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A/C blowing on floor and windshield FIXED

I second the "Thanks"

My vac leak ended up being the T check valve on the right side of the engine. If it wasn't for you guys I might never have looked there ! That part got so hot it had a hole in it and was so brittle it fell apart when I tried to take it out.

While I was there I also cleaned out the leaves, pine needles and acorns. For the heck of it I also checked the other side and found a HAND FULL of what looked like rabbit food pellets ? I know the second owner stored the car in an old barn for the winter. Guess someone found it a great home for themselves. Wont the suprise be on that little rodent when he goes back for his stash and it's gone :)

Thanks again !
These forums are great for info sharing like this vs. paying a Chevy dealer $200 to fix a $6 part ! ! !
 
Windshield/Floor AC...

Hello All !
Man am I glad to have found this thread ! My 96 is doing the exact same thing. Upon initial start up and A/C engagement, regardless of the setting, it blows on the windshield and floor. You can bet that I will be checking the things which everyone has posted ! Thanks all for the info. and I was wondering, did anyone happen to take a pic of the valve assembly that's located on the firewall over the gas pedal while they had it out ? It would help me alot if I knew what I was looking for before I compresed myself into that contorted position !(6'4") LoL..


:w
Steve.
 
ac box under dask

Hi - No I did not take any pictures but you cant miss it. Just look up the firewall above the gas pedal. It is a dark black or grey box slightly rectangular in shape and has multi colored vacuum hoses connected to the front and electrical wires connected to the top or end depending on your perspective.
 
Thanks...

I appreciate the response GH, now I have something to do this weekend !


:w
Steve.
 
This is really late, but this post helped me out, and I wanted to add a few notes from my efforts.

I am going to attach some photos of the repair to help future owners.

Here is what I did:

Removed the lower panel on the driver's side 6 fasteners (see picture).

unscrewed the ODBII connector, and unplugged light.

pulled the hood release to allow the panel to slip out (see photo)

Do ever back strecthing exercise you can think of....

stick your head by the gas pedal and look up.

The connector on mine is green rubber with colored hoses coming into it (see picture)

My nut was already off the connector. I flattened it with a hammer to get it ready to go back on. I probably should have purchased a nut to put on the stud instead.

I disconnected the connector, started the engine, and felt for the suction on the black source hose.

I got a deep well socket to match the nut that was holding the ac programmer to its bracket. I tightened the nut as much as I could (by hand!!!!!!!)

I didn't have any grease, but I would have liked to put a thin coating of grease on the connector to help seal the vacuum ports and to allow it to go on easier and better. Watch what you use! Don't put something on the rubber that will desolve it over time.

I put the connector back in place and pushed until I had a good seal. The vents worked perfectly.

I think this next step will help if you choose not to use a nut to retain the connector. ... I put the retainer on the post. Next, I got a small diameter deep socket and used it as a ram-rod on the retainer to securely seat it. I think it worked well.


I really think some grease would have helped... long-term. I will try it next time it stops working!!!!!!

Hope this helps someone in the future.
 
This is the hood latch passage on the lower panel
 
small retainer we have all been complaining about. I can scan a service manual picture if anyone needs it.
 
I just got mine back from the dealer (same problem) fixed under ext warr. Dealer said pinched vac line under the dash.

My symptoms were that (intermittently) NONE of the electronic controls would work. Temp stuck on 90 deg & down arrow is dead. Fan stuck on 10 or 1 & fan speed would not respond. Different modes (dash, feet, defrost) would not respond.

Seemed like it was all electronic. How can a vacuum leak cause all those electronic controls to go wack?

Thanks!

Even though the problem is solved, I'm still trying to figure out how vacuum stuff results in electronic controls going wack. I would figure that you would just get a mode (like defrost) that would not blow?
 
Vac hose and electronics

I don't know all the answers but I do know that the vac hose from the engine supplies the vac that is then distributed through a series of electronic solinoids to make the various vent positions work depending on what buttons you have pushed.
 
How would a line suddenly get pinched?
 
Whew, What a great thread!

Have it bookmarked and ready to re read a dozen times before I get out there in the heat!

Thanks everyone
Rain
 
This is a great post. I have the same problem. I just got the car and it seems someone already worked in this area because the module was not bolted on. I do have a question. On mine I have a blank male vacuum port on the connector. Does every one else have a blank?

I looked for a wayward hose but didn't find one. I checked every line as prescribed, including the engie bay, but mine is still blowing to default. I'll wrestle with it a bit more, but it may be to the dealership for me...:cry
 
Chevy dealer

Gman, if you go to the Mainstreet Chevy dealer ask for Andy ("the corvette guy"). I was highly referred to him about a year ago when I bought the 84 and he has done TONS of work on that car. Good Luck! PS: if you really want to spark his interest, ask him about his mini-bikes that he builds:D
 
A/C blows to windshield for GMAN

Hi GMAN - I can not remember about the blank hose connection. But, my problem was solved by making a very very tight connection between the male and female rubber connectors on that module up under the dask. I threaded a long screw and placed an nut over the screw then an extension over the screw so I could more easily get to the nut I placed on the screw and tightened it down. Worked great ever since then. I have sold that car but it worked for over a year.
 
JTB thanks for the tip, man! I really appreciate it!! I really don't go to dealerships often, but this is one time I have to. I'll ask him about his mini-bikes, too. Whenever we meet, I owe you one:beer

ghfun, I really wanted to dig into it further, but I have a back problem and that contorted position over the sill and upside down was agony. I thought about yanking the seat out for a more comfortable position ( without the sill jammed in my back ) but I figured I'd be better off having a pro deal with it. Also, since the module was not bolted in, I'd rather have someone look at it that knows exactly what he/she is looking for. I do apreciate all the info, though. If one of my buds runs into this problem, I can help him with it...I just won't help him wrench on it...:cool
 
Hey GMAN - I can understand 100% about the back problem. It is a gwad awful position to be in upside down with that sill breaking your back. Just that I have heard so many times that dealers relace the whole module for like $300-500.00 when all you need is 50 cents worth of stuff. That is unless you have a different problem and the module is really bad. Problem is you will never know. The mechanics in the shop can not do a jury rig job like I did, which is too bad because it will last forever, whereas GM's original equipment didnt last 22,000 miles. Good luch I hope they dont soak you too bad.
 
Yeah ghfun, I try to avoid dealerships as much as possible. But, in this situation I feel it's best. Plus, I'm going to try to talk directly to the guy JTB mentioned. I know the fix is going to be by the book, but it's gotta be better than the guy who worked on it for the previous owner. He didn't even bolt the module back on...:eek...Anyway, I'll let you know what happens.
 
Good Luck and let me know what happens. You have what I just sold, a 96 LT4 Black Beauty (triple black). Ill be curious to see what they say it is.
 

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