filter for starters. Is the timing adjusted properly? Do you know if the vacuum advance is working properly. A evaulation/rebuild of the distributor may help. Keep up the good work.

 

[bobmanx]

6T7Redvette,

I havent tried anything on the leather, I will get the stuff you recommended and give the seats a shot. Since the car was in Tucson Az. the leather is nice and dry. I was just waiting to hear what was recomended by the people that have tried products, their results and go from there. In the website that you listed they are talking leather and not vinyl, right? I dont plan on using the Simple Green on the leather, and will not use Armorall on anything I own. Have you used the leatherique on any vinyl in your vette. or just the leather?

Bluestripe67,

No, I havent checked the distributor (wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser) timing, vac advance, but plan on taking it in to a place with testing equip. soon to give it the once over. It seems to idle, and runs strong, starts easily, but tends to try to run slightly after the key is turned off. Its not "pinging", or blowing black smoke or blue smoke for that matter when started or during acceleration, exhaust pipes insides dont look black.

"Always Thirsty" comment was compared to my Isuzu Rodeo V6 and no SB, 4 barrel carb'd, Corvettes in my history to compare it to, Sorry! LOL

As far as filters, air and gas, yes replaced the air filter and cleaned the gas screen at the carb fuel inlet, and pumped any remaining gas in the tank/lines out into a coffee can prior to reconnecting to the carb, after draining tank, and adding 10 gallons of "new high test 91 octane" Union 76. Is there a "factory" fuel filter hidden some where that I havent found yet? Its not being driven at the moment other than to be appraised and licensed, so ASAP its into a trusted shop to have it scoped and the verdict will tell me what and if its all working. I dont plan any trips with it yet, not until its all checked out and any repairs/parts replaced/adjustments made first.

Thanks for the heads up on the distributor/timing etc. Since the "factory workshop" manual and supplement were written when the gas was leaded and higher octane, and the gas of today is unleaded and lower octane, what is recommended timing for a 327/350hp stock motor with 4spd and AC? Still use the same factory settings or ?

Again Thanks for any and all info and suggestions, They help in the education process. As was mentioned in some one's previous post, " There is no Replacement for Displacement"! (even tho its not a Big Block)!!!

Bob

 

[JohnZ]

Bob -

The only fuel filter is the one in the carb inlet (other than the "sock" in the fuel tank pickup for the fuel sender).

Stick with the 10* BTDC (vacuum disconnected and plugged) at 750-800 rpm timing setting, and verify that the centrifugal advance is working (should add 30* to base timing at 5,000 rpm, vacuum disconnected), and check the vacuum advance at idle - should add 15* to base timing at idle when you connect it. If you hear any "pinging" on that Kalifornia gas, back off the base timing two degrees at a time until it stops.

 

[bobmanx]

JohnZ,

Thanks for the timing tips, will print that out so the shop knows what to set the timing for that Kalif Gas, And make sure that the centrifical and vac. advances are doing the proper thing. Short of buying racing gas and mixing the real with the Kalif. Gas, is there any thing other than timing or reworking the heads to deal with the lower octane thats available in todays gas stations (lead additives or octane boosters that are not going to damage the carb and lines)? I haven't heard any "pinging", sounds good, Loud but Good (lol), and runs without coughing/sputtering/hesitations, but runs a little after ignition is shutdown. Other than that no complaints, it has plenty of power!

What do the stock 427 BB's do to run on the street, thats realistic?

Thanks Bob

 

[427/390]

Another tip for making the interior smell a little better is to use COFFEE (really) - either sprinkle some on the carpet and leave it for a day, then thoroughly vacuum or put it in an open container, close the windows almost all the way and leave for a couple of days. In addition to the smell of the coffee usually offsetting other odors, I believe it absorbs moisture which carries and harbors odors - Joe

 

[bobmanx]

Thanks Joe, anything to get rid of that "ashtray smell", and its already a tan interior. What are you using as gas to keep your BB happy? Does it like pump gas or ?

Thanks Bob

 

[427/390]

You can try a product called Ozium for the ashtray - they sell it in hardware stores and tobacco shops. The obvious thing is to wash it (and everything else) with soap and water or simple green. Also, Lemon pledge sprayed on a rag and wiped on vinyl surfaces will produce results similar to Armor All and impart a smell much better than cigarettes..

I had so many detonation problems with the original 427/390 engine in my car (even after retarding the ignition, upgrading the distributor, etc.) that I recently pulled it and put in a crate 502 which doesn't ping at all - I always just use the best gas they have at whatever gas station I go to....

 

[bobmanx]

Well, lets just say that those white cotton towels will never be white again!

Been busy cleaning the interior of the convert. and its progressing. The ashtray smell is disappearing along with the yellow that was every where, didnt some of the smoke blow out the windows? LOL

The Simple Green has been cutting thru the yellow and the layers of dust and dirt, and it really is a tan interior! Its starting to look and smell better. The plastic window knobs are really light biege? I thought they were brown! And Windex is cleaning all the chrome inside the car, even the circular pattern in the window knob arms had "yellow residue", its gone now!

I used "Vinylex" on the plastic parts after rinsing twice and drying them, it leaves everything sort of a satin finish, not high gloss, not sticky and looks good. It has not been turning the white towels beige, like it was removing any of the color from the interior parts (door panels, dash pads, etc).

I havent touched the leather seats yet.

I fixed the "Clean" Limp sun visors, they always wanted to stay in the down position. The problem was in the screw system that tightens/pinch the visors to chrome pins that are mounted to the windshield. The screws and nuts bottomed out before they provided enough friction on the pins. Put a nylon finishing washer under the chrome finishing washer, which provides just that little bit more distance so the screws dont bottom out on the special nuts before they tighten on the pins. You can not see them when they are installed, (they are hidden by the chrome washers and the vinyl of the visors). Put one on the screw side, of each end of the visor, was all it took to get them to stay put where ever you want them. Easy modify of a screwdriver to fit the special slotted nuts.

So at this point I'm still cleaning, and trying to keep up with Vig's enthusiasim for fixing things as I find them.

Has anyone tried cleaning the fabric of a Corvette convertible headliner with anything, and the results?

Thanks for the info on the cleaning and protection products that people have tried.


Bob

 

[RedRagTop]

bobmanx; panties, of course!:t

 

[bobmanx]

RJSROCKET,

Would you care to explain the headliner cleaning proceedure that you refered to (with visual aids), and the results? Im sure other convertible owners would be interested in the latest advances in automotive cleaning methods, and would be willing to give it a try, ASAP! Right everyone (needed to be politicly correct here)?

I can see the forum moderator watching this thread for content (sorry Tom). LOL

Thanks, Bob

 

[RedRagTop]

Just insinuating that you've certainly got the car for it.
Actually, as a placatism I use the Armor-all wipes for most interior surfaces, seems to work OK for now but am keeping an eye for discolouration as per tires. For fabric that cannot be removed I don't know, maybe a spot shampoo cleaner?