86 Rear wheel bearings/hubs

[thom]

Has anyone replaced your rear wheel bearings/hubs? I checked mine, with wheel off ground, hands at top and bottom of tire, and found some movement. I am thinking of replaced both rear hubs.
Do you think, I'll notice less vibration, only feel slight vibration now (50 mph and up)and wonder if this could be the source ???, all other suspension parts, alignment, and tire balance, are good..
They are expensive, but if they are the source, don't care about the cost...

Thanks

 

[Mart]

Welcome Thom,

I just did my front hubs, mainly becuse the first owner had messed things up with the studs trying to mount 88 wheels.

Anyway, when I finnished I was amazed at the diference, I am working my way to the backs now. I will also be replacing some bushings as well.

I do have a couple of questions however

How many miles on the car, and as I also have an 86 I am wondering what # yours is, the last 5 numbers of the VIN

Again welcome to the CAC

 

[thom]

mart

thanks for your response, I am out of town this week, therefore can't check VIN#. It's a late 86, bought it new and know that there were only about 1100 built after it. just turn over 60k. Did'nt order Z51, ordered all the Z51 stuff, 3:07 rear, oil cooler,gas shocks,etc just did'nt get the HD springs.- ordered it with light gray interior to go with the dark red met exterior..

I'll let you know the last 5, when I get home..

Thom

 

[scorp508]

Your best bet for the rear bearings is Pepboys @ $139.99 with a lifetime replacement warranty. They are Timkin bearings which are the same thing you'd get from GM.

The job isn't that bad. You will need a 36mm socket (usually can rent them for ~$15 if you don't have one) and I think a T-45 or T-55 socket.

1. Jack up one side of the car
2. Remove the wheel
3. Unhook emergency brake cable with a flat screwdriver
4. Remove caliper and hang it out of the way (I think 19mm wrenches)
5. Remove rotor and toss it for the dog to catch
6. Remove cotter pin from spindle
7. Remove small castle looking cover thingy from spindle
8. Remove 36mm nut with impact gun or by hand
9. Remove 3 T-45 (or T-55) bolts from rear of knuckle
10. Pull entire hub assembly straight off of the car.

Use a QUALITY Torx bit like the high end ones from Snap-On. its a real ***** when you strip or break a bit in the middle of doing this. The torx bolts are sort of a pain to get to with the halfshaft in place, but you can get at them easier if you use a 3/8" drive wrench with a 6" or 12" extension on it.


Upon reassembly use a new cotter pin and the Torx bolts should be I think 60 ft/lb and the 36mm nut 164 ft/lb for an automatic or 200 ft/lb for a stick car.

Don't lose the big washer that is behind the 36mm nut, many don't notice it and accidently throw it away as it is very thin.

While you have the bearing assembly off I would grease up the splines on the spindle. Either pack them full of antiseize or some chassis grease. As the car gets older the spindle splines get surface rust on them and can cause "clicking" from a stop that can be misunderstood as u-joints.

Also.... when a wheel bearing goes a lot of times it takes the outer u-joint with it. Inspect those and replace if necessary.


Good luck!

 

[jsinga]

A lot of the vibration at high speed that you can't seem to get rid of turns out to be bad u-joints. U-joints are easy to do while you are in there.
Best way to check those wheel bearings is with a dial indicator by the proceedure in the shop manual. As I remember they should be less than .006 end play.
I've got almost 100k miles on Pep Boys bearings and they are still tight.

JS

 

[TALMADGE 1]

Just replaced my rear wheel bearings last month. Like Scorp508 said 139.99 at Pepboys with Lifetime Warrenty. Wow what a difference it made. Mine is a 1988 with 105,000 miles. I had heard at 100,000 to get ready to replace rearhubs and ujoints.