Help! 98 corvette a/c problem

[sandmanjws]

My a/c is blowing cold air on the drivers side and really hot air out of the passenger side outlet. This all started after the battery was disconnected for service. I went thru the codes and cleared them all and freon level is good. The codes that keep showing back up after the clearing procedure are BO365, BO367, AND BO446. During the code clearing process you can hear activity taking place under the dash but as soon as the key is back in the switch and the vehicle is restarted the codes and hot air is back. I tried the reset procedure 4 times and no luck, still hot air. Please, help.

Thanks, Jimmy

 

[XLR8]

Hi Jimmy... and welcome to the

There are a few threads related to this issue, the most recent I know of is here: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com.../129116-help-my-97-blowing-hot-cold-once.html

In that thread is a suggestion for resetting the actuator -> http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...-my-97-blowing-hot-cold-once.html#post1088355 which may be all you need at this time.

Another cause is a broken actuator, which was the case with my 98 several years ago.

This is another useful thread for C5 owners with several links: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c5-general-discussion/100848-new-world-c5-corvette.html

And you'll want to bookmark the link to the Diagnostic Trouble Code List in the CAC C5 Knowledgebase: Corvette Action Center Knowledgebase :: 1997 - 2000: Diagnostic Trouble Codes

Hopefully this will give you a starting point of things to look at and once you look up your codes and post them in this thread, some of our more technically inclined members can offer more suggestions.

Enjoy the CAC!
Jane Ann

 

[sandmanjws]

Thanks for the info. Jane Ann, will let you know the results after I try the suggestions. I appreciate the help and this site. Jimmy

 

[Junkman2008]

One more thing. You stated that you checked the refrigerant level and that it was good. Exactly how did you check it and what was the exact amount of R-134 did you read? Your car is supposed to have an EXACT amount of R-134 and if not, more or less can create this same issue. I did a very extensive writeup on this subject so I'm really, really experienced with it after going through it myself.

 

[sandmanjws]

Thanks, clearing and resetting codes, pulling the fuse procedure did not work. Will check for an exact freon charge. It blows cold out of the drivers side and my gage showed 35 on the low side. Thanks for the tip and I will let you know if it works

Jimmy

 

[Junkman2008]

... It blows cold out of the drivers side and my gage showed 35 on the low side.

And there is exactly where so many people go wrong with trying to diagnose their AC issues. These cars do not work like your dad's 78' Buick. My gauges showed that my system was fully charged but when I used a ACR 2000 to check the actual freon amount, my car showed .4lbs of R-134a. I should have had 1.5lbs. This discrepancy was all it took for my system to do exactly as yours is doing. Once I added the correct amount of refrigerant, the system worked flawlessly

Now since you have a 1998, you are looking at the possibility of 2 different failures. The failure of leaking R-134a as mentioned above or the failure of one of your actuators itself. On the 1997-2000, there was an issue with the actuators going past the allotted ranges that they are designed to work in. In 2001, GM changed the actuators design by adding physical stops to them so that the actuators could not go out of range. For the 1997-2000 models, the service manual has you open the actuator up and adjust the gears slightly in order to get the actuator back into spec. If that didn't work, they had you replace the actuator with the newer design. Not a cheap fix that is as those actuators can run close to $300. The actuators are the devices that open and close the doors inside the dash, which allows hot or cold air to come through the vents. There are 2, one on the driver's side and one on the passenger's side. The driver's side can be removed without removing the dash. The passenger's is another story.

Here is a newer actuator with the built in stops. The actuator on your car does not have these right and left limit stops and thus, the actuator can get out of range.

If your system is low on R-134a, then you have a leak as the AC system is sealed. I covered how to replace the various parts of the AC system in this thread. If you have the correct tools, it is not too bad of a job. It will bust your knuckles though.

 

[vette_man62]

Just had mine repaired for that same symptoms. Tried resetting the actuator door by pulling the fuse, was low on refrigerant so topped that off, still nothing. Finally took it to the local Chevrolet Dealer and $800.00 dollars later...works like a charm. They replaced a few vacuum hoses under the battery compartment,and the actuator unit was bad. There are a lot of easy fixes here, but unfortunately, as usual, mine was the worst case lol. Good luck and I hope yours turns out to be something simple.

 

[Dad2BJO]

Mine is doing the same thing...

01 Z06. Blows cold out of passenger and hot out of driver. I had dealer check it out and they said it could "possibly" be an actuator and would start with that but quoted me $1100 to fix the actuator but also said that may not be the right fix.

I am assuming (hate to assume) that they checked everything else out and came to this conclusion but my gut is telling me they are "assuming" it is the actuator only.

Thanks

 

[Junkman2008]

01 Z06. Blows cold out of passenger and hot out of driver. I had dealer check it out and they said it could "possibly" be an actuator and would start with that but quoted me $1100 to fix the actuator but also said that may not be the right fix.

I am assuming (hate to assume) that they checked everything else out and came to this conclusion but my gut is telling me they are "assuming" it is the actuator only.

Thanks

If you go back and read this thread, follow the links in this thread, you will answer your own question. Checking the system yourself is simple enough that a 10 year old could do it. If performing the actuator reset procedure doesn't fix your problem, then you are most likely low on R-134a. The actuators in the 2001 and up SELDOM go bad. Your dealership sucks to high hell if they can't tell you exactly what the problem is. Better yet, they don't want to because you obviously look like a Brinks truck to them.

What they should have done is checked your refrigerant level with a ACR 2000 or equivalent. I bet your R-134a is low if the recalibration doesn't fix your issue. How do I know? Been there and done that in this thread. Then I did a writeup about it in this thread.

 

[Dad2BJO]

Your dealership sucks to high hell if they can't tell you exactly what the problem is.

This is why I posted this and yes when time permits I will check myself. If low on R134 I have anonther Mech. I can take too. Posted another thread about a fuel guage issue and I took the car to the dealer when I had BOTH issues. AC they could not figure out and now fuel issue they can not figure out, I am a smart guy and see a pattern forming......

 

[Junkman2008]

This is why I posted this and yes when time permits I will check myself. If low on R134 I have anonther Mech. I can take too. Posted another thread about a fuel guage issue and I took the car to the dealer when I had BOTH issues. AC they could not figure out and now fuel issue they can not figure out, I am a smart guy and see a pattern forming......

The fuel gauge issue is WELL known. If they are a GM dealership, they should be well aware of this or they are trying to rip you. Save yourself some headaches with the fuel gauge problem. Get a bottle of Gumout's Fuel Injection Cleaner (white, yellow or gray bottle, it doesn't matter), dump that in your tank and fill it up. Do that until your gauge starts working (or working consistently), and then add a bottle every 3-4 tanks after that. Your fuel gauge issue will disappear. I've done that for years and my problem has not shown up anymore. I use to use TechronPLUS but it is not as consistant as Gunout's product. Plus, Gumout's product is MUCH cheaper.

Remember with your R-134a, the amount that is supposed to be in there is VERY specific. Too much or too little will affect the operation of your AC. If you are low in refrigerant, you have a leak that needs to be addressed. That's why having your system evacuated with the ACR 2000 (or equivalent) is so important. It will show EXACTLY how much R-134a is in the system. It will also refill the system and then monitor it for a leak, all while you wait in the customer's lobby. If the leak is bad, the green dye that they shoot into the system will leak out. If not, you'll probably just be good for the summer but the refrigerant will eventually leak out again.

 

[Toms007]

AJ, not to hijack, but I've also had good luck with Seafoam in the tank.

 

[Junkman2008]

AJ, not to hijack, but I've also had good luck with Seafoam in the tank.

I read a post by Paul that stated that Seafoam didn't contain the additive to address the fuel issue. I have never tried Seafoam so I don't have a clue.

 

[Toms007]

If the Gumout product has the additive and it's cheaper, then I'll start using it.

 

[Junkman2008]

It works better, faster and more consistent than TechronPLUS ever did. I found it by accident while on a trip. Couldn't find any TechronPLUS and used the Gumout instead. I have not had a problem since.

 

[xdmikey]

Is this stuff now in a clear bottle and is a yellow liquid?

thanks.

 

[Junkman2008]

Is this stuff now in a clear bottle and is a yellow liquid?

thanks.

You need to be a LOT more descriptive with your questions or no one will ever respond. I wasn't going to at first.

 

[xdmikey]

I will try to post a pic later but it's called Gumout Fuel Injector Cleaner, comes in a clear bottle(bought this week)and the fluid is yellow.

I added a bottle to a quarter tank then topped it off and I swear it felt a little stronger-running, at least by my butt Dyno!

 

[Junkman2008]

Yes, that is the product used to resolve the fuel gauge issue but you must also ensure that you are using nothing but top tier gasoline, 93 octane.

 

[xdmikey]

Shell 93 octane is what I run in all my cars and truck.

Thank you for clarifying that.

I now have another issue: my alarm function doesn't work. Could this be due to the pulling of fuse #27? My remote is less than a year old and the car is driven less than occasionally.