Help! 88 wouldn't turn over to start!

[christophervan]

Hi everybody, Today after driving for an hour, in almost 100 degree weather, my 88 c4 failed me after siiting for about 30 minutes, turn the key and the starter would not engage, no click or anything, the battery was fully charged, all lights came on and only slightly dimmed when the key was tirned to start. Then magically in about 1 hour it turned over and started. I had been trying every 10 minutes or so wishing for a miracle.
Anyway, the only observation I noted was I seemed to be running really hot prior to this, coolant was 220 as well as the oil temp when I pulled over for lunch.
I'm getting ready for about a 2000 mile trip in two weeks and now I'm worried. Once it finally started earlier today I drove home, another hour in the same heat, although the engine was about 10 degrees cooler, once home I could not repeat the none starting syndrome....

Any ideas?????;help

 

[Schrade]

Welcome onto the boards there...

Check your key for pocket lint, dirt, jam from grubby fingers with fried chicken n biscuit grease, all of which will change the impedance of the chip (including those golden trophys that you pick when no one's lookin', and you gotta' go the the second knuckle too to get a hook on :L ).

Seriously, all them goodies WILL interfere with resistance, and trip up VATS. I think the cycle time is 8 minutes - maybe 10 or 12, not sure. You can clear the clock by disconnecting the battery too for a minute or 2 as well. Put an old toothbrush on the key for some cleanin'.

VATS is the first thing coming to mind with a full battery. If the starter is takin' a heat hit, it would probably click rapid in the solenoid...

 

[vetteoz]

I think the cycle time is 8 minutes - maybe 10 or 12, not sure.

Reset time is 5 min.

Have you got a 2nd key to try when it happens again?

 

[Baldie88]

I had the exact same problem as yours. I bypassed the VATS, cleaned all ground connections, replaced the starter interrupt relay behind the DIC, got a new battery. Even jumping it, it would only start one out of 10 times. It wasn't until I actually replaced the starter itself was the problem fixed. Mine is an 88 also and I believe the starters for the C4s was prone to heat soak. Anyway, that's how I fixed mine.

I know how you feel. Like you never trust it. I took part in the opening day ceremonies for the 90th Indy and the darn thing wouldn't start after getting it on the track. Talk about embarrassing!

Ron
"Baldie88"

 

[vetteboy86]

Try the second key. If that doesn't work, probably the starter. I had an issue like this. Heat soak from the headers with no heat shield around starter/solenoid. Original starter/solenoid?

 

[christophervan]

Thanks all! I suspected the VATS also, I do have spare keys but not with me then, I'll be certain to keep them on hand and keep those golden treasures off my keys!
I have a quick disconnect on the battery and actually tried that twice, but only for a minute or so.
I wish I could get it to act up at home, or atleast close by....
As for the starter, would anybody argue not to replace it after 20 years and 82000 miles just as a precaution? Don't want to waste money but if they do take a big hit from heat it may be worth every penny.
Thanks again...great site, and great help, it's much appreciated!

 

[vetteoz]

As for the starter, would anybody argue not to replace it after 20 years and 82000 miles just as a precaution? Don't want to waste money but if they do take a big hit from heat it may be worth every penny.

After 20 years and less than $100 for replacement I think it would be worth the expense for the piece of mind.
NEW STARTER CHEVY CORVETTE 1988 1989 1990 1991 :eBay Motors (item 360181154030 end time Sep-17-09 08:19:51 PDT)

 

[christophervan]

Thanks vetteoz! I guess that's a no brainer....thanks for the link! I was thinking twice that amount easy!
And I suppose the relay should be replaced as well??

 

[vetteoz]

And I suppose the relay should be replaced as well??

No starter relay as in older cars.
The solenoid which commonly wears and gives problems is part of the new starter. You also have a starter enable relay under the dash that is operated by the VATS (Easily bypassed if it gives problems ) as well as the inhibitor switch on the shifter or clutch pedal for stick cars as part of the starting circuit

 

[vetteoz]

Starter circuit here

http://misterbill.homeip.net/vette/wiring/starter.jpg

 

[Schrade]

Thanks vetteoz! I guess that's a no brainer....thanks for the link! I was thinking twice that amount easy!
And I suppose the relay should be replaced as well??

I disagree...

I would MAYBE get a starter bench test FIRST at Advance / Zone, before spending cash and knowing nothing definitive.

 

[christophervan]

I believe I will bypass the VATS and see if it cures it, I believe the starter is good as well.
Thanks for all the help guys, very much appreciated!
My next step is to see if i can get it to run cooler, I feel 220 on a 100 degree day is cooking, I'll be checking for a dirty or debris covered radiator. I've considered replacing the thermostat and may even look into a chip and the 160 degree thermostat....any suggestion here?

 

[caninelver]

Hello Christophervan,

I also have a 88 and I rarely try to give mechanical advice as I am no mechanic. But I will say that I had the same concern about the heat when I first got my car. It always ran 220 to 230 unless I was moving. I was told by many people on here not to worry, its apparently normal. However, I am a worrier by nature. I tried a bunch of little things like changing from the 180 thermostat to the 165. I put in a K & N air filter and cut the louvers open on the air filter box. Nothing changed my temperature. Then I put in a Stewart high flow water pump and their special thermostat. The pump is aluminum and is designed to increase flow rates at idle. I don't know how it works but it has made a big difference. My temps rarely go over 200 at idle no matter how hot it is and when moving its usually between 180 and 190 degrees. They have a web site that you can check them out. Good luck. Also, I would consider having your starter rebuilt instead of getting a different one which is probably going to be rebuilt anyway. At least you know it fits correctly.

 

[Schrade]

. I was told by many people on here not to worry, its apparently normal.

99% of the time, I say peoples' words mean nothing, until the sound stops. After that, they mean even less

But this is one time it means something. These cars were designed to run this way. They're designed to not begin cooling until they get to 228. And surely there's tolerance of probably 25 degrees or more, for cooling fan system failure. I imagine engineers wrote that into the computer's code.

Perhaps that's why the ignition module is ON the cylinder head

However, I am a worrier by nature.

Stop. You'll live longer.

Do what you can, then rest easy.

If you're NOT doing what you can, THEN you will have problems...