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A plea to the knowledgeable: Conventional vs. Synthetics

Bolisk

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2007
Messages
441
Location
Crystal Lake IL
Corvette
1972 LS5 Convertible PS, PB, A/C
(Note: Before you respond to this thread . . . please read at least the first paragraph.)

I would really appreciate it if someone could provide factual technical reasons for why people should not use synthetic oils in older car components (engine, tans, diff). I’m not all that interested in hearsay (i.e. he/she said, I heard, I was told no to . . . arguments). If you’re potential response uses one of those hearsay statements . . . please don’t respond to this thread, because there are plenty of hearsay threads already.

This discussion bothers me because it seems as if nearly all oil companies have admitted that synthetics are better in nearly all conditions. Most auto manufactures are now offering synthetics in their new cars off the line. That said, for the life of me, I cannot understand why anyone would ever suggest that synthetics are not the preferred choice for our older Corvettes, or at least a good option.

Classic example: I was recently read the riot act, with regards to using synthetic oils, by a well known Corvette shop owner. When I inquired as to why not, he always came back to three arguments:

1) Synthetic’s leak from the seals.
2) Synthetic’s cause limited slip/posi units to chatter (i.e. make noise).
3) Synthetic’s do not work with the tolerances of the older components.

He regaled me with stories of countless customer cars that have come into his shop with synthetics leaking out the seals and differentials making horrible noises. Then, as expected, when he replaced the synthetic with conventional lube and a bottle of the GM friction modifier (key point there), all the problems went away.

What bothers me is that he didn’t take the time to root cause the actual problem. His mind was made up before he started the job. He simply did what he knew from experience and left it at that. Please don’t misunderstand me. This is 100% fine for him, his business, and his customers who most likely just want the problem fixed. It’s not necessarily in his best interest as a business owner to spend the time to determine if the customer used the correct synthetic and the proper amount of additives in their differential. It’s far better for him to go with something he knows works and then move on to the next job.

Having said that, the negative side affect to this practice is that ultimately this results in yet another corvette owner who now believes that synthetics are the root of all things evil, and they post their experiences on these forums, therefore perpetuating the “potential” myth that synthetics do not work in our Corvettes.

Now it would seem to me, when I look at the three arguments above, that if the seals (or gaskets) leak, then I need to replace the seals/gaskets. If the differential makes noise; then that would lead me to believe that there isn’t the proper amount of friction modifier added to the gear lube (regardless of conventional or synthetic). So with my limited knowledge, the first two arguments don’t seem like arguments at all. They seem like side affects of semi-worn out seals, and not mixing the correct amount of additive. The only argument that holds water is the argument regarding tolerances. Problem is no one ever has any technical data to back that up.

Yes, I’m aware that the Eaton FAQ webpage says that Eaton recommends conventional lube. Now, that is the ONLY document that has me questioning synthetics in my diff. Having said that, I’ve sent letters and e-mails to Eaton asking for details as to why (making a point to ask for technical details)? I also asked them if in fact their FAQ simply regurgitated what their documentation from the 60’s and 70’s say, and whether that information is now stale. To date, I have not received a response. If I ever receive one, I will post it here.

So, back to my plea. Is there anyone out there that knows (with technical data) why synthetics should not be used (if not preferred) in our old cars?

Best regards to all,
JonR
 
I should point out that I have run synthetics in all three componets of my and my friends car. We did experience the leaks (where we seemingly had none before) and the diff chatter.

Having said that, replacing the seals, and adding the proper ammount of aditive solved both those problems.

Regards,
JonR
 
Synthetics "leak" from old gaskets that didn't leak on dino oil because it penetrates better than dino oil. At 59 I'm old enough to remember the similar fight that went on about detergent oil VS non-detergent. How did that one work out for non-detergent oils? Ever seen non-detergent oil in a parts store? Mulitiviscosity VS straight weight was about the same clear through the 70s for diesel engines.

While not a Corvette, I drove my 62 Chrysler with a built 440 back to Austin, TX from a Carlisle, PA Chrysler show when the car developed a severe overheating problem. Ran over 1,000 miles @ 240 to 260F and made it home. When we tore down the engine I had managed to cook Mobil 1 but all bearing jurnals and cylinder bores were still in spec. Don't cook Mobil 1 it REALLY stinks!

My son's 93 has 103K and about 6 BB Open Road Races (118 miles round trip at max throttle), has always been on M1 and still has the cross hatch in the bores and bearings were in spec for new.

The only thing I'll agree to with the Vette expert is using M1 in an old engine is the possibility of leaks BUT the same leak would develop eventually anyway. Another note to M1 is only the 15-50 has the extra zink for flat tappet cams.
 
Actually,

According to Mobile (when I asked), only their High Milage SL rated oils have the high levels of ZDDP in their oil. And they recommed those oils for broken-in flat-tappet / solid lifters.

I'm running Mobile 1 in my engine because my engine does have solid flat-tappet lifters.

I ran Rotella 15-40 for a while. . .but it was way too thick.

-JonR
 
I have twin big blocks in my boat and I run them hard. I used to leave the boat club with 50-55 PSi of oil pressure on 20W/50 and by the time I got to the marina that sold beer The oil pressure was down to 40 at 5000 RPM. I switched to Mobil 1 10W/30 and left the same boat club at 50 PSI and when I got to the beer marina I was still running 50 PSI at 5000 RPM. Although this is not the technical stuff you may have wanted, it tells me that synthetics do not lose viscosity as they heat up. I would think that the film strength would be better because of this.
 
This discussion bothers me because it seems as if nearly all oil companies have admitted that synthetics are better in nearly all conditions. Most auto manufactures are now offering synthetics in their new cars off the line. That said, for the life of me, I cannot understand why anyone would ever suggest that synthetics are not the preferred choice for our older Corvettes, or at least a good option.

Sounds like you've already got your mind made up, and have made some broad assumptions and generalizations to help convince yourself that you're right.

I'm in the complete opposite camp by taking the position of 'show me proof that they're better' and have been asking this for decades. No luck so far.

Other than a longer change interval, I know of no practical, real world advantage. On the other hand I know of no disadvantage other than cost, so use what you like.
 
Sounds like you've already got your mind made up, and have made some broad assumptions and generalizations to help convince yourself that you're right.

I'm in the complete opposite camp by taking the position of 'show me proof that they're better' and have been asking this for decades. No luck so far.

Other than a longer change interval, I know of no practical, real world advantage. On the other hand I know of no disadvantage other than cost, so use what you like.

Give me some time to dig up old images I have of engines we tore down for rebuilds that had over 100k miles, ran syn. oil from day one. The parts had so little wear, for example cams and lifters were so clean we had to be very carefull not to mix up the new and old parts.

Thats just one example of how the newer oils are so much better than old dino oil.
 
Give me some time to dig up old images I have of engines we tore down for rebuilds that had over 100k miles, ran syn. oil from day one. The parts had so little wear, for example cams and lifters were so clean we had to be very carefull not to mix up the new and old parts.

Thats just one example of how the newer oils are so much better than old dino oil.

Don't bother, I've seen hundreds. I'll match them with pictures of engines that were clean after 100K+ miles on regular oil that also had little wear.

Show me hard impartial evidence of engine that lasted longer between overhauls because of synthetics.
 
It's not a scam, but it's of no real benefit in SBC or BBC engines, they last just as long with it as they do without it. Just because I used it at work for 31 years on gas turbines or Ferrari uses it on a V12 doesn't mean I also need it in my C3 or that it will be effective.

Your BW vs. colour TV analogy doesn't work. Feeding an 1080 HD signal to a standard 480 line screen would be a more appropriate comparison.
 
Sorry to the OP - going off on a tangent

It's not a scam, but it's of no real benefit in SBC or BBC engines, they last just as long with it as they do without it. Just because I used it at work for 31 years on gas turbines or Ferrari uses it on a V12 doesn't mean I also need it in my C3 or that it will be effective..

I just disagree.

High performance engines will stay together longer put out more power and survive more time at the limits with synthetic oil than conventional oil. More so of today’s engines that put out more power while running at coolant temps that would have been unacceptable of yesterdays SBC, and BBC engines.

Aside from better lubrication at the limits, for an older cars with higher mileage engines that may not be in the prime of their life but still get a good workout, its nice to know that it just takes a layer of oil a few molecules thick ( with less than 10 psi for every 1000 rpm ) to keep those giant bearings from spinning. (BBC). All for about another $25 per oil change. That’s the benefit. To me its cost effective.

NO – I don’t have a personal test mule engine on the dyno where I have conclusively verified that my self. Though I do have some engine building experience.

Like the Earth going around the sun, I can only assume that my limited experiance and observations plus the thousands of published reports and the overall acceptance of the technology behind synthetic oils are true.
 
I just disagree.

That's fine. Here's a quote from the OP:

(Note: Before you respond to this thread . . . please read at least the first paragraph.)

I would really appreciate it if someone could provide factual technical reasons for why people should not use synthetic oils in older car components (engine, tans, diff). I’m not all that interested in hearsay (i.e. he/she said, I heard, I was told no to . . . arguments). If you’re potential response uses one of those hearsay statements . . . please don’t respond to this thread, because there are plenty of hearsay threads already.


See ya :w
 
This isn't Vette connected but, Out banging around on my ATV with some friends, a rock broke an oil line, all but 4oz. drained out of a 64oz. system, I never knew it until I saw the oil in my truck bed the next day, it was a wet night. The machine made no noise, ran beautiful, even at WOT. I refilled it, and it still runs fine. If that was conventual oil the motor would have been fried. I'll stick with Mobil1.......I'll check my spelling next time too......
 
One of the greatest benefits of Synthetic oil is when the engine first starts up. It has consistant lubricating qualities throughout a wide range of temperatures. Petroleum oil does not lubricate thoroughly until it warms up.
Dyno testing snowmobile engines back in the late 70's when synthetic was in its infancy we found that it increased horsepower over conventional oil. It wasn't a significant increase but it was measureable and consistant.
If you have concerns about putting it in an older engine and having leaks then use a synthetic blend and you get the benifits of both.
 
Don't bother, I've seen hundreds. I'll match them with pictures of engines that were clean after 100K+ miles on regular oil that also had little wear.

Show me hard impartial evidence of engine that lasted longer between overhauls because of synthetics.


I heard that GM saw the same pics, and has started to factory fill the C6 with conventional. Gotta save money where they can to keep the Co. open!!
 
Sounds like you've already got your mind made up, and have made some broad assumptions and generalizations to help convince yourself that you're right.

I'm in the complete opposite camp by taking the position of 'show me proof that they're better' and have been asking this for decades. No luck so far.

Other than a longer change interval, I know of no practical, real world advantage. On the other hand I know of no disadvantage other than cost, so use what you like.

I know that I have read technical data that supports the fact that synthetic oil (Mobil 1) does NOT lose viscosity when it heats to normal engine operating temps, especially for extended periods. Like the previous post states, your oil pressure guage will tell you that. That is important too when outside temps routinely rise above the century mark as in where I live. And when the outside temp begin to fall below the freezing mark Mobil 1 synthetic (honestly don't know bout the rest-mobil 1 only syn. I've ever used) FLOWS much better than dino oil. I can HEAR the difference when first cranking engine after sitting outside (in cold) for awhile (first second or two). Over the life of any engine, I assume this would greatly impact how long that life would be....for me, the fact that it flows better when cold and does not break down easily when hot is enough for me.....there is another benny too. I read previous thread that it penetrates better.... :D
 

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